Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: feral on October 20, 2014, 08:14:20 am
-
Hey all
I have been given 2 big chunk s of Yew.
they aren't long enough for bows so I need to splice two bits together.
Are there any special requirements for splicing and for Yew bows?
cheers
-
From what I an see from the pics those yew boards don't look ideal for bow building. If you can get a couple of clear 1 1/2" strip you can join them with a "W" or "Z" splice. You'll probably want to back it also.
-
I'd use those for a nice shelf...
They don't look like bow wood to me. That being said, you could use them in a few laminations perhaps.
-
Yeh, i had that feeling too. Still i think i might get something out of them. They belonged to a retired violin maker and a mate found them in h's shed. What is best to bake them with?
-
This is purely a personal opinion because I've never made one and really want to, but I'd try a yew belly, yew core and elm or maple back. The ones I've seen with this combo make exceptional heavy longbows , if you're into that?
-
Oh well,
I cut a couple of strips off bath pieces and the rings look like a contour map of the Blue Mountains.
Knots, swirls, everywhere.
Beautiful timber but no good for bows.
Thanks any way :-\
-
You can get away with quite a few knots and swirls in yew, as long as you back the wood. Take a look at this topic. (http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,40574.0.html)
Could you post a few clear pics of the prepped strips? try a bigger size, for instance by uploading the full size image to www.tinypic.com
-
Wow,
That bow dooks a lot like my wood.
Now I'm excited again.
thanks heaps.
I will post some better pics later
;D
-
I see bows in there.
I would do this. Find a 2" wide strip between the knots. Save the other pieces for riser wood. Then draw a line along the grain so that your next cut maximizes the length of the grain. Saw a diagonal line down the board 3/8" from each end in rough parallel to the grain line you marked.
You will have two pyramidal limbs. The fat end will be crooked. Flip them however you need to get the best side to the belly and back all things considered. If there are little cracks that I know will saw out they can be on the belly otherwise I put that stuff along the back.
Use a string or a long straight line to align the tips and the center closely then mark and trim the but ends to make them straight.
"V" or "z" splices can be laid out to your preference and glued up. Check alignment of the three points above when clamping.
When dry sand the back and joint and fill any small cracks.
From here I make a reflex deflex with a bamboo backing. Need instructions for that part? >:D
So, those Osage boards that three rivers sells As splice-able billets. I get two bows out of the pair.
-
This is an example of the grain
-
I see bows in there.
I would do this. Find a 2" wide strip between the knots. Save the other pieces for riser wood. Then draw a line along the grain so that your next cut maximizes the length of the grain. Saw a diagonal line down the board 3/8" from each end in rough parallel to the grain line you marked.
You will have two pyramidal limbs. The fat end will be crooked. Flip them however you need to get the best side to the belly and back all things considered. If there are little cracks that I know will saw out they can be on the belly otherwise I put that stuff along the back.
Use a string or a long straight line to align the tips and the center closely then mark and trim the but ends to make them straight.
"V" or "z" splices can be laid out to your preference and glued up. Check alignment of the three points above when clamping.
When dry sand the back and joint and fill any small cracks.
From here I make a reflex deflex with a bamboo backing. Need instructions for that part? >:D
So, those Osage boards that three rivers sells As splice-able billets. I get two bows out of the pair.
Thanks'
I wouldnt mind some instructions on the bamboo.
-
Wow the end of that board is loaded with swirly knots haha
-
Thats the problem. :P It belonged to a violin maker and the timber is beautiful. Almost burlwood. Hopefully I can get something out of it.
-
You MAY be able to squeeze a bow out of them but it's going to be a struggle and they must be backed. Those are bad bow making boards but great wood for other things.
-
It would make for a stunning handle lamination.
-
I disagree with the naysayers. I've had swirly bows work out and straight grain wood snap. You can't alwayse tell.
Bamboo backing: I like to get my bamboo as unprocessed as possible. Saves money and steps that aren't terribly difficult even with hand tools. Once your blank is spliced and the seam and back flattened. I lay it on top of the bamboo strip and trace the outline. Let your pencil add a tad to the perimiter then saw just outside that. you'll get about an 1/16 to 1/8th in overhang.
I then saw the belly taper but stop short of where the riser will cut into the belly You'll cut that later. If you are going for deeper reflex deflex sand the belly enough to eliminate or at least serriously reduce the saw marks. This isn't necessary if you are steam bending the curve in but if you are going to cold bend and glue it then it might cause a problem.
I like a riser section to be 10 -11 inches long and cut on a VERRY gently curve where it meets the belly. Pluss I ad a 1/8" strip of contrasting wood. Makes the seam look nicer. An exact match and clean curve is hard to get between the curve and the riser block so that strip splits the difference and makes it look nicer.
I use a band saw to cut the perimiter first on the bamboo then cut the thickness down to about an 1/8" or slightly larger. tilt it at an angle so that you'll cut from both sides and crate a tiny crown down the middle. I use hand planes and or a belt sander locked in my vise to sand it flat.
Then I use hack saw blades to scratch up the belly of the bamboo and back of the bow blank. Mark center markes for you riser black and bow parts so they align when you glue them up.
I have interchangeable belly side up gluing blocks that fit to a straight bar of oak with center lines on them and the straight bar.
I use either unibond or weldwood plastic resin for gluing the boo to the blank but one could use tb3.
after gluing the boo and blank togeather I wrap with shrink wrap and use clapms to get it around my curved riser block, and the ends lifted and then wra the whole thing down with bike tire tubes. From there into the hot box at 140 for 4-5 hours.
pull it out when done clean the overhang up and glue drips etc then clamp it around your riser block and glue with tb3.
begin tillering and finishing out the bow. I don't do ANY bow bending untill the boo is glued own.
-
I agree nothing is etched in stone. But, those swirls are so bad the chance of a bow even staying straight is slim. Those swirls will pull that bow limb all over heck as he tillers it down. Bamboo backed or not. When grain is running dang near 90 degrees off center, it will fret and crack as it tries to bend in a straight plane. Call me a naysayer if you must. Im good with that title...:)
-
Nay