Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: jkyarcher on December 28, 2013, 07:02:31 pm
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I have a couple of questions about arrow building and not enough experience to answer them.
I was reading the current PA issue and there is the article about barreled or tapered arrows. I was wondering if this is worth the time and trouble. If I used store bought arrow shafts spined to a certain stiffness and tapered them would it change the spine or would it stay about the same.
Also what is a good way to cut broadhead grooves and nocks so they are straight?
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Yes you can taper doweled shafts and IMO it does make a difference in their paradox and flight. I have tapered the rear 9" of some poplar shafts and like the results. I've not barrel tapered shafts but from what I understand about barreling is it maintains the spine(mostly) but drops the physical weight. I think it is used mostly for flight shooting.
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I was just reading about this in my new TBBlll (Christmas present ;D ;D) and got to wondering. Would using a natural stick and using the thin end for the nock end have the same effect as tapering the nock end? Maybe not enough taper?
Don
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Some natural materials have a serious taper to them.
Wild cherry shoots can be almost 3/8th inch on t (Christmas present ) and got to wondering. Would using a natural stick and using the thin end for the nock end have the she fat end, and only 1/4th on the other(like 30" shoot).
'boo can taper something rediculous too-
I have some that goes from 1" to about 1/4th inch in about 5 feet.
I don't think too little taper would be a problem... but consistant tapering might.
whenever I make shoot shafts, the fat end is the nock.
Never tried barrel tapering.
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Don, using shoots and cane for arrows made me think about tapering doweled shafts. The same principles apply. With the taper of shoots and cane you can reduce the effective spine of an arrow by 10#. I think you get a quicker recovery and better clearance from shoots, cane and tapered shafting. Most of my sourwood shafts and cane shafts are about 3/8" it the point end and 5/16" at the nock for a 29" to 30" shaft.
If you and jkyarcher are interested I'll post pics of my tapering jig.
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I would like to see some tapering jig photos!
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Here are a few pics. I'll try to explain it as I go. It is basically pretty simple.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/Taperingtoolimprovedagain004.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/PatBNC/media/Taperingtoolimprovedagain004.jpg.html)
this is the jig. The side rails are adjustable for different diameters.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/Taperingtoolimprovedagain003.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/PatBNC/media/Taperingtoolimprovedagain003.jpg.html)
the wing nuts are for adjusting the widths. The wood peg set in is the stop(for 10" taper) the holes in the bottom are for the sawdust to fall through. The abrasion on the rails is a 120grt sanding belt cut to size and added on with double sided carpet tape. Both the sanding belt and double sided tape are from ACE Hardware
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/Taperingtoolimprovedagain001.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/PatBNC/media/Taperingtoolimprovedagain001.jpg.html)
I added these different diameter dowels to use for setting up the jig. I believe they are 5/16", 11/32" and 3/8". they fit loose where they are and fit the holes down the center of the base where the saw dust goes.
I chuck the dowel in my electric drill and spin the shaft pretty fast as I slowly push the shaft into the jig and move it back and forth as you go in.. Don't force it and take it slow and easy.
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Nice post Pat !
Good pics and nice tapering tool !
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Guy, I made it with one 1x4x3' Lowe's red oak board...plus a few dowel scraps. ;)
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Homemade tools guy here, not a spammer 8) (PROOF: 350+ forums that know us (http://www.homemadetools.net/links))
Just a note that we featured your excellent arrow tapering jig in our HomemadeTools.net newsletter, fully credited to you of course, and linked to this discussion: http://mailchi.mp/buildthreads/shredder-yardstick-food-plot-tools
I hope we've been able to send you lots of traffic. Cheers. (https://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/hmt-forum/hat_tip.gif)
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I can't take credit for the idea but I appreciate you passing it on...and giving me credit. :OK
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Pat,
Nice jig, would it also work for sizing shoot shafts shaft? Might save a lot of sanding and scraping by hand. Can you post a pic showing it in operation? I don't quite see the reason for all the holes, unless they are for gradual reduction for each size shaft. Congratulations on the "Off site" recognition! Thanks, Hawkdancer
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The pics from Photobucket won't load for me :( Even after disabling all my blockers
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You are the arrow shaft man Pat.Made a similar shaft taper jig too.Not as nice as yours though.
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Well documented, Pat. Even I can understand how it works. 8)
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The holes in the bottom are to let out the dust while you are tapering the shafts.
I chuck the shaft is an electric drill and work it back and forth slowly until it hits the stop.
You can size shoots with it but if they are thick you have to go slow.
I used small sanding belt(120 I think)and cut strips to fit and attach with double sided carpet tape.
I don't have pics of me working with the jig.
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Pats rig works real good .....I've got one just like it.............only issue with it is it wears out the sand paper in one spot ..... centerline of the shaft.
DBar