Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Flatlander on July 12, 2013, 01:25:04 am
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Hey Guys,
I recently made two bamboo backed ipi bows,straight limb, identical measurements, one at 46 @ 28 64" long, the other 50@28. The 46lb has no noticeable hand shock but the 50lb has some hand shock. The only difference is the quarter inch positive tiller on the 46lb, and the 50lb is an eighth of an inch positive tiller. Does anyone have any suggestions to help me fix this minor problem? Thanks
Flatlander.
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Post pics of both, braced, unbraced, back profile and full draw.
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What weight arrow?
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What kind of string are you using?
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Handshock is almost always something to do with the timing of the limbs eg. the speed at which they return to brace. If one is quicker then you will notice it. People go on about the tips of a bow being heavy as a cause of handshock but as long as your tips /outerlimbs aren't excessive then this is highly unlikely.
Have a really close look at the tiller, first is there any set concentrated in one spot on one of the limbs? If so correct it. However I personally would be looking at the amount of positive tiller. An 80 grit piece of sandpaper is good at correcting this sort of thing.
Even with very light arrows a perfectly tillered bow will just become a little noisier. Heavy arrows will hide handshock to a degree but it's a better thing to get rid off it rather than try to hide it. Using a very light string will simply up the noise level not give you handshock.
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Handshock is almost always something to do with the timing of the limbs eg. the speed at which they return to brace. If one is quicker then you will notice it. People go on about the tips of a bow being heavy as a cause of handshock but as long as your tips /outerlimbs aren't excessive then this is highly unlikely.
Have a really close look at the tiller, first is there any set concentrated in one spot on one of the limbs? If so correct it. However I personally would be looking at the amount of positive tiller. An 80 grit piece of sandpaper is good at correcting this sort of thing.
Even with very light arrows a perfectly tillered bow will just become a little noisier. Heavy arrows will hide handshock to a degree but it's a better thing to get rid off it rather than try to hide it. Using a very light string will simply up the noise level not give you handshock.
Right on! It's a timing thing. That 1/8" can make all the difference.
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Amen Mikekeswick +2
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Once again I agree with Mike!
Timing is the main cause of handshock....it can be hell to cure tho, especially on snakey and knotty staves:-(
That being said...I experience a lessing of handschok when I use FF strings and when I use heavy arrows....but timing is no. 1.
Cheers
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He said he had 'some' handshock and that its a minor problem. He could live with it as is and be just fine but if he happens to be shooting a light arrow and didn't happen to think about it then shooting a proper arrow just might solve his problem.
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Yes you're right it's timing so even if the tillers perfect but one of the tips weighs just alittle more than the other then your gonna feel hand shock Because its gonna take just a hair longer for the heavier tip to snap back So keep that in mind too
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if it's just a little bit, put some string silencers on that will take it out
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Why do we avoid tillering/timing bows properly? It's no harder to do it that way... in fact, considering the work involved in trying to mask the plethora of possible negative effects on the bow, the arrow, and the archer due to timing discrepencies, it's actually much easier to address the root cause from the get-go.
It's refreshing to see so many giving limb syncronization the importance it ultimately commands.
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gentlemen thanks for the great response. it was a timing problem .pealed alittle off the top limb a little from the tips and wa la shoots nice and soft now the 50 pounder is 48 but shooting nice . thank you bowyers!
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WOOOHOOOO!!!!!!
What a refreshing thread.
I cant tell you how many times ive had the same thoughts and opinions regarding "Handshock.It seems most wanna disguise it and make excuses for it,rather than fix the problem.
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oh boy ... after i fooled with the top limb put it on the tree and auhooo the top limb is pulling further than the bottom.so any ways i think after fiddling allday with both bows i think i have them pretty good now .one is 45 pound,right hand and the other is 47,left hand. i will get my wife to post some pics very soon ..thanks
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Why do we avoid tillering/timing bows properly? It's no harder to do it that way... in fact, considering the work involved in trying to mask the plethora of possible negative effects on the bow, the arrow, and the archer due to timing discrepencies, it's actually much easier to address the root cause from the get-go.
It's refreshing to see so many giving limb syncronization the importance it ultimately commands.
:)
Flatlander - cool! I'm glad they are right now. I find I use the last 4 inches of draw to address all these niggles. When you get a bow just right it's a great feeling ;)
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Me too on limb timing. Just finished a bow with big fat tips. Big double knots on the end of one limb so I had to stay a bit wide and kept the other tip wide to match. I was concerned, as were some of my compadres about the tip weight causing hand shock. None, and it's a bendy handle to boot. It's primarily limb timing IMO.
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Yes, but then when limb timing is off, heavy tips, or an overbuilt bow begin to exaggerate the felt recoil. The more the timing is off, and the more the bow is overbuilt, the more teeth it'll shake loose.