Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: RAU on November 14, 2014, 11:29:54 am
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I made an Osage Bow that Ive grown real fond of because I used it to kill My first Selfbow deer. The problem is its Too heavy. I can shoot it well enough for 30 or so shots standing straight up in the yard but when i got the shot at that deer after sitting for 2 1/2 hours in cold it honestly took everything i had in me to get to full draw. I was shooting for around 60 at 28 and stopped tilleringat around 70 lbs to make room for final tiller adjustments and sanding cause thats always been the point where i lose unwanted draw weight on past bows. Most of my bows in past come in under weight. This one didnt lose an ounce. Also I have found out my scale is substatiallly off so this thing is just way too heavy! This bow had some problems in beginning. I scalped a pin knot that "ticked" durring shoot in. I filled that with super glue unstrung the wrapped that spot in superglue soaked 90 lb test Musky braid fishing line. Theyre were some other checks in back that i didnt like so i wrapped these too with the same treatment. After hundreds of arrows its holding up great. I want to remove the wraps, retiller to much lower weight, and sinew back it with the bulk of the sinew coming from the doe it killed. Heres my plan, Im thinking I'll gently sand off the superglue soaked braid from the belly and sides with belt sander, roughen the line on the back and leave it so glue sticks to it, then just sinew over it and retiller. Anyone think this will work? Any advice is appreciated.
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I would remove the wraps completely. If the bow was tillered well all you should have to do is clean up the back, add the sinew backing, let it cure well and retiller the bow to the weight you want. I think leaving the wrap would not allow the sinew to adhere well to the bow.
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Definitely take the wraps off completely. I would take it down a growth ring to get rid of the defects and then back it.
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Isn't that gonna be brutal and make a big mess with all that superglue? I really soaked it! Is there a god solvent for superglue? Thanks a lot for the replies guys!
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I doubt it if you mostly use a file to work it down to the wood. Acetone will dissolve super glue.
You definitely don't want your sinew bridging a lump of synthetic material that extensive.
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Try it and see. I've removed super glue soaked wraps with no damage to the wood. You will do ore damage with the belt sander. Once you get the wrap off just scrape the excess glue off. I think Pat's idea of removing the top ring is a good one, especially since you are backing it.
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Ok thanks, I just googled superglue solvents and like you said aparantly acetone eats superglue up! Thanks!
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Yea I like that idea too, it's not the thickest ringed osage maybe I'll lose a substantial bit of weight with that back ring right off the bat too. Thanks
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sounds like a good plan,,
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I don't agree with anyone....I'd just make another bow....how long is that? Looks to long for sinew...a sinew backed bow should be a pre planned thing on the right piece of wood,and used when your skills are good enough to make weight 100% time(which sounds like you've had issues with)...you could make a new selfbow in the same amount of time it takes to do that...heck it'll take longer cus you'll have to wait for the sinew to dry...save the sinew for a diff piece of wood...there's many more reasons but I'll stop there for now until someone trolls along and quotes me saying I'm full of $%&@....lol :laugh:
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I guess the difference with this bow is that it is still a fresh piece of wood and he wants to come down in weight so it can pretty much be viewed as a stave again.
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The bow is 66" long n to n. I get attached to things, this bow made meat and id like to keep it but at a more manageable weight. It's got a few issues on the back so that's where I came up with the sinew. I understand sinew adds weight and in long flat bows this can actually hinder performance because of the extra mass but I figured the performance loss from a thin course of sinew would be negligable while holding a suspect back together. No?
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I agree with Blackhawk, especially if that bow has sentimental value and has already made meat. Why not just start a new bow and make it to a lower draw weight?
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I agree with everyone,, :) I have reworked bows with great success and enjoyed the process and the results,,but if making a new bow is what you would want to do,, who could argue with that,, bows can be cut shorter,, and bent into reflex to make a nice sinew bow(even after being a long bow for years),, just depends on what you like and want to do,, and i understand wanting to keep hunting with that bow,,I have done the same,, and am getting ready to modify a 20 year old bow,,the piece of wood is special to me and I want to hunt with it,,
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Flop some rawhide down on the ol' gal and reduce a few pounds off.
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10 cooks and 20 recipes. What to do? If you must - clean up the back, put down some rawhide, and reduce weight like Pearl suggests. If it were me, I would just build another - - you will likely be happier in the end with the results - and you will still have the bow that made meat.
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I agree with the latter posts - not sinew, just a rawhide back. If you still have that doe's hide then you have the rawhide you need right there, and you get the sentimental value you were looking for. I'd be real reluctant to remove anything with a belt sander as well. Belt sander sounds like a good way to lose to much weight or jack up your bow.
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Have you done a sinew job before, cause it is messy, labor intensive and quite frankly for me a general pain in the rear, if I'm gonna sinew a bow I try and design it for sinew I'd do as Pearl suggested
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Yes I've done a few Sinew jobs. I've always used Knox gelatin for hide glue. I don't mind the process at all, not a huge fan of processing the stuff but laying it down I don't mind. That said I'm liking this rawhide idea a lot! Thanks guys!