Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: toomanyknots on January 06, 2014, 01:12:37 pm
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Here's some english style arrows, 35lb spine for a 50lb bow I made for the guy that sells me leather. He is a re-enactor I believe, so I thought he would like these better than the carbon arrows he was using on his fiberglass bow. They are ash, 125 grain field points, with two white and one natural turkey fletchings at 6 1/2" long, and finished with tru oil. I went over the servings once in clear wood glue, and then again in tru oil with a brush again. These are the first proper arrows I have made with shafts I turned on a router jig I made in this thread: https://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,43769.0/nowap.html
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/First%20arrows%20from%20router%20jig%20shafts/DSCN3834.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/First%20arrows%20from%20router%20jig%20shafts/DSCN3834.jpg.html)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/First%20arrows%20from%20router%20jig%20shafts/DSCN3823.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/First%20arrows%20from%20router%20jig%20shafts/DSCN3823.jpg.html)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/First%20arrows%20from%20router%20jig%20shafts/DSCN3822.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/First%20arrows%20from%20router%20jig%20shafts/DSCN3822.jpg.html)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/First%20arrows%20from%20router%20jig%20shafts/DSCN3840.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/First%20arrows%20from%20router%20jig%20shafts/DSCN3840.jpg.html)
Here is the fletching jig I used to fletch the longer fletchings, I tried to copy richard head longbows big jig basically, but used a wooden clamp for the fletchings. I put a spring clamp on it to hold the feather when gluing or sanding the bottom flat, it works really good actually for reducing the bottom of feathers, I used a file first and then switch to a sanding block with the feather clamped.
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Fletching%20Jig/DSCN3848.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/Fletching%20Jig/DSCN3848.jpg.html)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Fletching%20Jig/DSCN3849.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/Fletching%20Jig/DSCN3849.jpg.html)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Fletching%20Jig/DSCN3851.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/Fletching%20Jig/DSCN3851.jpg.html)
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/Fletching%20Jig/DSCN3850.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/Fletching%20Jig/DSCN3850.jpg.html)
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Fine looking arrows.
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Nice looking arrows.
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Those look great,................................(and please take this in the helpful spirit it is given) If the pictures are telling the whole story, the grain looks dangerously bad for arrows. There appears to be a huge amount of run off . If these are strictly for decorative purposes ,it doesn't matter. But those look too good not to shoot! The way the grain is oriented , when the shaft breaks ,the piece being pushed by the string will make a lance that will be driven into the bow hand instead of being forced up over the front of the broken shaft. (unless he's a lefty)Take a dowel that you've finished that has similar grain , and give it a good flex. I think you will find it gives up surprisingly quick.
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Thanks guys. Lost arrow, thank you for the advice, the grain wasn't perfect in the ash I ripped these from.
Edit: And speaking of that, how would you position the run off of a shaft optimally?
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so that on the top of the arrow as it sits on the shelf of the bow is pointing away from the shooter.
Russ
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so that on the top of the arrow as it sits on the shelf of the bow is pointing away from the shooter.
Russ
Okee Dokey, thank you!
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Ok, I think I got yall now. So the run off (if there is run off) should be like this:
(http://i1203.photobucket.com/albums/bb392/toomany7/correctgrain.jpg) (http://s1203.photobucket.com/user/toomany7/media/correctgrain.jpg.html)
Just don't look right though? haha
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Correct.
Envision, if you will, that at the moment of release, the force of the string on the nock, breaks the arrow along the grain - - the back end of the now broken arrow will go up and away from the bow hand.
If the grain is reversed, the back end of the broken arrow will go down, into the bow hand - - ouch!!!!!
Russ
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Beautiful work...
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Correct.
Envision, if you will, that at the moment of release, the force of the string on the nock, breaks the arrow along the grain - - the back end of the now broken arrow will go up and away from the bow hand.
If the grain is reversed, the back end of the broken arrow will go down, into the bow hand - - ouch!!!!!
Russ
TOTALLY got you now! That makes perfect sense. Thank you for explaining it. I've heard this before, but I never really got it, thank you, much appreciated!
Beautiful work...
Thank you, I have been practicing ms-paint for years, I am studying the great ms-painters right now in school, some day I hope to become an ms-paint master... oh wait, you were probably talking about the arrows, ( ;D). J/k, thank you Burchett!
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Instead of filing and sanding the quill of the arrow while its in your clamp you can put it on a belt sander for just a second or two with a fine belt. I use a similar clamp made from scraps for sanding them. Just be careful. It can eat a feather up pretty fast.
Your arrows look very classy. Nice job on them.
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Great looking arrows. I struggle with getting the spacing even on my feather wraps. Especially on my hunting arrows. I just don't have the patience to be that neat on something I'm going to loose or break.
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Great looking arrows. I struggle with getting the spacing even on my feather wraps. Especially on my hunting arrows. I just don't have the patience to be that neat on something I'm going to loose or break.
When I do the whipping, I do them at night after I am done with everything I am going to do that day, with me and my wife watching something on the tv. I use a needle, not threaded to the string, but just to poke the feather apart where I think it is evenly spaced for the thread to go, and pop the thread in. If it is not evenly spaced, I will pull it out, and use the needle over just a bit to separate it again, than try again, etc. Richard Head longbows has a video on youtube with Richard Heads son whipping an arrow super fast, I don't know if I could get a hang of doing it that way though.
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Fast fletch binding just takes a bit of practice. I used to do it with a needle but gave up as it's too much faffing about for me! Once you find a method that works for you, you can get a lot done pretty quickly.
Anyway, those are beautiful arrows Daniel. I love ash shafts - especially when finished with just oil as it brings the grain out superbly. Very nice work, and would be a more than acceptable set for a warbow shoot! Just need to make 'em half an inch thick now and put some hand forged heads on ;)
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Fast fletch binding just takes a bit of practice. I used to do it with a needle but gave up as it's too much faffing about for me! Once you find a method that works for you, you can get a lot done pretty quickly.
Anyway, those are beautiful arrows Daniel. I love ash shafts - especially when finished with just oil as it brings the grain out superbly. Very nice work, and would be a more than acceptable set for a warbow shoot! Just need to make 'em half an inch thick now and put some hand forged heads on ;)
Thank you Will!
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If it's any help (I notice on a couple of yours you can see the hard edge of the feather quill even underneath the wrapping and that can catch the back of your hand or just generally reduce aerodynamics a touch (not important on hunting/re-enactment arrows but more so on distance/flight shooting with warbows if you made them for the bigger bows!)) I use a hot piece of steel like a knife held in a flame for a few minutes to burn the feather quill down into the arrow shaft at a taper. It seems to work a bit better than just cutting them at an angle and gives a really neat, flush finish. Once the binding is put on, you can't see the end of the quill at all.
I think for my next set I'm going to copy yours - I really love the look of the natural barred turkey against the two white feathers.
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Great looking arrows. The wraps look great. I bought a 1/4# spool of brown silk thread at a yard sale to use to wrap feathers. Reading the posts sure helps with how to do that.
Your needle and thread and WILLS and his hot knife to taper the quill.!!!!!
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Hey Daniel...heres one of my war arrows. your superb arras made me go and look at mine to see how misaligned my whipping was. I promised myself to make another set after xmas with perfect whipping..i may use a needle. oh and the reason the horn inserts are so black is because i used a texta before i oiled them up. Makes them stand out.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag67/archeress64/My%20arrows/IMG_2171_zps04ce87bc.jpg) (http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/archeress64/media/My%20arrows/IMG_2171_zps04ce87bc.jpg.html)
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(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag67/archeress64/My%20arrows/IMG_2172_zpsa3b9d078.jpg) (http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/archeress64/media/My%20arrows/IMG_2172_zpsa3b9d078.jpg.html)
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I love your little initial Kel. I still haven't come up with something neat and tidy that stands out for shoots.
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Archeress, very nice arrows and I really like your footings. Guess I am going to try to do a wrap after all these photo's.
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Thanks guys...i put the pics up to show the comparison between knots and mine. Daniels are awesomely perfect..my whipping is not quite there yet.
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Forgot to ask. How do you cut the slot for your footings?
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believe it or not i use the tile saw that i use for the nocks. Yes it is a deep cut and can be fraught with mistakes but i was just careful and slow. I plan on buying one of those metal block jigs from richard head longbows. make life easier.
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Thanks guys...i put the pics up to show the comparison between knots and mine. Daniels are awesomely perfect..my whipping is not quite there yet.
Your whipping looks perfect! Very nice arrows! I think yours looks better than mine, and nice inserts too. I took a tip from big bow brum on youtube and use some hacksaw blades glued together to cut my inserts. I screw them up all the time too, it is hard to get them perfect! I wanna get my hands on one of richard head longbows jigs too, :).
If it's any help (I notice on a couple of yours you can see the hard edge of the feather quill even underneath the wrapping and that can catch the back of your hand or just generally reduce aerodynamics a touch (not important on hunting/re-enactment arrows but more so on distance/flight shooting with warbows if you made them for the bigger bows!)) I use a hot piece of steel like a knife held in a flame for a few minutes to burn the feather quill down into the arrow shaft at a taper. It seems to work a bit better than just cutting them at an angle and gives a really neat, flush finish. Once the binding is put on, you can't see the end of the quill at all.
I think for my next set I'm going to copy yours - I really love the look of the natural barred turkey against the two white feathers.
I'll try that out next time, thanks for the tip!
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Tmk those are some beauty's for sure!
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au contraire..yours are perfect..love them.
here is what i use to cut nocks and horn slots.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag67/archeress64/My%20arrows/IMG_2251_zps1e796829.jpg) (http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/archeress64/media/My%20arrows/IMG_2251_zps1e796829.jpg.html)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag67/archeress64/My%20arrows/IMG_2252_zpsbf8a73a1.jpg) (http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/archeress64/media/My%20arrows/IMG_2252_zpsbf8a73a1.jpg.html)
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yes nick B does some great instructional vids
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au contraire..yours are perfect..love them.
here is what i use to cut nocks and horn slots.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag67/archeress64/My%20arrows/IMG_2251_zps1e796829.jpg) (http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/archeress64/media/My%20arrows/IMG_2251_zps1e796829.jpg.html)
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag67/archeress64/My%20arrows/IMG_2252_zpsbf8a73a1.jpg) (http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/archeress64/media/My%20arrows/IMG_2252_zpsbf8a73a1.jpg.html)
Well I'm still sure your 1/2" shafts would kick my 11/32" target shafts A$$ still, ;D. I use a saw blade just like that for doing nocks in the horn tips of bows, but it always leaves scratches that are hard to burnish away. It does cut super fast though. I always use it for temporary nocks as well, before I put the horn nocks on.
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hmm..never thought of it that way...i might also try the multi layered hacksaw blades
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Nice looking arrows!!! I like the fletching jig..
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hmm..never thought of it that way...i might also try the multi layered hacksaw blades
After trying both, I favor the layered hacksaw blades myself.
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Nice looking arrows!!! I like the fletching jig..
Thank you!
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well i thought i had seen your arrows before....they turned up on my FB page courtesy of Ari Laakso.
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If I may throw a spanner in the works - the Richard Head jig doesn't work! I had to send back three before I got a decent one as they were all badly cut and not straight! I pinned him down at the NLHF and he was disappointed himself in the quality. I use a tile saw as well for my horn inserts and it chews up the jig so easily that after 12 arrows the slots are jagged and it's easier doing it free hand.
Here's a couple pics of my attempts at EWBS liverys
Goose fletchings (kinda chunky quill as they were my early attempts at grinding full feathers)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb363/Will_Sherman/Bows%20and%20Arrows/IMAG0691_zps5f3abf37.jpg)
And Turkey (http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb363/Will_Sherman/Bows%20and%20Arrows/IMAG0397_zps9628e373.jpg)
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Very noice wills...we are a clever bunch :) I bought a steel block jig from nidderdale..just for nocks on 11/32 arrows. i love it...havent experimented with the longer slot..i may work out a way to make my own.
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I was going to mention Nidderdale - I think Richard (the guy who owns Nidderdale) makes very good stuff. I bought a jig from him that runs a drill down the center of an arrow shaft so you can insert little steel rods to bring the weight up - very handy and very well made.
I've seen his nock cutting jig (did you get the one that you use with a little drill first?) and it looks pretty good.
I've just ordered some natural barred turkey feathers because I really like Daniel's fletching. Hopefully I'll get somewhere close to his!
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yes..but i still didnt understand the idea of drilling a hole into the side of the shaft?. i read the instructions yet continued to have blonde moments.
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My very first bought set of arrows have a drill hole at the end of the nock slot. i dont see an advantage in doing this?. the hole is slightly wider than tha actual slot width so wondered if the string would be affected upon release.
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I've got a feeling it's designed to give you that "click" you get with plastic nocks. The slot is tight on the string, but the drilled hole is slightly loose, so the arrow is unrestricted but won't fall off. That's just a guess though.
Or it was just his way of making the whole thing easier, and he approached it from inside out.
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well i thought i had seen your arrows before....they turned up on my FB page courtesy of Ari Laakso.
You mean mine? They might of made it there via the fellow I gave these to, I think he said he put them up there. I am not on facebook myself, I think facebook is evil, :).
If I may throw a spanner in the works - the Richard Head jig doesn't work! I had to send back three before I got a decent one as they were all badly cut and not straight! I pinned him down at the NLHF and he was disappointed himself in the quality. I use a tile saw as well for my horn inserts and it chews up the jig so easily that after 12 arrows the slots are jagged and it's easier doing it free hand.
Here's a couple pics of my attempts at EWBS liverys
Goose fletchings (kinda chunky quill as they were my early attempts at grinding full feathers)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb363/Will_Sherman/Bows%20and%20Arrows/IMAG0691_zps5f3abf37.jpg)
And Turkey (http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb363/Will_Sherman/Bows%20and%20Arrows/IMAG0397_zps9628e373.jpg)
Super nice arrows! Thanks for the tip on the jig. You think it would work with a hacksaw better?
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Yeah it might well do. Probably, actually, as the tile saw chews it up as it's abrasive all round while a saw obviously only cuts bottom edge. I could never get to grips with the numerous saw blades!
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However.....a well worn tile saw is pretty good. I bought a new tile saw blade and yes you are right..very jagged..but i am wearing it in on other woods and metals first.
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Very nice arrow work Knots, finely crafted beauties.