Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: Bombadil072 on January 18, 2014, 03:46:42 pm
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I did a cursory search, but I couldn't readily find the answer to this question? How long should the feathers be when fletching for arrows used with a self-bow? I am shooting a vine maple bow that pulls 55# at 28 inches. I have been advised to try arrows around 29 inches with 125 grain field points. I am working with the Home Depot bamboo guidelines for shafting material. I have arrows that use 5 1/2 inch fletching, but I don't know why that length was chosen.
Who can help out with how and why to use a specific length?
Thanks,
Jerome
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Generally a heavier arrow will require a long fletch for stable flight. Also the point weight is a factor in length...ie heavier point, longer fletch. This has been my experience in arrow building. My steel pointed, 30" arrows I use a 5" shield cut fletch. Although conversely I have been using a 5 1/2" fletch on the stone tipped arrows I have been making lately.
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Ideally you want fletching to be as small as you can get away with and still get good arrow flight. I have always used 5 1/2", high back fletching but some use 5" and some smaller. I think 5" to 5 1/2" would be a good place to start. As far as fletching patterns I like more traditional styles and burn my own pattern now.
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I'm with Pat B on everything, but I cut my feathers with scissors.
DBar
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Thanks for the advice. I was currently looking to purchase pre-cut feathers online, and didn't know if I could get away with 4 inches. I think I will try 5 and see how they fly.
Eventually, I want to work on cutting my own, but I am taking baby steps for now.
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I use a Chopper and make 5 1/2" high=back Shields. Has always worked well for Me - Bob.
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I use a lot of 4" now. I was strictly a 5" guy for 12-15 years. But after playing around, I cant see a difference with 4" and I get a lot more feathers from a wing.
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Depends....if you are shooting field points you can use smaller feathers. If shooting big broadheads then you need to keep them stable with the rear guidance system. Most bows will brace around 6 inches so you can shoot a 6 inch feather without getting into the handle. Also mentioned is shooting a heavy point. The heaver or more the FOC is on your arrow the more the feathers are effective and therefore you can go a little smaller feather size....Good Luck
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most of my warbow shafts have fletching that are anywhere from 6-9 inches and cut nice and low.
my arrows for my #60 recurve has fletching ranging from 5-8 inches depending on the arrow and head
i try to keep my fletching cut low and long and i've been very happy with the results
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I use a lot of 4" now. I was strictly a 5" guy for 12-15 years. But after playing around, I cant see a difference with 4" and I get a lot more feathers from a wing.
Pearl,
I think your years of experience at tuning arrows to your bow has help you in that decision. I'm just now getting to those thoughts with a few of my arrows. but for beginner arrowsmiths 5" I think helps the learning curve and produces good flight for marginal spined arrows for a specific bow.
Just IMHO....
DBar
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Awesome thoughts! I had read somewhere else that the fletching does more to stabilize the arrow the longer it is in flight...so, by that rationale, shooting field points at 30-50 yards, I might not notice as much difference between 4-6 inches?
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I use a Chopper and make 5 1/2" high=back Shields. Has always worked well for Me - Bob.
Also, what do you mean by high-back shields? Are they taller at the widest (back) end?
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Yep, that's right a taller fletch off of the arrow shaft.
DBar
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My question is if you go for a 6 - 6 1/2" fletching, your brace height would have to be higher. That would impede bow performance correct...... ???
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My question is if you go for a 6 - 6 1/2" fletching, your brace height would have to be higher. That would impede bow performance correct...... ???
It definitely shortens your effective draw length. But, it could increase poundage a bit.
DBar
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If you want to cut back on feather length, add tip weight or add to the helical. The feathers are just a "drag" so the front of the arrow stays ahead of the back, they don't actually guide the arrow. On short feathers I try to keep them as close to the nock as I can and still get my fingers around the string. Not every arrow I have has 4" feathers, but Im getting more and more piled up. Broad head flight is about spine and tip weight, no different than what field tips require.
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Off the subject a bit.... but, adding weight to the nock end of the arrow will stiffen the shafts spine. as adding weight to the point weakens the spine.
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If you want to cut back on feather length, add tip weight or add to the helical....
Ok, so what the heck does "helical" mean in this context?
I just looked at this and decided the question is silly. Do you mean increasing the amount of spiral around the shaft that each individual feather has, or by adding a fourth feather? That feels like it explains my thought process better...
Jerome
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Off the subject a bit.... but, adding weight to the nock end of the arrow will stiffen the shafts spine. as adding weight to the point weakens the spine.
I'm ok with off topic in this case. Does it literally make the arrow stiffer, or does it simply affect the flight path as if the arrow were stiffer?
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There are two different types of spine. True/actual spine of the shaft and dynamic arrow spine which is how the finished arrow acts when shot through a specific bow. Why do I say specific? because a single arrow will shoot differently from different bows even rated at the same poundage. yade, yade yade,
Boy I'm getting wordy........ :)
Actually, to answer your question....yes, it effects the flight path of the arrow. Their is a lot of variables for good arrow flight if you look at it technically. But lately, for a 50#-28" draw bow (typical) all I've have been doing is cutting some cane using a 3/8" open wrench as a gage for the big end thickness, making some arrows about 32" lg with 16 penny duplex nail as points and 3 feathers 5" lg for fletching and they have been flying great!!!
You can read all you want about making good arrows but the best way to learn is to make some. I have made hundreds of arrows some good, some bad.
Have fun and make some arra's ............... let us know how is going.
Till next time,
DBar
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My question is if you go for a 6 - 6 1/2" fletching, your brace height would have to be higher. That would impede bow performance correct...... ???
not that I've noticed, most of my feathers are on the bow before I draw but they aren't when I loose the string and I don't change brace height for feathers
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Damnit bub! Quit typing your text inside the brackets when you quote! Keep it up and Im gonna fly out to NoCal and "fix" it myself pal!
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Just remember about feathers... the longer they are, the taller they are, the further back they are on the shaft and the more they are off-set, the more steerage correction they will provide. Larger feathers should not be a fix for bad arrow light, and I change feather length and profile depending on application. Larger, longer and more off-set (even helical) for hunting with broadheads, and smaller and shorter with less off-set for pure target shooting. Right off-set for RW feathers, and left off-set for LW feathers.
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Damnit bub! Quit typing your text inside the brackets when you quote! Keep it up and Im gonna fly out to NoCal and "fix" it myself pal!
Rut Roh Raggy!! I hear the gunships cranking up! Sorry PD :laugh: