Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: HighEagle on March 05, 2014, 05:39:58 pm
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I have to say I'm a little bummed. The maple did develop some frets on the upper limb just below the color transition a few inches down. Hard to see in the pic but one is above the two in the center and one below 6 dark rings down.
[imghttp://(http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff371/enterprise401/resized/IMG_00101.jpg) (http://s1232.photobucket.com/user/enterprise401/media/resized/IMG_00101.jpg.html)][/img]
Also on the back right out of the top fade it shows signs of stress light colored Horizontal lines under the snake skin. Not at all rough or did it crack the finish and no frets on the belly side of the fade.
[imghttp://(http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff371/enterprise401/resized/IMG_0017.jpg) (http://s1232.photobucket.com/user/enterprise401/media/resized/IMG_0017.jpg.html)][/img]
Do you all see that my teller is off in the F/D? It did take a little set, Brace is at 6 3/8" from the back of bow.
(http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff371/enterprise401/resized/IMG_00011.jpg) (http://s1232.photobucket.com/user/enterprise401/media/resized/IMG_00011.jpg.html)
[imghttp://(http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff371/enterprise401/resized/IMG_00071.jpg) (http://s1232.photobucket.com/user/enterprise401/media/resized/IMG_00071.jpg.html)][/img]
[imghttp://(http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff371/enterprise401/resized/IMG_00091.jpg) (http://s1232.photobucket.com/user/enterprise401/media/resized/IMG_00091.jpg.html)][/img]
Would you leave it?, rework it?,or start a new bow?
Thanks for looking and any comments, Chuck
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Can't rework a fret. Most people are horrified and want to get rid of it, and think that sanding it out will get rid of it. Quite the opposite. Sanding it out only makes it worse. The limb is too weak there, and removing more wood will only hasten its death.
Your bow is decently designed and reasonably tillered. Must be the wood. Chalk it up, move on, and make another (out of something else!). You can shoot it until it eventually fails, or hang it on the wall. Frets are frets, and a sign of overstressed wood which is about to fail.
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Thanks adb,
I was thinking it was to thick that caused the frets and not bending enough.
Thanks again, Chuck
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I dont have adbs eye but i think that bow has a sweet bend. Too bad she wont make it. Gorgeous bow and finish just the same.
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Thanks aj
Ya a little bummed. I may have got in a hurry at the end, I still might wrap the handle and ends of the snake skin. May not do a fancy job as had planed.
Thanks, Chuck
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Commiserations. Will make a stunning wall hanger. 8)
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Fantastic tiller. Those frets popped up between the quilting, that's about where id expect to them. Nice effort HE.
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abd said,
My bow was decently designed and reasonably tillered. Must be the wood. So you think if I had a perfect design and tiller with the same maple it still would of fretted?
Specs: 61" ntn, 50 52lbs @ 27 27.5 cant get the scale to read right its reads plus 50# and under 52 each time
3" fades, 1 5/8" for 8" straight taper to 1/2inch flipped tips
Hickory backing
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Figured wood is more likely to fret than regular wood even if it is from a proven bowwood species.
Sometimes you can get away with it other times you don't, no real rhyme or reason.
Your bow has a pretty decent tiller, so I don't think its your skills. Maybe if the limbs had been a lot wider it might not have fretted.
Wood can be so unpredictable. I used one species in backed bows a few years ago, saffronheart. Curly board, light curl compared to your wood, narrow ELB bamboo backed, no chrysals.
Another slat, not curly, a couple of pin knots, not raised, no frets. Then another with pin knots, not raised . It chrysaled at low brace height, despite being smooth and evenly tillered, no low spots. Left a bump at this spot during weight reduction, no increase in the chrysals size.
Next bow and all since have pin knots compensated for with small bumps on the belly, no chrysalling. All slats were re sawn from one very large, long board.
Hamish.
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Too bad. The bow looks very nice and the tiller looks quite good. Perhaps if you had made the bow a bit longer.
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Thanks Guys,
All good answers got me really thinking about the design. I do still have some big slabs of the same Maple I should dig it out look for some clear straight grain. Longer and a hair wider may be the way to go
Thanks Again, Chuck
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I struggle with spending much time and effort on questionable material. To me, if the material isn't of high quality, it's not worth it. Like others here, it seems to ultimately lead to disappointment.
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The full draw pic looks good to me! I would shoot it and enjoy it until she just won't shoot any more. Sure is a pretty one!
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Man thats a shame, beautiful bow and tiller looks real good to me also. Who knows, may survive the frets and shoot for a long time. I don't know squat about maple or figured wood but the bow sure looks about as nicely crafted as any I've seen. Wood sure can be fickle though.