Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Johnny K on March 31, 2015, 08:19:13 pm
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Final pics on page two
Hi everyone,
I had finally got my tri-lam pyramid bow to where I thought I should begin tillering... However, after putting it on the tillering stand and slowly pulling it to just over brace height, the scale already reads 80#.
Is there some rule of thumb, or does someone have a guess how much wood I still need to take off to achieve a final draw weight of somewhere between 70-85# at 28"?
Also any tiller suggestions? I'm tillering this type of bow for the first time and am probably overlooking something... The way the tiller is now, can I safely draw the bow somewhat farther?
Thanks,
John
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Are you saying its 80 pounds with where its sitting at on the long string in your pic? Or its braced and is pulling 80 pounds a few inches past that?
If the former then its gonna be close to 80 pounds once braced and pulled to the mark your long string is at in your pic. Reason why is because the string angles will be similar. Your long string is too long. It should be just long enough to where it pretty much touches the handle.
Next... outer half of right limb is stiff...even that out then brace it n see what ya got then. Your prob getting close to your desired weight.
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Thanks for the reply,
I measured the 80# on the long string, I just hooked my scale to the string and drew it to where you see it in the picture, and the scale read 80#. So you're saying my final draw weight will probably be around the same once I actually string the bow and draw it to 28"?
I'll shorten my tillering string to brace height next time I put it on. Can't work on it now, storming outside... :(
John
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What are the demensions of that bow, what is the belly lam made of, how wide is it?
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Hi,
Here are the specs...
Length:
72" tip to tip
Width:
1.5" at the fades
1/2" at the tips
Handle, including fades:
9" non-bending
The belly lam is oak, the core purple-heart, backing maple.
The current thickness goes from 13/16" near the fades to 1/2" at the tips.
John
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I was finally able to work on the bow again...
I shortened my tillering string to brace height, and have worked my way up to full draw (as in the picture). Draw weight 75#.
Any advice for final tillering, or is it "good enough"?
Thanks,
John
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Looks OK from here....how's it look in the hand...how's it shoot? And get some real bow string ;)
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75#... now that's my kinda horse right there. ..
Nice bow
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Hi Blackhawk,
Thanks for the reply. This is how it looks in the hand, I haven't put any arrows through it, this nylon rope is way to thick. :) As for a real string, it's already custom ordered, and should be ready for pick-up in a couple of days... can't wait...
John
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75#... now that's my kinda horse right there. ..
Nice bow
Thanks! I hope it'l do some hunting this fall, I think the draw weight is perfect for that.
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Fwiw... of i can twist a string you'll have no problem
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Tiller looks good from here. Zip a couple arra's thru it before finishing just in case ya gotta do some adjusting. Check the build alongs for string making, real easy and something ya wanna learn. Pm me if ya need a string, no charge.😉
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Check the build alongs for string making, real easy and something ya wanna learn. Pm me if ya need a string, no charge.😉
:thumbsup:
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Thanks stixnstones,
That's a real friendly offer, and I would definitely have accepted it if I hadn't already ordered a string. But thanks anyway!
The reason why I'm not making my own strings is not that I'm scared of the process, it's more the apparent cost of getting started. Most places only sell a 1/4 pound spool of fast-flight of D97, and here in Canada they always seem to be more expensive... I can get 1/4 pound of fast-flight ordered for me by a place in Edmonton at $79.95 per roll. That means that, If I want to start making my own strings, perhaps 2 coloured Flemish twists, I'll have to buy material for perhaps 60 strings, and spend about $160.00 without serving material... That's why I'm hesitant...
Anyway,
Thanks again,
John
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U don't flemish twist fast flight as far as I know. And u can get rolls of b50 for like 5 bux at 3 rivers. Also if u don't have horn or phenolic overlays fast flight is bad
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Thanks for the pointer,
Just checked three rivers, 1/4# B50 for $11.75, but to ship it to Canada, the cheapest way would be $15.99. Kinda hurts to pay more for shipping than for the merchandise, but I may end up going that route.
Thanks,
John
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Buy two rolls and u will have two colors. And ull make ALOT of strings. Or buy strings.
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U don't flemish twist fast flight as far as I know. And u can get rolls of b50 for like 5 bux at 3 rivers. Also if u don't have horn or phenolic overlays fast flight is bad
I flemish twist ff strings, and if you pad the loops you don't need overlays at all
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Basically bows is canadian, one 1/4lb spool of fast flite is 40bucks without shipping. Not sure what shipping would be. I just use one colour. No need to be fancy. :) In the long run, ordering strings for every bow you make will be waaay more expensive, plus, when you make them yourself, with fastflite, you can make them with so few strands it verges on obscene, saving even more money. I can't post the link because they're not sponsors.
I flemish twist ff strings, and if you pad the loops you don't need overlays at all
+1
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Thanks for the tip!
I'll definitely check them out.
John
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The bow is finished!
70# @ 30"
String is BCY-8125 with muskrat fur silencers. The bow is finished with a water based varnish... (bad idea, it's starting to crack on the belly, but oh well, I'll try something else next time...)
Thanks for the advice and comments while I was building, I learned a lot during the process!
Notes to self for next bow:
Only two laminations.
Solid backing strip (no splice), so no "cap" is necessary on the back, hard to fade that in properly without sanding into the back...
Try a different finish, maybe tru-oil?
Reflex bow and flip tips for greater speed.
And now for the pictures:
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And of course a full draw pic... :)
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How worried/terrified should I be about this splinter I discovered on the back?
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Yeah, that's really not good. Fill it with slightly warmed super glue and wrap it, asap.
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I'd like to see the cracks in the finish on the belly, may be something more sinister like cryshals
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Yeah, that's really not good. Fill it with slightly warmed super glue and wrap it, asap.
I may try the super-glue Parnell, I don't see how I could get anything under the splinter though, it's so tiny (I'm attaching another image with a pen for scale)
I'd like to see the cracks in the finish on the belly, may be something more sinister like cryshals
This is what the cracks on the belly look like. There was nothing visible before I shot the bow after finishing...
Thanks, John
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That bow is done for my friend. Compression fractures all over the belly and a splinter on the back is certain death.
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That's what i was afraid of, anytime i hear ," i have tiny cracks in the finish on the belly, too bad i was a pretty bow, how much did you shoot it before finish?
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Fyi, oak wasn't a great belly wood choice maple back and belly with purpleheart would be good on your next bow
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Around two dozen arrows, maybe around fifty after.
I guess the bow is firewood then, too bad, I had hoped that at last I would make one to last... :'( Do you think I can shoot it till it dies, or is it likely to explode dangerously?
Looks like oak wasn't up to the the compression of a 70 pound bow... Would it be worth the effort to belt sand this one (belly and back) to a lower weight, make some kind of kids' longbow?
Will try different woods next time...
Thanks,
John
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Man that's a damn shame- it would've been a real fine bow. :(
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what did you glue it up with, tight bond glues will release with the use of a heat gun and a putty knife
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The main laminations were done with tight-bond three. Are you saying I could de-laminate and reuse some of the wood???
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If it were me I'd hang it up, and start on the next. 70# is a lot for oak on a belly I think.
If you find your self in vancouver Id throw you a stave if your short on wood.
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I build mostly laminates and maple never had frets or crysallis on the bellys. Strange...... ???
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The belly is oak not maple
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TiteBond glues will release at 150deg(F). I've used a heat gun and starting at the tip heat the backing(for belly too)and work a wood chisel or screw driver between the back and core. Once you get it started it will go pretty quickly. Just work the heat gun down the limb as the glue releases. Work to the handle then start at the other tip and do the same.
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Thanks for the suggestions,
I think it's probably not worth the trouble of de-laminating... I guess I'll just see about getting some new wood and beginning from scratch.
Thanks Wizardgoat!
I live quite far from Vancouver, in Edmonton, but if I do come that way this summer (there is a possibility), I might be interested in buying a stave or two if you have any to sell. You have Yew growing around Vancouver, right? All I can find on the pasture here so far is twisted Saskatoon and poor Birch... :(
Thanks,
John