Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Sidmand on November 05, 2014, 04:51:04 pm
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I need some help, and I believe I have the right place for that. I have about half a dozen bows under my belt now, well really about 4 successful ones. All of my successes have been red oak boards and one hickory backed osage. I just scored some great looking Ipe about 3/4"X6" 10 foot long, but it has grooves cut on either side (for decking I guess) that are about 1/2" deep, so I will have to cut that off and end up with 3/4"x5"x10'. I also have a 2"x3" piece of nice strait grained white oak, it's 11' long. I would like to make some bows out of this of course, so I'm going to rip the white oak down to 1/8" backing strips to back the Ipe with. I have had the best success thus far with bendy handle bows; easier for me to tiller and I really like the simplicity and the way they shoot. So, I'm thinking slight bend through the handle with cork to build up a grip and a little rest. I've never worked with Ipe, and I need to get at least two bows out of this, one for my brother in law and one for the guy who gave me the lumber. Would like to get 3 bows so I have one for myself, but I want them to get bows before I do.
Now, the questions I have are:
- What would be good dimensions for a bow like this to get between 40# and 55# at 27" to 28" draw?
- I'm thinking I could get a little perry reflex in there, but does Ipe heat bend well at all? I'd like to flip the tips a little if possible
- Does the wood combination sound OK? Anyone done something like this?
- What is the shortest you could go with this combo (assuming I don't screw up the tiller). Could you feasibly go 60" tip to tip? I saw someone on here do that very thing, but he is probably a LOT better at this than I am: http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,22794.0.html.
- Last question: do you think the layout I have drawn up will work, assuming I do my part?
I'm choosing 60" because the place the guys hunt that I'm making these for (including me if this works out) is thick, and one uses a tree stand, so I want to accommodate them if possible, AND if I can go 60" I can get 6 bows out of this Ipe if I'm lucky and skillful, not 3. I can go longer if y'all think it's too short and will be a problem.
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Ipe hates heat and doesnt bend well at all. 1 1/8" wide by 62-63" ntn is good.
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while ipe does not bend so well with heat, you can glue in some perry reflex easy enough. Lift the tips off the bench with pieces of 2x4 when doing the glue up.
Russ
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My finest shooter is white oak backed ipe.
W.O makes great backing and looks realy nice with ipe.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,47175.0.html
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OK, so can't do much in the way of bending for the tips, but I can glue in some perry reflex. How about doing something like the picture attached, borrowed from a walkthrough from 4esttrekker. Would that be worthwhile?
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You can glue on levers with an increased angle.
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I've used the glue on recurve works great, go for it I like to use a contrasting color wood makes a sharp bow
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So, what do you guys think then on the glue on: Ipe belly + white oak backer + Ipe recurve = reddish + white stripe + reddish?
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TTT - added some dimensions and a picture.
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The dimensions look good to me. I've made a few ipe bows, and the wood is a great bow wood, just don't breathe the dust!
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you can do it at 60" but i'd go 64"ttt, a few inches certainly won't make or break ya
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http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35703.0.html
like this
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Thank you all so far for your comments, I'm taking everything you say as something to consider, cause I want these bows to be my best.
Bubby that bow looks great, I dig that a lot. If I'm not mistaken, you left that handle area full thickness and then started taking Ipe off at the fades, more or less giving a stiff handle, is that right? What were the dimensions on your "handle", if I'm correct in my guesses above?
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the handle is basically 1 1/8" square and 8" from end of fade to end of fade, has a 1/4" cut in for the shelf
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Roger that Bubby, thank you sir!
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You can glue on levers with an increased angle.
I've used 4estTrekker's glue-on recurve template on several of latest bows. Recently started thinking .... what if another thickness of wood were added thereby being able to increase angle.
So, thanks for the info!
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That template can have the angle doubled.
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If you taper your lams prior to glue-up you can easily bend it into a reflexed outer limb. The other option if you want to actually recurve the outer limbs is to cut kerfs into the ipe lam and then glue in thin pieces of wood the same thickness as the saw cuts. You can get really sharp recurves this way - even with ipe! ;)