Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Mark Smeltzer on April 10, 2015, 09:16:00 pm
-
Is it true that you cant buy Urac anymore?
Has anyone tried the Unibond 800?
Thanks
Mark
-
It's true. Unibond 800 replaced it. I have some but haven't used it yet. I'm sure someone will chim in on how well it works.. I would like to know if its true that it doesn't need heat to cure.
-
I have been using Unibond, can't tell any difference between it and urac. It cures without heat, takes 7 hours at 70 degrees, an hour at 90 degrees.
-
Thanks guys I guess Ill give Unibvond a try. I do have some Urac left I wonder what the shelf Life really is with it.
Mark
-
It depends on how its stored. I keep mine(Urac) in a frig and it seems to hold up pretty good. It was about 2 to 3 years old the last time I used it and that was 2 years ago. I haven't checked it lately.
-
Weldwood plastic wood resin. Less expensive, easier to keep, just as strong.
-
Weldwood plastic wood resin. Less expensive, easier to keep, just as strong.
X2
-
I've used Weldwood Plastic Resin over the years and really like it for glue-ups. Cheap, easy to use and cleans up with water...but I heard somewhere that it has been or is being phased out.
-
Unibond 800 is good stuff..
https://www.vacupress.com/veneerglue.htm
-
I've used Weldwood Plastic Resin a few times with no complaints. But, I have a question about it? It seems to always mix up a little gritty. Is it supposed to be gritty?
-
It seemed a bit gritty to me also but so did Urac.
-
yes, it mixes that way for me too. Always works though. I had some issues with URAC a few years back and switched to Weldwood even before it got discontinued. Have been very happy with it and since it in powder form, if kept dry, it lasts indefinitely.
-
...and its cheap. When I bought some a few years ago it was about $5 or a 1# tub from ACE Hardware.
-
Is weldwood a gap filling glue, suitable for Ipe to bamboo? I've been using Titebond, but there is some extra prepwork with that cause everything has to be super smooth to get a good glueline. I'm going to look up the properties, but I'd like to hear from people who have used it - do you need to acetone the Ipe, how smooth do you really need it to be, etc?
-
It should work well with boo/ipe. It is a gap filing glue. I toothed both surfaces and glued it up. I think fresh wood is a better
"de-greaser" than acetone or other solvents so sand both glue surfaces, tooth them, blow off the dust and glue it up. I've used a toothing plane and hacksaw blades on the glue surfaces, both with good results.
-
It should work well with boo/ipe. It is a gap filing glue. I toothed both surfaces and glued it up. I think fresh wood is a better
"de-greaser" than acetone or other solvents so sand both glue surfaces, tooth them, blow off the dust and glue it up. I've used a toothing plane and hacksaw blades on the glue surfaces, both with good results.
Got it, thank you!! I've seen that glue in the big box stores and always wondered if it would work well, guess I need to try it now.
-
I agree with Pat - - it is gap filling to a point, and I dont degrease. Rough up the surface with hacksaw blade - brush away dust and glue. Ipe - boo is usually what I use it for. Also ipe to ipe (handles).