Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: PEARL DRUMS on October 19, 2014, 10:04:30 am
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I had a few hill cane arrows that had an inch or so broke off them. I decided Id try to make pilings for them. All I had for dowelling was some "Brazilian Hardwood", as the sticker read. It appears to be mahogany of sorts. The plug end is at least 3/4" long and glued into the cane with super glue. The wraps are red silk thread. I think I did it right? They shoot great and didn't break off! They went from 29" arrows weighing about 520-530 grains to 29" arrows weighing 590-610 grains. That impressed me. Super quiet to.
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Looks like it worked purty good ;)... Brian
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Nice footings, Pearlie. Did you use a tapered connection like Artsy used I think footings were used to repair broken arrows in the early days of popular archery so you're keeping with the tradition. ;)
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Nope. I made round male ends with a shoulder (pain in the arse) that fit into each shaft accordingly. The shoulder portion of the footing seated right flush with the shaft end when I got done tinkering, so I hope that's rigid enough. I have shot them several times now, even went through my target a few times. They seem be to holding strong.
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They look good.
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Sounds like you moved your balance point a good bit forward on the shaft with these heavy wood footings! They look great, so if they fly great then you have a winning combo!
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awesome job pearlie
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PD do you put super glue over the thread.
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I actually used Seal All for the threads Robby. It seals and is a glue. It dries mostly hard, so it wont crack.
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Nice job, Pearl. They look sweet!
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They turned out great Chris, That is how I made my Gator arrows. :)
Pappy
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PD,
Got to get you away from those store bought broadheads :) ;)
DBar
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I know Bill. I just don't want to learn to knap. Plus, Im not sold on stone in my heart. I know millions of pounds of meat has been harvested with stone, and still does. But I have to be 110% confident in my equipment. As far as trade points go. I haven't found many that weigh up and stay sharp. Clint gave me some real nice trade points, but they are very light. I may get away with them with these heavy fore shafts though? Never thought of that.
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Those look great Pearly. Now lets see one of them covered in red ;D
For the light trade points cut the slot and then drill out the cane behind where the point will set and glue in the shaft of a 16 penny nail. That adds enough weight and gives the point a solid base to set on.
The ones I used this year were just shy of 140 grains
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Bows%202014/SDC16887.jpg)
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besides you got plenty of knapped points drummer boy
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Those look sweet Chris. Those griz heads are reliable though they were always my go-to hunting heads until Bub started sending me some points from his knapping pit. :)
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Only one way to tell...go run one thru a whitetail rib cage.
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I know Bill. I just don't want to learn to knap. Plus, Im not sold on stone in my heart. I know millions of pounds of meat has been harvested with stone, and still does. But I have to be 110% confident in my equipment. As far as trade points go. I haven't found many that weigh up and stay sharp. Clint gave me some real nice trade points, but they are very light. I may get away with them with these heavy fore shafts though? Never thought of that.
Chris,
I have to agree with you 100% on the confidence factor, I'm still having trouble using knapped points hunting too. I did a little test the other day, and shot different broadhead points in a Styrofoam target. I was amazed at the results. I shot 4 different types of knapped heads and two different trade points. The knapped heads (different shapes) all didn't penetrate the other side of the target. One of the trade point that I put notches in similar to a knapped head and tied on like a stone point, did go all of the way through and stuck out about about 2". The other trade point that I made with a tang with no notches, went all the way through to the fletch. I figured the notches grabbed some Styrofoam on the way through.
So I've been hunting with a trade point, even though I have some real nice knapped points people have made for me. I just don't have the confidence yet and respect the animal too much. Maybe after I get one with a trade point I'll move to a stone point. I do the similar as Clint and add a fishing lead nail (for soft plastics) inside the point of my cane arrows. one small weight weights 50 grains.
Just IMO....
DBar
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I'ved done the tapered point insert on cane arrows and have had trouble with it if the shot is off target and you hit something hard, mostly, not always, the cane will split. I use my cane arrows for everything, 3D, target, stump shooting, small game and larger stuff. I took a self bow to Colorado with cane arrows for Elk, sorry had to use metal broadheads, never got a shot.