Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bubbles on March 19, 2015, 01:34:03 pm
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Hi everyone, I picked up a sweet, pipe straight elm stave from PatM and I'm attempting my first Stave static. Shooting for 50#@26". Right now it is at 50#@20", full brace. Been through 1 heat treatment.
What does everybody think so far? I'm working this one slow, as I want to get it right. The bottom working limb is 1" shorter (I've been on an asymmetrical kick lately) and the limbs are 2.25" wide at the fade, tapering to 2" at mid-limb, tapering from mid-limb to tip. I'm observing some set happening around mid-limb, and I'm fighting a bit of limb twist, as usual. I'm thinking the top fade needs to come around a bit more
(http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/mikemeusel/Mobile%20Uploads/VIDEO2257_0000018711_2_zpsjijpoul8.jpg) (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/mikemeusel/media/Mobile%20Uploads/VIDEO2257_0000018711_2_zpsjijpoul8.jpg.html)
(http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/mikemeusel/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0914_zpse9giz8jx.jpg) (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/mikemeusel/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0914_zpse9giz8jx.jpg.html)
(http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/mikemeusel/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0915_zpsjnhjzn6w.jpg) (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/mikemeusel/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG0915_zpsjnhjzn6w.jpg.html)
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I like the bottom and I think the top fade is a tad stiff.
Nice hooks by the way!
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I agree with Pearlie. Also it looks like the outer half of the bottom limb has a twist. Check the thickness of both sides if that limb for uneven thickness.
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I think it is looking great. The masters have spoken and you are well on your way with that elm bow. I really like the lines and the handle area. Can't wait to see it come to full weight and draw. Heck, it looks finished and ready to go now. Good job Bubbles!
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I like the looks of that. I do think the top needs to come round a bit more.
Was the stave as clean as it appeared to be? Did you reflex it while you were heat treating?
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Hey Bubbles that is a sweet looking bow it hope it comes out like you planned. I'm just debarking a 61" Elm stave (which is looking ok so far!) and so I will be returning to look at your pictures frequently! :)
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Sweet sieddy, let us know how it goes.
PatM - Yep, it's pretty flawless. there are a few tiny pin knots distributed through the top and bottom limbs. I only reflexed it 1". I waited until some set started to show up and then I heated it back a little past straight. I didn't want to go too crazy with the heated in reflex.
I'll work on those fades a bit. I was unsure of just when I should start attacking them to get them to come around.
(http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/mikemeusel/IMAG0919_zps5r69chvz.jpg) (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/mikemeusel/media/IMAG0919_zps5r69chvz.jpg.html)
(http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/mikemeusel/IMAG0918_zpsqb5dxce2.jpg) (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/mikemeusel/media/IMAG0918_zpsqb5dxce2.jpg.html)
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Gorgeous grain run out, gotta be even side to side to look that nice.
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You certainly have a lot of width there to get the bend working right up to the handle. You can get most of your extra work out of there.
Probably best to go for about 2-3 inches of cooked in reflex to ensure ending up with a straight profile.
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I personally would narrow it to somewhere around 1 7/8 or so. " 1/4 is too wide for your intended weight. At least if your elm works like ours over here. I've made quite a few bows just like yours at higher weights and never needed a full 2 inch width.
That top fade needs some attention. Be very careful with that outer limb - do not touch! Removing inner limb width will help this problem too.
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That's looking good, I would probably go with Mikes advice to get the fads moving a bit and you should be there. :) Nice work. :)
Pappy
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Im erring a bit on the side of caution with the width, As this was one of my first stave recurve. Perhaps on the next one I'll go narrower. After i get this one in the bag.
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The extra width will stand you in good stead when I come over and haul it back to 32" to test your workmanship. ;D
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I made a lot of static recurves like that years ago. I kept limb width to about 1 3/4", I would also heat in about 10" of reflex on some of them. I agree with what others say about the tiller, get the inner limbs working more especially the top limb. Keep the belly flat
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Here's the update - This is 51#@21" - looking a little better? Taken a lot of scrapes off those fades.
(http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/mikemeusel/VIDEO2264_0000029982_1_zpsgkdtxaqw.jpg) (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/mikemeusel/media/VIDEO2264_0000029982_1_zpsgkdtxaqw.jpg.html)
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Still looks like the upper needs to come around more. I would focus more on balancing it and exercising it back to your full draw even if the weight is looking too high and then drop the weight as needed with width reduction.
If you get it just right and still have to drop the weight you run more of a risk of throwing it out of tiller by re-scraping the whole limbs.
The extra width allows you to bypass the never pulling it over target weight rule.
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Looking better but it's still that upper inner to mid limb.
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Mike nailed it. Id suggest staying away from that last 12" of limb on each. You don't want soft tips on a static, it will jar your teeth free.
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To me it looks darn near perfect for having a shorter limb on the bottom.
Removing some from the mid limb on top would give more limb travel on the top limb giving some nock travel.
If I'm looking at the limb timing how can it shoot better by increasing top limb travel?
(http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp128/diyfrank/pictures/b.jpg)
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Because it will tip the handle forward a hair which will still leave the limb in the same position. See how the handle is leaning back a bit if you flip the pic vertically? Better to have it straight or a tiny bit forward.
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Ok, I've straightened it out and thrown some lines on:
(http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/mikemeusel/Elm%20Static/Tillering_zpsk3h6ryux.jpg) (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/mikemeusel/media/Elm%20Static/Tillering_zpsk3h6ryux.jpg.html)
I think I may have had a few misconceptions - I've been tillering so the handle sits straight up and down at FD and the top limb comes a little bit further back than the bottom, using the straight handle back as a reference. I also try to have my arrow sit close to horizontal - the elastic draw check on the arrow bump it up a bit when it hits my hand, but the arrow is pretty close. Making the top limb work more would make that arrow sit a bit lower would it not? Should I be shooting for a bit more of an upward angle on the arrow?
I also thought with statics you could be more judicious with outer limb movement because they keep the string angle optimal throughout the draw. I guess I got carried away.
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You always want more limb travel where there is more working wood. If you make the outer limbs work too much they will chrysal especially with your limb profile, if not right away then over time.
The tiller looks better but you still need to get the inner limb working a bit more on the top limb, more so near the fade now
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Agreed. Just a smidge more and you're good to go! Make sure you are exercising it a lot now and also shoot some arrows at your tillered to drawlength, try to get a feel for any handshock there may be -it should disappear when the limbs are well balanced.
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Allright, here it is at 23", it's 53# there. I've been working the fades quite a bit, even took out the rasp and moved them in towards the handle a bit. They were more like 3" fades than 2" fades. Also gave the top limb a bit more bend. The top limb is taking a bit more set, so I'm wondering if I took it a bit too far. It shoots at 23" with very little shock, so It can't be far off. Let me know your opinions.
(http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/mikemeusel/Elm%20Static/VIDEO2273_0000020111_zpsxhsace0y.jpg) (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/mikemeusel/media/Elm%20Static/VIDEO2273_0000020111_zpsxhsace0y.jpg.html)
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What do you do now? That looks about perfect to me. That is a really sweet looking bow. I bet the chrony will like it to.
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Well, here it is a my FD. 54#@26"
Top limb took about 1" of set, bottom limb 3/4". Single heat treatment with 1" of reflex added.
FD
(http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/mikemeusel/Elm%20Static/VIDEO2283_0000037522_zpsmwmqn8r7.jpg) (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/mikemeusel/media/Elm%20Static/VIDEO2283_0000037522_zpsmwmqn8r7.jpg.html)
Unbraced.
(http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/mikemeusel/Elm%20Static/IMAG0922_1_zpsokl7t9hh.jpg) (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/mikemeusel/media/Elm%20Static/IMAG0922_1_zpsokl7t9hh.jpg.html)
Braced:
(http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo19/mikemeusel/Elm%20Static/IMAG0920_1_20150327115432490_zpsfnd6ygao.jpg) (http://s357.photobucket.com/user/mikemeusel/media/Elm%20Static/IMAG0920_1_20150327115432490_zpsfnd6ygao.jpg.html)
Shoots really nice. Hardly feels like 54#. I think I have to lighten the point weight on my arrows to make 'em spine right for this bow as it shoots harder than my straight limb 50-55#'s.
What do you guys think? Any suggestions for peaking and tweaking?
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That came out great, any time you come out with 1" or less of set you are doing something right.
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that is a nice looking bow!! congrats
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That looks right on the money! :)
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Very well done
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Sweet bow. I bet it shoots great to. Short hooks and light wood should equal quiet and smooth.
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Sweet bow. I bet it shoots great to. Short hooks and light wood should equal quiet and smooth.
X2 nice job
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That thing turned out very sharp. Can't wait to see it all shined up. Great job on the tiller
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Big thanks to everybody who gave advice along the way, and thanks for the compliments. I feel like i have a better understanding of the top limb-bottom limb relationship with assymetrical bows now. I'm very very happy with it. Now i gotta convince PatM to hook me up with more of those sweet staves.....
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Good job ;)
I agree with the point weight issue you mentioned.
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That finished up nicely. Let me know when you want to try another.