Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Blaflair2 on August 10, 2013, 10:50:55 pm
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Would TB 2 work for an all wood laminated bow? 3/8" red oak with 1/8 hickory backing. Already steam bent the red oak. Turned out ok. Laminated a 1/16" piece of cherry as underlay and to glue splinters back down. Still drying so I can't test how solid it is. My main concern is the backing. Is tight bond 2 strong enough so I don't have creep?
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I'm kinda just going for it
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I prefer tb3 cuz its abit more water resistant but i have had good luck with tb2... Neither has good gap filling qualities compared to epoxy tho. Nice thing bout tb2 is you get more work time before it sets and that is handy when tryin to fit odd pieces... Brian
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The glue will be plenty strong. Your problem is going to come from the hickory overpowering the red oak and causing it to chrysal, especially in a strained design like a static recurve. You will have to trap the back IMO if your bow is going to be successful. of course I may be wrong, but that's my guess.
Jon
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What is trap the back? And 1/8 hickory will over power the red oak? What other options do I have? I have curly maple, would that work better? It's a little less tensile isn't it? Or should I use another piece of red oak? Opinions?
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So these are my tips so far. Hickory backing I ripped a little less than 1/8 blew up in the last 6" or cutting. So backing only the working part of the bow. Undecided about working/non working handle. The hickory is gonna stop once near bends. Ill just fill it with overlay for tip or maybe leave it depending how it looks. I'm going to sand down backing as well once glued up. So not to over power the red oak. Board had jive grain until center. Then small kink and back to straight. Handle block will take care of that problem. In my head n e way. See n e thing wrong lets know would ya?
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Also this is my first time bending wood. Had slight blowout (lifter fibers). Hence the cherry underlay. The board is 64" and I'm looking for 50-55# @ 29-30". Is this possible? I'm sure gonna try!
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62" ntn with a stiff riser that is what at least 8" long, your losing a few inches cause of the curves, so your gonna have maybe 48" of working limb, if ya do a good job tillering you'll get a 24-25" draw if you have really good wood, good luck buddy I think your gonna need it
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62" ntn with a stiff riser that is what at least 8" long, your losing a few inches cause of the curves, so your gonna have maybe 48" of working limb, if ya do a good job tillering you'll get a 24-25" draw if you have really good wood, good luck buddy I think your gonna need it
Aren't there whole bows that short that work just fine? I mean, I know it'd be tough to get that to work at a decent weight, but that for each limb ???
Not that I have any experience with laminate bows ::)
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If you haven't already used the hickory then another piece of red oak with perfect grain would be a better backing. Hickory will of course work but you need to narrow the back compared to the belly (trapping). If the belly is 2 inches wide then make the backing 1 1/2 so the limb is a trapezoid in cross section instead of a rectangle.
29 - 30 inch draw is too much. I'd not go past 27 max.
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dude, a bendy handle selfbow can be 60" for a 28" draw.
reason- the whole dang bow works. handle, tips, every last bit...
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Would some one explain "trapping the back" please.
Thanks
Don
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trap is short for trapezoid, which is the shape of the cross section of the limb as opposed to rectangluar. It means that you narrow the back of the bow but leave the belly wide so that the belly has more surface area and is therefore proportionally stronger than the back in this case. The reason for it in this case is that hickory is much much stronger in tension than red oak is in compression. As the bow is bent the tension strong hickory overpowers the red oak who was struggling to do it's job of compression in the first place, causing it to chrysal. You avoid this by trapping, or narrowing the hickory so there is less of it there to overpower the red oak.
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huisme grab a 4' long stick and grab it in the center and you'll see how short the working limbs are,
squirell if you read his post he is adding a riser so it ain't a friggin' bendy handle, and he said a 29-30" draw no 28"
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Could I add a small riser and make it bendy?
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Could I add a small riser and make it bendy?
I think "incredibly small" is going to be your only reliable option here. I have a bow with 15" working limbs for a total of 30" of working wood, but it's only a thirty pound bow. My 42" short bow has no raiser what so ever, and a handle only slightly more narrow than the limbs to keep it at a decent weight at 25" draw.
I think it could work, but it'd be risky.
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I think I'm gonna glue something on. And thin it out as I need to. I'm still gonna go for it. Ill post more pics as I go. Who knows. Maybe it'll work. I also had the idea of ripping the red oak super thing and leaving the ends where it bends. Then putting more hickory for a belly and tiller from that. Does that sound a little too crazy?
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I gotta ask, how many other bows have you made? It sounds like you are trying to make a glass bow from marginal natural materials? If your gonna go for it its on you, but after many people with a ton of experience say its not gonna work, its probably not gonna work. Good luck.
Jon
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you can build up the handle area with cork or leather to fill your hand, not saying it wont work, but if it does go buy a lottery ticket >:D :laugh:
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I respect everyone's knowledge. I already started making it before my posts. So I gotta try and finish it. I've saw recurred board bows and figured I'd try. I think I'm going to rip the red oak and leave the static tips. And put a lamination of hickory on the belly along with the back. Then I can taper the hickory forum floor tiller and wish for the best. What do I have to lose, 15$ in wood and some time. Oh maybe an eye... It's a learning experience. I am no way trying to disrespect the advice from much more experienced bowyers. But when the hamster in my head gets on the wheel I gotta try it. Thanks again everyone and ill let u know what happens.
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I know what ya mean, most of us are kinda hard headed ::), good luck with it and do wear safety glasses, bub
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I know what ya mean, most of us are kinda hard headed ::), good luck with it and do wear safety glasses, bub
+1
Jon
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Would some one explain "trapping the back" please.
Thanks
Don
I already did.
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Would some one explain "trapping the back" please.
Thanks
Don
I already did.
I went back and found your post and between it and Weylin's post I got it sorted. Sometimes I'm a little thick.
Thanks
Don