Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Mo_coon-catcher on February 14, 2015, 10:29:23 pm
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Yesterday I tries steaming and bending full 90 degree recurves. I've flipped tips but this is my first full recurve. I think it turned out pretty well with the other limb this morning being a little better. Next time I'm definitely using a strip of metal to hold the wood and more clamps on the curve while bending. I used this bow as a test run for my trade bow to see if I liked this level of recurve. On that note do you think that black locust can take that amount of bending? The tips are 1/2" this so there is plenty of wood under the cracking to work, especially since I'm planning to glue layers of other woods under to to sturdy it up with lighter materials and for looks. So how does it look?
Kyle
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Thats a pretty bad break. I don't know. If you don't rush it, keep it oiled while heating it you can get it to bend that much. I think you may have just rushed that one. Hope fully there is still enough there to clean it up. I usually take my thickness down pretty much as far as I want to go before I start shaping them. Hopefully someone else we chime in with better insight.
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How long did you steam
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It was steamed for about an hour using a Water soaked rag wraped on the limb then wrapped with foil and heated with a heat gun. I had steam flowing out of the foil for about an hour. From the other side the crack is only at the top corner. I definitely need to work on my bending some more but I think this one is still usable. For the next one I'll steam a little longer.
Kyle
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I wish I had the b--la to to try that bend, but you inspire me to try.
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Get your bow a little further along before you recurve. Less wood bends so much easier.
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We've all had that happen.
It's recoverable. It won't look so bad once it's rasped down and had a nice thin layer of wood glued over it.
Del
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Soaking the wood for a few days before steaming or even boiling will work better if you want to make a sharp bend.
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A metal strap wont help anything. Ive yet to figure out how a strap putting a fuzz of downward pressure on a belly can keep a tension crack from happening. Id suggest a pot of low boiling water and a tin foil hood next time. Your wood wasn't hot enough to make that bend, hence the massive crack. 35-40 minutes is plenty of time to bend in statics.
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One thing that helps when steam bending is to round the belly a bit and give the edges a good sanding for the length of the tip you will be bending the curves in. The strap does help
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Ive yet to figure out how a strap putting a fuzz of downward pressure on a belly can keep a tension crack from happening. Id suggest a pot of low boiling water and a tin foil hood next time.
The strap doesn't put downward pressure on the belly. It acts like a super strong backing and forces the bBACK to compress to the point the belly doesn't crack. Same way bamboo "overpowers" weak wood bellies.
Mo_coon-catcher, the way you steamed it is fine, and plenty long. The issue is the time it takes to get the towel and wrapping off and get the wood on the form. Wood should be too hot to comfortably touch when bending. It cools rapidly in the air. That, along with getting it thinner before bending will help you.
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I am with Chris, never figured out the strap thing but just thought I wasn't doing it right. I Personally also prefer a pan of water boiling on the side burner of a grill covered with foil for an hour then bend quicker than quick. Everybody knows why you don't use the stove! If you have a wife that is.
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If you can put it on the former and make a temporary steam chest around it then you can bend it while it's still in the steam.
I've used a plastic 5Litre (gallon?) container to do that. Some sacking or an old duvet draped over it helps keep the heat in.
Del
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I haven't done a ton of steam bending but my best success came from straight grain, round corners, smooth belly, tightly fitting strap, and a lot of heat and steam. Species that work well are elm, osage,yew, and maple. I've read that white oak works also.
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I've only done a couple with a strap but I think all it does is capture the splinter and keep it from traveling as far. It also bends the splinter to match the bow so it's easier to glue back down. :D I'm going to try to get the strap tighter, that may help.
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I don't have any pictures of it but the other side didn't splinter off near as bad but cracked to the same depth, which is one growth ring. Using the heat gun a little more when I started bending it and using an extra clamp helped a lot. I've definitely got a few things to try on the black locust. I'm going to put a u-bolt or something on the tip so I don't have to pretend I have three hands in holding the bow, the clamp and tightening the clamp at the same time. I'll thin it a little more and round everything a little more. The towel and foil came off very quick. A little pull and it all just slid right off so I didn't waste any heat unwrapping it. Tonight I think I'll do some more bending and get the hooks twisted straight and line them up, it's small enough movement that dry heat should do it fine. I'm starting a second job this week so Ot will probably be a week or two before I have it shooting. And thanks for all the input everyone.
Kyle
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That steamed towel will HOLD the heat in till it comes off, make sure you soak it to start