Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: jeffp51 on July 27, 2014, 01:35:41 am
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I have been lurking for a while, but I think it is time to start contributing. I have read TBB #1 and 2, and made a couple of board bows with varying degrees of success, but ultimately they have all failed. I live in Utah where good bow wood is harder to find than other areas.--I thought about "pruning" the neighbor's tree in the night, but decided against it. This weekend, I made a deal with my brother in law, who lives in the mountains of southern Utah. We cut down a maple a native variety doesn't grow very big, but not sure exactly what kind) on his property and I ended up with two logs about 5-6 inches in diameter and 7 feet long. I haven't split them yet, and don't really have the tools (yet) to deal with them. Not sure if I should try to quarter the logs and try and get 4 staves from them, or if I should not be greedy and just split them in half. The growth rings look pretty tight, so I am a little fearful of chasing rings, but I am good at being patient (mostly) and comfortable working with wood.
I am looking for general advice right now on how to proceed, and will probably have more specific questions soon. Any help is welcome, especially if you have experience with Utah wood.
Jeff
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You should be plenty safe to quarter those logs, but don't try to chase a ring! Maple is diffuse-porous and should just have the bark/cambium removed.
Do at least the first split with wedges so you're sure of how the grain grows. If you've got straight grain it'd be safer to band-saw the halves into quarters, but if it's wiggly and/or twisty you're going to want to stick with wedges or maybe even not use the stave if it's really crazy.
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No band saw. So it will have to be wedges. I have read about using a circular saw to kerf the wood and kind of guide where you want the split to happen. How do I make sure I am following the vertical grain if I do this? What is the best tool for debarking? It didn't want to peel by hand when I first cut it. I am also assuming I can rough out something so that it dries quicker--I would just as soon not wait 2 years for the wood to cure. I am patient, but not that patient.
Internet searching also makes me think I am working with Canyon Maple (Acer grandidentatum).
thanks.
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I tried kerfing a black locust once and it didn't really seem to make any difference to me, but from what I know you should be more careful splitting maple. Unless the grain was wavy I'd avoid kerfing.
The joy of splitting is that if a log splits in half along the pith you can see quite clearly the path of the grain. You'll know it when you see it ;)
I like a dulled draw knife for lifting bark. If it's really dried out and sticking hard I finish the cambium using the draw knife as a scraper, but you shouldn't have that much trouble if you get on with it :P Then you can indeed shape the bow to rough dimensions for drying. I suggest strapping it to something solid to protect against warpage, be it a 2x4, or beam, a straight tree, or whatever else you can find. For one particularly perfect black locust log I tied all the staves to rafters in my garage 8)
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Welcome to PA,and bowmaking!!! :)
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It should split fairly easily, most maple does. You missed out by not removing the bark soon after cutting. Drawknifing dried maple bark is not the most rewarding or successful thing IMO...
Welcome aboard and we'd love to see your progress!
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Can't wait to see your work. Welcome :)
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Where abouts in Utah are you?
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I'd split the logs in half and give them a few weeks to stabilize before splitting down to stave form. Get the logs or half logs under cover and off the ground. Be sure to seal the log ends. Once you split the logs in half you'll know if the trees grew straight or spiraled.
You should be able to remove the bark since the wood was cut during the growing season. Be sure you seal the back if you do remove the bark. I have not worked much with maple but any other whitewoods I've cut during the summer were easy to debark, even a month after harvesting the wood.
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Where abouts in Utah are you?
I am in Pleasant Grove. I saw from an earlier post from you that you have mentioned bows from Russian olive, and I am interested in that wood too, since it seems to be the most available around here.
Thanks for all the replies. keep them coming. My brother in law is bringing me the logs we cut this evening. I can split them tomorrow if I can round up some wedges
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Make some simple wood wedges. Start the split with an ax or hatchet them continue with the wood wedges.
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I used wedges cut from pine 1x2's once in the throes of desperation. Whadya know, they worked well enough that I hung onto them and used them a second time before they were so shot that they fell apart! A tine of deer antler works too, I use those in demonstrations about ABO bowbuilding.
Since you have the maple, try taking a few of the branches and sharpen them into "stakes", start your splits with a hatchet or axe, then follow up with the disposable branches.
Good luck!
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I watched a documentary called Happy People on Netflix. One of the men on the show splits out planks from a tree with wood wegdes that he cut from the same tree. Harbor Freight has cheap wedges. They are also open on Sunday.
Siberian Elm (Mostly called Chinese Elm around here) also supposedly makes good bows.
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Be sure to seal the log ends. Once you split the logs in half you'll know if the trees grew straight or spiraled.
You should be able to remove the bark since the wood was cut during the growing season. Be sure you seal the back if you do remove the bark.
What do you seal the back with if you plan to finish it later? I thought I would use titebond on the ends.
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Here are some photos of the split logs. I am sure for most of you this nothing new, but I am still trying to find my way. The split logs look less straight than they did when they were whole, but I suppose that is normal. The dark spots don't look promising. Thoughts?
Oh, and debarking -- not the most enjoyable part of making a bow.
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I have never really had an issue debarking green wood. Do you have a draw knife? That makes it pretty quick.
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still trying to find one. used a hatchet as a draw knife. Not sure a draw knife would have helped. It was on pretty tight.
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Woodcraft in South Jordan has them. They are $38 for a small one, and the cost just goes up from there. They are around the same cost on Amazon.
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I quartered the log show in the pictures above, and I think maybe 2 of the 4 staves will make bows in the weight I want. I split the other log, and I think I will leave it as a half and work it down from there. Lots of knobs on it, so it will have more character (be more complicated) than I was hoping for, but a challenge is always nice, right?
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Good luck with those. You should have Utah and Rocky Mountain juniper not far from you as well
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Ebay is where I got my 3 draw knives. I use one for drawknifing and 1 as a scraper and one hangs on the wall. I also found several at old antique (junk collector) stores in this area. Most of the junk collector knives needed new handles.