Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Tiredtim on November 18, 2014, 09:41:44 pm
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Hello all, I'm working on my second osage bow (yeah, snapped the first) and I got to the back down to a single growth ring. But, as it goes, I was working on the handle and a small sliver came off. My question is should I take it down to the next ring or wrap it with sinew? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Pics will help us understand better what your problem is.
FYI, a shaped handle isn't necessary to tiller a bow. I save the handle area and tips for the last.
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Post a picture if you can. Does your handle bend where the chip is? If its a stiff handle you might be OK. Can't really tell without pictures.
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as stated pics would help,, but if the handle is not working, things sound positive,,
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Sorry guys, I hit post before attaching the picture. How's this?
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I'm having trouble finding the splinter in the pic. But, generally, if the splinter is in the working part of the limb, I would personally go down another ring if I had the wood to do so. A pristine back is a must for me, and starting a bow without that is like driving around on a tire with a chunk of rubber missing. A patch wont fix it. It's gonna blow, only question is when. Having said that, if it is in the handle and the handle doesn't bend any, I wouldn't give it a second thought.
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Or are you referring to the split on the left side of the stave? If that is what you are referring to, I would say not just no, but heck no!
If that split is where you intend to have the face transitioning from grip to limb, that area is under tremendous strain. AND, if that is the case, I have had that happen. A stiff handled bow suddenly became a bend in the handle design!
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Is that a split or a tear out on the left side? If its a tear out and you have enough thickness i would chase another ring. If it is a split i have repaired a split like that with glue and a sinew wrap before but i think JW's advice to make a bendy handle is probably a better idea.
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Looks like the sliver starts right where your fade starts. Definitely chase another ring if that is true,IMHO.
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go to the next ring if you can,, and work the handle area with a rasp,, you might want to make the transition a little longer,, not such a steep angle,,
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Agree with Brad. Lengthen your transition out to 2" instead of 1/2".
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Thanks guys. That was what I was needing to know. I'll get to work on chasing another.
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Before you chase another ring. If that split along the side is the issue, then chasing another ring wont matter from what I see. It appears as though your centerline leaves only half as much wood on one side as the other because of the split???? My question is, what is the width of the working limb outside the fade? JW's advice of making a bendy may be your best advice, and chasing another ring will not fix anything if that split is more than a ring deep. Though I do agree that making the fade longer is a good idea generally, it looks like you wont be able to get past that split regardless. If I am reading it right, then keeping the handle width the same , or close to the same as the working limb (no flare out) may be the best and perhaps the only option. No biggie there, just make it a bendy. Curious as to what you come up with.
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Is it a split or has a little sliver of wood popped out. How deep is that crack we're looking at.
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Okay Bob, let me ask you a question. When you say "bendy", do you mean a thinner bow all the way down so that it will bend at the handle? I never thought about that. I'm still new at this building and want to make sure I'm understanding. I like that idea. It's hard chasing those rings. Or it's hard for me I should say.
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You dont need shoulder like fades. You could make your fades long and slender. In your case, as long and slender as the tear out. That way you cut the tear completely out the bow and you got long sexy slim fades. Draw a line at an angle from the outside edge of your grip and angle it to the end of the tear out. Then send another pic before you do any cuting.
Or if not that, make a cut out arrow rest and follow that line to allow the rest to fade back into the bow.
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Sleeks advice is good. I will answer your question as best I can. You can make either an...
A. Static non working handle. It doesn't bend at all, and has flair outs that are the transitions from the narrow handle at 1 inch wide or so to a wider working limb, say 1 1/2 inches wide. Your flair out happens over that short area at the fade, 1 1/2 to 2 inch area or longer as Sleek is suggesting. This gives you two working limbs separated by the static handle.
B. Bendy or working handle. The grip area is often the same width as the working limb. You can narrow it some for comfort sake but you wont need flair outs like you have above. The handle works (bends) so that you have in essence one smooth bend from tip to tip right thru the handle.
I think "B" will solve your problem. Having said that, Sleeks idea may work also. Long slender flair outs so that you can get past the split. Better pictures with more detail and dimensions will help in offering better advice.
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a bend in the handle bow is about 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 wide at the handle and stays about that wide till it narrows at at the tips.. it is thickest at the handle as it does not bend much there,, it is a good design,, many Native bows are of this design, it will allow for a longer draw as well, cause all the wood is working,, I like them and think they are simple and effective and have great cast when made well,, :) the long fades are nice too