Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DC on November 15, 2014, 05:30:00 pm
-
I'm just getting this bow on the tree. I'm on the long string. The bow has 3" natural reflex that will probably reduce some during tillering. When I put it on the tree and give a little pull it flips over. I can temporarily glue a scrap piece of wood to the inside of the handle to stabilize it but I wondered how others deal with this? I think that once I get it to low brace the problem will go away.
-
DC I've had that problem on occasion. I deal with this by tying the bow to the tree with a piece of binder twine. You might also need to tighten up the fit by adding a wash cloth or rag under or around the handle when you place it on the tree.
-
The cradle for the handle on my tree is wider than I really need, so I always use wood shims to hold it tight. Sometimes I wrap a piece of thick leather around the handle and shim the base of the cradle to get it to sit right. I had one flip over before I used shims and it scared the crap out of me. :o
-
I will use a clamp with the padded rubber dealies on them when I have that issue.
-
Thanks for the quick replies. This is about my tenth bow and this is the first one that's done this. I think I'll modify my saddle(again) so I can use a clamp. I was trying to avoid something that increased the time it takes to put the bow on the tree. Not that time is that important, it just wears on me when it's on the tree-off the tree etc. Problem solved in 20 minutes. No wonder I was getting the shakes when the site was down :D
-
I also use a clamp. Once the bow is braced it's not an issue. Also, if you leave the handle area bulky you can square it up so it sits better. You don't need a shaped handle to tiller a bow.
-
You could also use a strap, several of the people that post here use them, check it out. Simson in Germany is a good example.
-
I've only made three bows but I don't shape the handle, at least the bottom, til I'm pretty much done with tillering. Seemed to make sense as I was learning.
-
I use a tillering stick for reflexed bows until I can get a decent low brace, with even tiller then I switch to a tree. You still need to be careful and have a good floor tiller as the bow will want to flip until the brace height (or long string height)gets high enough to avoid this.
Hamish
-
I wedge mine in with a piece of saddle leather.
-
I use a tillering stick for reflexed bows until I can get a decent low brace, with even tiller then I switch to a tree. You still need to be careful and have a good floor tiller as the bow will want to flip until the brace height (or long string height)gets high enough to avoid this.
Hamish
tillering stick here as well!
-
I've only made three bows but I don't shape the handle, at least the bottom, til I'm pretty much done with tillering. Seemed to make sense as I was learning.
I did the opposite while learning and used to get all excited about shaping handles and do it too early, sometimes even rough shaping handles into green staves while reducing them for drying. I FINALLY learned to just leave them full width, or just barely carve in from the sides to prove to myself the flare at the fadeouts was going to work. So now a I usually do this.
My cradle is a 2x4s with a square notch cut in the end and reinforced with screws that hold it to the wall. It either holds them well, or I slip in a shim beside the handle.
The other thing I do is my version of floor tillering. I'm not good at traditional floor tillering; I can tell how much the limb is bending, and can tell if they are about even, but I can't guess poundage, and I can't see where the limbs are bending differently. So, I have an old cup-ended bowstringer, and before I even get to the tree, I often slip that on, put my foot on the stringer, and pull up a few inches on the handle. Looking down, I can see major differences in the limbs and get a clue about where poundage is, and I can quickly flip it and have a look at both sides.