Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: nclonghunter on February 02, 2014, 09:51:15 pm
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My current tillering tree incorporates a pulley at the bottom. I place my bow and hook the draw cord onto the string and pull it and return it. NOW, some of the tillering trees and one like I used to have did not incorporate a draw cord, it was simply notches about one inch apart down to 28 inches. What is the down side or problem with pulling the bow string down to 26 inches and hooking it on a notch, then stepping back and examining the limbs. Doesn't that prolonged bending of the limbs damage the bow by possibly wreaking the limbs. Maybe even causing more set in the limbs. It just seems very stressful to me. I like the draw cord much better but it limits your time to compare the limb tiller.
Any thoughts on this? Maybe using a static tillering tree just to 20 inches or so would not cause any bad results if any?
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I don't like the tillering sticks with pegs in them for the reasons that you mentioned and if a bow is going to blow up on me I would rather be standing back a few feet on the end of the rope and pulley.
I use my camera to snap a quick pic and study that to see what the bow needs. When I get down to final tiller I will loose the tree all together, set the timer on the camera and pull the bow back like I would shoot it.
I think the difference between how the tillering tree draws the bow is different enough from how you would do it to make a difference.
Just how I do it.
Mark
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Tillering stick works fine with the long string when you are working toward brace. I don't think that you place undo stress on the limbs if you are only bending them a few inches. After that I use the tree with a pulley. With that said - many methods used to tiller a bow.
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I don't like the tillering sticks with pegs in them for the reasons that you mentioned and if a bow is going to blow up on me I would rather be standing back a few feet on the end of the rope and pulley.
I use my camera to snap a quick pic and study that to see what the bow needs. When I get down to final tiller I will loose the tree all together, set the timer on the camera and pull the bow back like I would shoot it.
I think the difference between how the tillering tree draws the bow is different enough from how you would do it to make a difference.
Just how I do it.
Mark
X2
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Beyond what's already been mentioned, my tillering tree is set up to mimic my holds on the bow and string. It's also designed to be versatile, able to be quickly set up to mimic other archers' holds on bow and string. That cannot be done with a tiller stick either. Also, with the rope and pully system, you can stand back and watch the limbs work, getting a more dynamic view of their action, reflex straightening out, recurves opening up, etc. I only ever used the stick on my first bow.
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I use a rope and pulley, then take a pic on my phone. Size the picture and use a quarter to determine my ellipse. Watching for uneven apots
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I just have sticks cut to 8", 12", 15", 18", 20", 24", 27", and 28".
Actually 24 27 and 28 are on the same stick... notches