Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: Matt G. on September 14, 2013, 08:10:30 am
-
I have cut many selfnocks but I am wondering what methods you all use to cut your notches for hafting? I'm using Hill cane and it is plugged. I know I have to fit the point as best I can and will use sand paper for that but the initial cut is what I'm asking about. Just use the same method as the selfnocks? Thank you in advance.
-
Bandsaw for me. Then finish to size with sandpaper or a rat tail depending on the stone thickness. Im a rookie, soooooo.
-
Bandsaw for me. Then finish to size with sandpaper or a rat tail depending on the stone thickness. Im a rookie, soooooo.
+1
-
Hacksaw or coping saw. Finish with sand paper. Sometimes I use small files then sandpaper.
Tracy
-
Thanks for the reply's folks. I'll do the hack saw route as I can't get my bandsaw to run.
-
Bandsaw for me. Then finish to size with sandpaper or a rat tail depending on the stone thickness. Im a rookie, soooooo.
+1
+2
-
I start with a single saw kerf(I use a bandsaw) and open it with a thin bladed knife and sand paper folded over and over as needed to get a good fit for the point. First I determing which way the point fits best so it lines up, front to back and side to side. Once I get the point so it sets straight in the hafting groove I heat the back end point with a candle and add pitch. I then drip pitch in the hafting groove and press the point in place, lining it up as best as I can. I then spin the arrow on its point on my finger tip to see if there is any wobble. If it does wobble I'll reheat the point and straighten it, let it cool some and spin again. I repeat this until the arrow spins true.
I now heat the joint to soften the pitch and smooth it out some with my fingers then add the sinew wrap. After the sinew is cured I spin the arrow again and if still true I'll seal the sinew wrap and go see how it shoots.
If the point ever becomes loose or misalligned all you have to do is heat the point until the pitch loosens some, re-align the point and let the pitch harden again.
-
Thanks for the great instructions Pat! I was going to ask those questions later. Lol! Going to do some test fitting on some scraps to get a feel for it before my pitch gets here. Thank you all for the help. Love this site!!!
-
I always drill a small hole where the bottom of the notch is to be then cut down either side with a coping saw. Finish with sandpaper. (seems to work pretty good) :)
-
Depending on how wide you want the nocks 2 or 3 hack saw blades taped together.
-
I finish with a file.
-
I always drill a small hole where the bottom of the notch is to be then cut down either side with a coping saw. Finish with sandpaper. (seems to work pretty good) :)
I also drill a hole with small round diamond hobby file but mine is drilled at the bottom of the nock after my initial cut.
The purpose is twofold !!! #1: It gives the split that you created nowhere to go by stopping the crack. I used it extensively while in the "Windshield Repair" business for 20+ years before filling the cracks with resin.
#2: If the hole is sized properly it should create the perfect size for your string serving and give you equivalently a snap on nock. Your string groove should be snug but not "tight", just a shade smaller than the hole at the bottom.
Lastly I taper and round the edges of the nock with a small single cut file and sandpaper before wrapping with sinew, staining, and sealing.
-
Great tips guys. Thank you. I've done quite a few self nocks and am getting ready to do my first point hafting. Quick question. Does it matter on Hill cane the point orientation? Nodes are on too and borrow of the shaft. I know it matters on on wood shafts but what about on cane?
PS I like the tip on drilling a hole on the nock end.
-
Should add that the point end is a hair oblonged. Kinda looks like this
0 My thought is to go with the wider part so there's less drag at the transition but what do I know? Lol!
-
I have yet to try this as I use a small folding saw to cut mine. This is from the Biskinik -Choctaw new paper April 2012 issue. Ed
-
Matt, I cut the slot for the self nock and the point the same direction. I really don't think it matters.
-
Thanks guys ! I ended up going longways with the oblonged part. Hope to start getting it set done time this week.
Pat it ended up opposite of the nock.
-
Matt, are you testing for the stiff side of the shaft? That side should go against the bow.
-
I sure do Pat. Leaf scars on top and bottom and stiff side against the bow. Thanks for looking out for me. ;D
-
This is how I cut a notch with a stone tool:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AP6yWJx0de0
-
Got it hafted. Still need to deal the sinew after it cures. Feel free to critique it!
A special thanks to Charlie Pat and Eddie!!!
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb472/mwgtrad/1380278142.jpg)
-
Got a side view? :)
-
I'll get one when I get home from work.
-
Good looking head and hafting job Matt. What will you be shooting it in? Art
-
Nice job Matt did you use any hide glue or just sinew?
-
Here's the pics from the sides
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb472/mwgtrad/1380320658.jpg)
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb472/mwgtrad/1380320698.jpg)
I traded for the head and I'll be shooting out of my Hill bow and my Bamboo and Ipe bow from Stringstretcher. Hopefully into a deer. I haven't sealed the sinew yet incase I needed to change it or add more plus I want the wrap to dry completely. It's a pretty smooth transition from stone to shaft.
Let me know what you all think. Thank you!
-
Perfect! :)
-
Thank you Jackcrafty! It spins like a top. Last question. Should I seal the pitch along with the sinew wrap?
-
Sealing the whole thing is a good tactic but you have to be careful if you seal it with something that will melt easily (like in a hot car) and get really sticky. I prefer to seal with beeswax or lanolin when I'm using primitive materials
I also seal with pitch varnish (PatB's formula) but only in cool weather.