Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Coastal Pursuits on October 03, 2014, 07:09:59 pm
-
Hi Guys,
I'd like to start by thanking you all this forum is a wealth of information. Through the TBB series and this forum I've been able to build several hunting weight hickory self bows. Lately, I've been working on my first piece of osage... I just lifted a splinter... Is this repairable through glue or by reducing the limb width. The limb is 1.5" wide. If I reduced the width to remove the splinter it would be 1.25"
(http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s400/Mhamer1490/imagejpg1_zps3792e044.jpg) (http://s1049.photobucket.com/user/Mhamer1490/media/imagejpg1_zps3792e044.jpg.html)
Highlighted Side view:
(http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s400/Mhamer1490/imagejpg2_zps4ad1a560.jpg) (http://s1049.photobucket.com/user/Mhamer1490/media/imagejpg2_zps4ad1a560.jpg.html)
-
The bow is 67" t2t and I was shooting for 55# @ 28".
-
has the bow been braced,, drawn to what length, ,etc,
-
It has not been braced yet. I have drawn it to about 15 inches with a taunt, long string. The splinter lifted while I was attempting to brace it.
-
You can easily reduce osage width to 1 1/4" and still get a good bow.
-
Thank you. I assume it would be best to reduce the limb uniformly. Or should I just reduce that area?
-
rounding the edges would help too,, and just take it slow on trying to brace it,, some would not agree,, but I put the bow on the long string to brace height for a while before I try to brace for the first time,,,, also really make sure the bow is bending even before trying to brace,, a pic might help us here
-
Follow the grain religously. And round off the square corner before you bend that wood again!!! A sharp corner focuses the strain to a knife edge and something is gotta give. Whereas if you round the edges over, it diffuses the strain over more area.
-
It looks to me like you trimmed the limbs straight and did not follow the grain. This will not work on osage. Draw pencil lines along the grain on both sides of the limbs and take it down to those lines. You may get way with trimming the stiff outer part straight.
-
Looks like you didn't follow the grain so narrowing it will likely just move the grain pattern over a bit and crack it again.
-
Agreed you must follow the grain first and foremost as in laterally. Look at the stave in good light and you will see the 'flow' of the grain lay out your width to follow this and then remove as much as you need to to get past the crack. You may well end up with a 1 inch wide bow but better that than it crack again if you just reduce the width without following the grain.
-
Ok with out more pics its hard to tell,, but as stated,, if you follow the grain and take out the splinter,, there is a bow in there
as stated,, you cant just shape osage so it looks straight,,, you have to follow the grains of the wood
I know this is repetitive,, but rounding the edges will help too
if you bow gets a bit narrow and you miss your weight dont freak out,,there is still a great bow in there
you can sinew back it and get your weight back and more,,you will have to shorten and re tiller,,but a great bow can still be had from a failed self bow attempt,, so at this point you have positive options
sometimes making an osage self bow requires overcoming quite a few issues on the way,, we have all been there and still an osage stave will throw a surprise when you think you have seen every thing,,, think positive and continue on,,, :)
-
Ok thanks guys, I've reduced the limbs following the grain lines. Both limbs are now about 1.25" give or take how the grain is running. I'll post more pics before I start bending it again, once I round the edges.
-
Best of luck, CeePee, we are all holding our breath waiting to find out how it ends!
-
Ok so I reduced the limbs by following the grain lines and rounded the edges. Both limbs are +/- 1.25".
The angle makes the limb look twisted but its flat...
(http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s400/Mhamer1490/5F1AF4C9-989B-4A1E-96D6-A86AC0F840CF_zpsuozsibzs.jpg) (http://s1049.photobucket.com/user/Mhamer1490/media/5F1AF4C9-989B-4A1E-96D6-A86AC0F840CF_zpsuozsibzs.jpg.html)
(http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s400/Mhamer1490/00AC4A09-49FB-484C-840C-980FD596BF69_zpsgkgvexnx.jpg) (http://s1049.photobucket.com/user/Mhamer1490/media/00AC4A09-49FB-484C-840C-980FD596BF69_zpsgkgvexnx.jpg.html)
I haven't narrowed the handle yet, I wanted to make sure my string alignment was right.
(http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s400/Mhamer1490/FBF9C2B1-9626-412F-9028-D983FD26CD7C_zpsugezfzfu.jpg) (http://s1049.photobucket.com/user/Mhamer1490/media/FBF9C2B1-9626-412F-9028-D983FD26CD7C_zpsugezfzfu.jpg.html)
(http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s400/Mhamer1490/D16EF224-CB7F-491F-89E5-A1F8C28AACC5_zpskqe5zace.jpg) (http://s1049.photobucket.com/user/Mhamer1490/media/D16EF224-CB7F-491F-89E5-A1F8C28AACC5_zpskqe5zace.jpg.html)
I've heated in 1.5" of reflex.
(http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s400/Mhamer1490/7CCBE96D-A639-4ADB-A7E8-DD19F338F584_zpsb0u12kvt.jpg) (http://s1049.photobucket.com/user/Mhamer1490/media/7CCBE96D-A639-4ADB-A7E8-DD19F338F584_zpsb0u12kvt.jpg.html)
Black Walnut and Bocote tips.
(http://i1049.photobucket.com/albums/s400/Mhamer1490/D4274877-628F-4DF0-AE7C-507332E1C963_zpsov1vwffy.jpg) (http://s1049.photobucket.com/user/Mhamer1490/media/D4274877-628F-4DF0-AE7C-507332E1C963_zpsov1vwffy.jpg.html)
Thanks for all the help guys.
-
Looks good
Could you avoid the splinter area?
-
Yes, I worked the limb down past the splinter.
-
thats looking very nice, good job on the narrowing,,you wouldnt have the narrow the handle if you dont want,,,, it is a very "Native" shape right now,,try shooting it with the handle as is and see what you think