Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Blaflair2 on October 07, 2013, 02:08:39 pm
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So how would I go about heat treat bending/straightening? All at once? If I make a form to bend some will that straighten the limbs twist?
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Depending on the severity of the twist, you can simply toast it and clamp into reflex as you move along. If the twist seems severe enough? Get a bunch of it out first. Then come back and temper it in a day or three.
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It's this stupid HHB stave lol. One limb slightly a twists from the fade just about. I was thinking if I made a form a did it all at once I could tweak it as I go? I planned on making a back to the form so I could cover all my axis. Something I can block against to line it up better. Thinking of a 5 curve or recurve. Natural reflex from the handle. Almost equal. It's is 68" long and 2" wide
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Adding a back is good, but captures heat also. It does allow the blank to be straightened in both directions, and I like that. I prefer to apply all my heat at once, regardless of amount. One good cookin' is better then four small coookin's in my book.
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Ok thanks. Hopefully I can make it work
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You can use small wedges to correct twists as you go out each limb to straighten it and/or add reflex. If the twist is not too bad you don' have to do anything with it. Wood bows can take some twist and still shoot well.
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I'll try and post a pic tonight. Is veg oil ok to put on for dry heat?
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Yes, veg oil is what I use(actually olive oil). The oil will prevent it from scorching. If you plan on tempering the belly no oil is needed. Do give your bow a few days after heating before stressing it.
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Doesn't the olive oil affect how well the finish sticks?
Don
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Don, by the time I scrape the belly to reach tiller I have eliminated the oil in the wood. If I plan on backing the bow, either with sinew or skins or wood I wash it with Dawn dish soap and rince with boiling water. That will get the oil out.
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Thanks Pat
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So if I'm tempering while bending don't use oil?
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correct!
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Ok thanks again Pat!
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So this is the twist in talking about. I'm thinking it'll work its self out during the reflexing and bending. Thanks again guys
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The pix look like poop
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;D you said poop ;D
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I use a form also,I try and get it all at once if it ant to bad,like Pat said you can use a tapered shim between the back of the bow and the form and clamp at the top or bottom to over bend a little to get bad propeller out,just don't tighten the clamps to tight or you can mar the back of the bow.Some propeller won't hunt as long as the string will stay on but I usuall try and get it out,just because it is usually pretty easy to do, make tillering easier to see ,so why leave it. ;) :)
Pappy
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Bruce...why did you post pics of poop? ??? No one wants to see that crap around here ::) :laugh: :laugh:
To add on to the form and wood wedges,use soft wood for your wedges...and remember guys he's making a recurve so most if not all of the twist needs removed otherwise twist and recurves don't mix to well together...on a straight tipped bow sure,no biggy..but not so much with a recurve...and me personally when I choose to make a recurve its gonna be from a good clean(mostly) STRAIGHT stave(lil to zero twist)...it just makes things easier to line up and not have to fight with IMHO
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Very very true Hawk. :)
Pappy
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I'm trying to figure out how to do the recurves and the reflexing at once. Any sketches for a quick caul? Much appreciated
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Recurves and reflexing cant happen at the same time in my opinion, not a true static anywho. get the bow reflexed and straightened, then add the statics. You can check out my Hackberry static build along if you want to see my static forms.
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Ok. That's what I thought but didn't see it in my head