Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Stringman on August 08, 2014, 04:56:21 pm
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Obviously not my area of expertise, so feel free to chime in...
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s670/cotton7611/3ABE516F-1C61-4A92-AA43-DE10A1C08ECD_zps5wgfl3hc.jpg) (http://s1311.photobucket.com/user/cotton7611/media/3ABE516F-1C61-4A92-AA43-DE10A1C08ECD_zps5wgfl3hc.jpg.html)
I have all my pieces prepped and the glue lines look good. I have a power lam of Purple Heart between the belly (Osage) and handle (maple.) Is one power lam enough?
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s670/cotton7611/E8E89AE0-1282-41B7-985F-FF32F7325C4D_zpszqwyfvzz.jpg) (http://s1311.photobucket.com/user/cotton7611/media/E8E89AE0-1282-41B7-985F-FF32F7325C4D_zpszqwyfvzz.jpg.html)
I just opened my yr old can of Unibond to see if it was still usable.. And it's not. ::) so another question, is should I pop for the new can of Unibond, or use TB III?
Thanks in advance!
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I'm not sure I would use the wedge because, it is going to be putting uneven pressure on the glue. You are going to get more pressure on the thicker side of the wedge. You might want to get another wedge on the wether side or something to get more even pressure.
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That's so much more fancy shmancy than what I do that I can't comment :-X ....that's borderline a glass form right there.. Scott should we be concerned with the direction your going? ??? ::) :-X :laugh:
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Scott you have too many pressure points. You need even clamping force from tip to tip with no more than say a 2" gap. Like 30) 2" c clamps, heavy rubber bands, bike tubes and the sort. Your only pushing on the nodes, that will make them dry, and POW.
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Lol!! No Chris, I would definitely not call this a direction. >:D I got this form and some seemingly unusable pieces of f***** glass from a friend last year. Glass still stands in the corner with no future in sight, but this form seems like a good place to start for a lam bow. I had to cut out the top "press" board last night and it looks like I should be able to get some nice even pressure with this setup. Another bonus is that the whole thing can then be laid into the hot box for the drying period. No clamps, rubber bands, or twines necessary.
Agreed Matt, need to get some more shims so I can fit them from both sides.
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So even though I can see no light between the lams I need to shim between the nodes??
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So even though I can see no light between the lams I need to shim between the nodes??
You don't wanna crush the nodes and put all your pressure on them....just cut a bunch of pine shims to stick in there every couple inches that keeps the pressure in between the nodes and up off of them...that form should work dandy if done right...and I agree with matt on the wedge at the handle area..unless ya stuck another wedge in the opposite direction? Of course you can always just do it like the glass guys do and use a pressure hose :P
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Pieces of open cell foam would work well to. They are soft, but not too soft and would apply nice pressure.
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Ya Chris,(oops Blackhawk) I was thinking pressure hose also,,, :) :P :)
DBar
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Scott you have too many pressure points. You need even clamping force from tip to tip with no more than say a 2" gap. Like 30) 2" c clamps, heavy rubber bands, bike tubes and the sort. Your only pushing on the nodes, that will make them dry, and POW.
+2
I use an open form, it seems to work, and rubber tube.
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Ok... How bout the glue part of the question?
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You need a pressure strip, maybe medium dense foam, They usually use an inflated aur hose with a form like that. I used to use a similar form with a foam strip for pressure. You might consider a tad more reflex at the same time.
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TB 3
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A fire hose is what I would use, and have got a chunk if you need it, but you would have to find the plugs. I am going to this in some of my forms. I personal;ly think the hose woould give a better glue line with a even amount of pressure. Just my opinion. :) Tite bond will work in my expiriences.
VMB
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I think that set up for clamping looks great in a steam punk sort of Jules Verne way ;D ;) but is actually pants :o
I think the reasons have already been spelled out. Just take off the top section and the ironwork. Use good ol' rubber wraps it will give much more even pressure.
If you do want to use the jig, as is, use wedges with a very shallow angle pushed in from alternate sides with very little gap between 'em.
Oooooh just had another idea! :o
Put a layer of rubber tube/strap wha'ever between boo and top former then apply pressure to the top former by putting wedges under the bolts that go through the very top of the iron straps !? Yes?... No? ... er maybe. At least it's quick and simple and it uses the jig in it's full glory... mind I thonk some domed brass nails tapped in along the bottom would add to the look >:D
Prob' best idea is to sit and have a beer and think >:D
Del
(PS. Not my area of expertise either, so maybe I'll join you for that beer :laugh: )
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Out of the form and startin to lay out the bow.
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s670/cotton7611/5D47F8E4-E71F-416A-A1D9-237F109F0F9B_zps7x00hub5.jpg) (http://s1311.photobucket.com/user/cotton7611/media/5D47F8E4-E71F-416A-A1D9-237F109F0F9B_zps7x00hub5.jpg.html)
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s670/cotton7611/9FE3EE0B-F0AB-4F14-99E4-4607429FADCC_zpspzcodfx7.jpg) (http://s1311.photobucket.com/user/cotton7611/media/9FE3EE0B-F0AB-4F14-99E4-4607429FADCC_zpspzcodfx7.jpg.html)
Hoping this goes well cause it sure is a purty handle! Any advise on dimensions?
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On a standard bbo like that I go 1 1/8" wide at the fades for 6",then taper to your tips...someone elses mileage may vary ::) ;)
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Were do you guys get the Osage boards? I can seem to find it anywhere. 3 rivers is even out.
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That sounds about like what I was gonna do Chris.
Tim, I cut my own for this build. It helps to have an abundance of Osage. ::)
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Ok, here's the update. After cutting it out and starting the floor tillering process I noticed a small seperation between the power lam and the handle. I shot some thin CA glue into the crack and clamped her back down.
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s670/cotton7611/05F76F2A-D745-40DF-9432-CFF7CA842182_zpsfc8ouizv.jpg) (http://s1311.photobucket.com/user/cotton7611/media/05F76F2A-D745-40DF-9432-CFF7CA842182_zpsfc8ouizv.jpg.html)
Next I put a string on it and got the tiller close. The crack had not reappeared so I took a chance and shaped the handle.
(http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/s670/cotton7611/0AEE1912-1563-44DF-9A71-93D11A43BB1D_zpsqitrd7kl.jpg) (http://s1311.photobucket.com/user/cotton7611/media/0AEE1912-1563-44DF-9A71-93D11A43BB1D_zpsqitrd7kl.jpg.html)
Here's to hoping!
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Getting closer.
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I sure hope that handle is going to stay on firmly! You should have put that powerlam in between the osage and bamboo. That is the only place a true powerlam should be located. It's currently more of a long handle extension. Those small gaps in between the lams also don't help.
But it's certainly a beautiful bow! I love that wood and figure of the riser.
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Stringman, thats not a powerlam, a power lam would be between the belly and the back and it would have stiffined up your handle enough to avoid lifting. Yours is just a built up handle.
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Thanks for the correction on terminology. I see what you mean about the power lam being sandwiched between belly and backing... makes sense.
The gaps on the handle lams seem to have gone away after the second glue and reclamp. This bow will never be a bow I'm overly proud of, but I did learn several thing on it. Maybe if I make a few more I will find one I can post.
Thanks for the help!