Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: UserNameTaken on July 02, 2014, 01:33:04 am
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Hi all,
I found a red oak board with some really fat late growth, and I would like to make my first molly out of it. This is my plan, but I worry that this is too narrow or too short--or both.
(http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p663/justrickjustrick/imagejpg1_zpsaf0ad9c5.jpg) (http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/justrickjustrick/media/imagejpg1_zpsaf0ad9c5.jpg.html)
(http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p663/justrickjustrick/imagejpg2_zps6c3d92ef.jpg) (http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/justrickjustrick/media/imagejpg2_zps6c3d92ef.jpg.html)
Those rings are about 1/2 inch thick.
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I just finished a red oak molly backed with burlap that is 59 1/4" ntn and 55 @ 26. I went 2 1/4 and it still took set (due to my inept tillering and it probably just being overs-stressed) How long is the draw? I think you're probably good to go, never tried the Z handle though. Keep us posted
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Peacebow,
How much set did you end up with? My draw is 26".
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I think I would keep the length, but change the ratio between lever and bending limb. Maybe 10" lever and 17" bending limb. Also, I prefer the bending limb to taper slightly. Maybe from 2" down to 1 3/4" or even 1½". It just looks nicer and makes it easier to tiller. Otherwise your design looks fine. I like those fat rings of that oak 8)
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Just make sure to get your tip line up and reduced early on.it translates to a fair bit of weight lost even if the flex just a bit.GL!
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Looking forward to seeing what you come up with on this one... I wound up backing mine with a similar design with silk because I was nervous about the red oak.
OneBow
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Thanks for the advice guys. I will post some pictures if it works out.
Dark Soul, thanks; I will adjust my design to those dimensions to be on the safe side.
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For what it's worth, I haven't built this EXACT bow yet, but this drawing summarizes all the information that I've gathered on these things. If you build it, lemme know how it turns out.
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I like wooden spring's link, pretty good basics for a modern mollegabet even though the tapered limb strays from the artifact just as much as a Z handle does ;)
That's some crazy oak, keep us updated on how that thing bends!
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8)
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I like wooden spring's link, pretty good basics for a modern mollegabet even though the tapered limb strays from the artifact just as much as a Z handle does ;)
That's some crazy oak, keep us updated on how that thing bends!
Hey, that's cool. Like I said I haven't built this configuration yet. For all I know it's going to be more like a cricket bat than a bow...
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Here's one close to that design.
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Wooden Spring, thanks. I might just give that design a try, because I really like the shape of it.
Huisme, it must have been one happy tree. I've never seen late growth that thick before.
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I can confirm that modified molle design works well; made one for a friend recently, looks a lot like Bushboy's
(http://i.imgur.com/nMweQ5L.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/YNSciwr.jpg)
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I have a 17" working limb and an 8 inch lever, actually about 1 1/4" of resting set on each limb I would have tapered the working limb like these guys are saying, would have saved me endlessly removing wood toward the end to open up the outers I think. Hope it turns out nice, keep us post. :)
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So, I've laid out the design that Wooden Spring posted, and I'm wondering if I should make the first 6" of the bending limb parallel. I would rather not, because it looks pretty darn elegant the way that it is, but I don't know how much I can get away with. I do plan on heat treating, which will help, but I was also going to reflex the tips a bit.
-68 1/2" tip to tip.
-17 1/4" working limb
-2" at the fades tapering to 1 3/8" @ 12.75"
-then, tapering to 1 1/16" at the beginning of the lever fades.
I'm shooting for 55-60 lbs. @ 26". Thoughts?