Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: Kegan on December 06, 2007, 09:12:07 pm
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Well, I found some old triangles cut from an old circular saw blade, along with the rest of the old blade. There were two triangles cut out (I don't know what they were for), but they're 2 1/2" long, 1 1/4" wide after a little bit o' grinding. Thing is, Penssylvania state law doesn't like side notches on broadheads, and these pieces don't have enough on them to put a tang on. I was thinking about a ferrule, but couldn't find any 3/8" metal tubing. I was also thinking maybe put the notches on the butt end, but I've tried this before and I just couldn't tie them properly (way too loose).
Any ideas? Maybe something I could use as a ferrule, or perhaps just gluing/epoxy'ing them in and wrapping below might work? It's good metal, and I don't want to waste these pieces.
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Kegan
Most laws don't allow a barbed point but never heard anything about side notched points.........Looks like if the blade was sharpened the full length of the sides then it shouldn't matter about slots cut into the side.........Make one and send a picture to the law enforcement div of your DNR.
Robert
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Just shoot something with it.The point will probally come off anyway ;)But like WVA said never heard of no notches.
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You could make something like these
(http://marc.stoneflake.net/Arrows,%20Quivers%20and%20More/Broadheads.jpg)
They don't have notches on the cutting edge
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Mark:
Those are some good looking heads.
The Hole?? Is it for weight reduction
or to aid in tying the head on? Or Both??
Do you have a photo of one mounted on a arrow?
Thanks
David
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Kegan
Most laws don't allow a barbed point but never heard anything about side notched points.........Looks like if the blade was sharpened the full length of the sides then it shouldn't matter about slots cut into the side.........Make one and send a picture to the law enforcement div of your DNR.
Robert
State law requires, "one continues cutting edge from the tip to the end of the head". So, notches are a no-no.
Marc- You think riveting the head on would hold? The whole in the head made me think about Hill riveting ferrule heads on. Just cut out the middle man?
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Made a broadhead once with a ferrule. I simply glued a field point onto a screw-in adapter, and chucked it up in a drill. Then I took a metal file and ground it down to shape (mainly to reduce weight). Once I had the shape I wanted, I used dremel to notch the point end, to fit the blade into. I soldered the blade into the ferrule. I shot the heck out of that arrow, and the solder finally cracked. I think it was strong enough to hunt with though. It was quite a process though and I've only done it once. If I can find that arrow, I will send a pic of the point.
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I did basically the same thing as Juniper. When i cut the slot for the head, I used pliers to pich the slot so it would be a tight fit, and used JB weld to hold it all together. I think I need to lighten the load or use a different design. Mine tipped the scale at 250 grains. I want to get them closer to 200.
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I've just cut out a triangle, cut a slot in the shaft and glued it in with epoxy (after sharpening, of course). You need a strong glue because it's harder for glue to hold when there ain't no wrapping to help it. Afterwards, I wrap below the point with sinew.
Sean
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kegan marcs is set up so he can screw it down to the table to sharpen it. small holes drilled into the head will suffice as a wrapping point though. that way you dont need side notches. peace
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Thanks guys for all the advice! I drilled a whole in one of the 1/4" for them bottom for a 1/8" rivet. Holds. TIGHTLY. Just gotta figure out how to prevent the wood from splitting/smashing too badly ???. If not, I'll probabaly just drill nothces inside (like Jamie said) and then glue it in tight with epoxy or somehting (like 1/2 Primtive). I haven't got any feild points to glue in. That would be sweet though :)!
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How about in between the cutting the slot and applying epoxy, drill a 1/16" or 1/8" hole through the shaft as if you were going to rivet, but coat a steel or brass pin with epoxy and slide it in the hole. It would be strong and less likely than rivets to split the shaft. Then you can clamp the shaft down and wait for it to dry, trim the pin and shoot.
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When I mount a trade point, or stone for that matter, I prefer using pitch glue to set the point in. I make sure the arrow spins well than wrap with sinew or silk thread. I check the spin again and can adjust with a little heat. By wrapping for 1" or so behind the head you will help prevent the shaft from splitting on impact.
One hole drilled on either side of the shaft will give you another place to wrap where the shaft tapers down to the point and it will add more stability. Pat
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Hey Pat, where do you get your pitch at or from? Auggie.
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Auggie, you can nab pitch from wounds on pine or spruce trees. Heat it up enough to melt it and mix in some powdered charcoal until it's the consistancy you want. Some people put some beeswax and fiberous stuff like rabbit or deer pellets in there, too.
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Kegan
According to the digest, it says that the edge must be in the same plane. To me that means no barbs but I would contact your local C.O. and get his official ruling. If he gives you the go ahead just get his name in case another officer gives you any grief.
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just my thoughts and bad pics
Bill
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Now Im gonna have to find some pine trees, dont know of too many around here.