Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => HowTo's and Build-a-longs => Topic started by: Josh B on April 11, 2015, 09:22:15 pm
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I've been planning to do this for a few months and just now got around to it.
First things first, we need a bow to glue the feathers to. This is a scrap of Hop hornbeam that was destined for Pappy's fire pit until I rescued it. 52 1/2" NTN 50#@26" eastern woodland style. If I can get it done in time, this should be on the raffle table at this years classic.
Next, you need some feathers. The source of these feathers is a tanned pheasant hide. One of these hides will provide enough plumage for an entire flat bow or several of these little skinny bows.
You will need a good waterproof glue. I'm using tite bond III this time. I used Elmers wood glue MAX last time and it worked fine. Scissors will come in handy for trimming the feathers. A bowl of water to clean the glue off your fingers and a towel or rag to dry your hands is a necessity. If you plan on using the tail feathers, you will want to shave the quill down on the feather. I use a flake of obsidian or chert for this. This one is a piece of chert from the KS flinthills.
VERY IMPORTANT!!! If you decide to do this project at the kitchen table while your wife is at a gymnastics tournament or some similar situation. Be sure to take all possible precautions to protect Momma's carpet and furniture. I have also taken the precaution of bribing my youngest two children into not telling Mom what Dad did all day and where. We'll see how that works out tomorrow when the kids talk to Mom. :-\
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Now that we've gathered our supplies and sidetracked the kids for a few hours with Hunger games movies. ;) Let's get started! I start by lightly sanding the bows back with 220 grit and then wiping it down with alcohol to help ensure good adhesion.
Next I pluck out the tail feathers and trim the quill so that the feather will lay flat to the bows back. I'm using a flake of chert for this, but if your careful you can use an exacto knife to do the job.
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Now that the tail feathers are prepared, slather a heavy coat of glue where the tail feathers are going to be placed. DO NOT COVER THE ENTIRE BACK OF THE BOW WITH GLUE! We will only apply a dab of glue as we go. Otherwise it will all be dry before you get to it. This is not a quickly done project. It took me over ten hrs just to apply the feathers the first time. This time took about half as long, but its still not a quick and easy project.
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This is only the second time that I've done this and both times the tail feathers were a pain in the posterior. After those are good and secure, it goes much easier. I use the feathers as they are on the bird. I rip a clump out, working from the tail to the head, trim off and save the last inch or so of each feather(gets rid of the fluffy part of the feathers) and then apply them in the same order as they are on the bird. I apply them in alternating rows of two and three, staggered like bricks. After you place a row, give it a couple minutes for the glue to set and then add a dab of glue for the next row. You have to spread the glue up onto the feathers in the previously applied row. You must be careful to spread the glue far enough up the feathers to get complete adhesion on your new row, but not so far that you spread glue beyond what will be covered..
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One nice thing about using a pheasant for this is there are so many different colored/patterned feathers on each bird that your options are limited only to your imagination. I tried to follow the natural pattern and transitions of the different feathers as they're found on the bird, but their really is no end to the possibilities. I just keep laying the feathers to a point that I know will be covered by the handle wrap and then start squishing out any extra glue and make a few minor adjustments here and there. Once the glue is dry, I then clean up the edge with an exacto knife. I do this before I proceed to the other limb so that i don't inadvertently damage/tear off my hard work.
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Once you get the edge somewhat cleaned up, it will show just how good of a job you've done so far. If it's not quite to your liking, too bad. You don't want to try and fix it now. Remember your mistakes and make the next on better. Now that the first limb is glued and trimmed, it's time to do the other limb. Do it the same way and be sure to pay attention to the pattern of the first limb and do your best to match it with the second limb. I've got this one as far as I can go for now. Now I need to let it sit and get rid of the excess moisture it gained from the glue. I'll start back on it in 4 or 5 days. Thanks for following along so far! Josh
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Lookin good Josh! Thanks for sharing. I've been wanting to try a feather backing for some time. Turkey season is right around the corner, I'm thinking a turkey feather backing is in the works for sure now!
Tattoo Dave
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Very cool, Josh. Very cool! 8)
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Very nice. Ya going to be there to put it on the table in person?
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Thanks for doing this josh, this is on my list for sure
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Thanks Dave! I hope you have some nice Merriam feathers to back a bow with in the near future.
Thanks Pat!
Thanks Steve! Unfortunately, I'll have to mail it in.
Ryan hopefully this will help you along a bit. I'm sure this is not the only way or even a good way to go about feather backing, but it does work for me.
If you have any questions or need more in depth explanations, I'll do my best to help. If anybody has any tips or suggestions of a better way to accomplish this, they would certainly be welcome. Josh
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It's been a couple days so I am now going to seal the feathers. I'm not sealing the entire bow, just the feather backing. There's still gonna be some residual moisture in the wood that needs to dissipate for another couple days. I'm sealing the feathers at this stage so that it is easier to clean up the edge of the backing without tearing pieces of the feathers off and also to keep wood dust out of the feathers when I finish sand the bow. I seal the feathers by applying six coats of tru-oil with a 45 minute pause between coats and then let it cure overnight. Tomorrow I will lightly steel wool with the flow of the feathers to knock down the high spots. Don't cut the finish down to the feathers with the steel wool. This is the stage where you will find out how good you glued down the feathers. If you did a poor job, you will have feathers floating to the top of your finish. If that's the case, wait for the tru-oil to get tacky and try to push the feathers back down with the cloth that you applied the oil with. The tru-oil will eventually hold them down, but it takes several series of coats to accomplish it. A note on tru-oil, this is the second feather backing I've done and I used tru-oil both times. The tru-oil really darkens the feather backing and subdues much of the iridescent colors(blues and greens). The next one I do, I will try spray poly acrylic. I would of this time, but I am concerned that it might crack over time and I have a limited time to finish this one. I'll try to snap some pics later today or tomorrow. Thanks following along so far. Comments, questions and suggestions are welcome as always. Josh
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Very cool Josh, thanks for the build along
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Thanks Aaron! I'm gonna be too busy to work on it for a couple days. Hopefully I can finish it up this weekend. Thanks again! Josh
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The next one I do, I will try spray poly acrylic.
Hey Josh,
I've done a few bows with feather backings....I made a mistake one time of gluing down the feathers with a softer material than the finish I used and the finished cracked when it was completely cured. The feathers put the finished further away from the back of the bow and being a softer material under the finish it was bound to crack on me.
Not saying yours will crack...just providing my experience.
By the way love those pheasant feathers. :)
DBar
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Thanks Bill. I remember you posting that, but I couldn't remember if you used poly or an epoxy type finish. Either way your experience was the cause of my concern. Hopefully, I can get back to work on this tomorrow. I'm running out of time to get this to Pappy in time for the classic. My boss seems to think that this work business has priority. What a crazy notion that is! Lol! Josh
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I managed to get the feather backing sealed with tru-oil. It took 4 repetitions of 6 coats, let cure, then steel wool. I then trimmed the edges using a sharp fine cut rasp, cutting from back to belly. Once that was done, I sanded the rest of the bow in preparation for finish. I applied several thin coats of tru-oil to seal the entire bow and left it to cure hard overnight. I only had a couple hours at home last night so regrettably I neglected to take pics of that process. The first pics are where it was left off with. Next I taped off a thin line down the edge of the backing to outline it in black. Using a sharpie I outline the feathers and do the lettering. Now I will give the sharpie ink a day to fully dry so that the tru-oil doesn't smear it so easy. That's it for tonight. Thanks for following along so far! Josh
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She look mighty sharp, Josh. 8)
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Thanks Pat! Josh
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Cant wait to put some tickets in for that.
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I'm glad to hear it Steve! I was hoping it was gonna draw at least a ticket or two. Lol! Josh
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Just found this post, that sucker's looking sweet Josh and man have you got patience. I'll be damned, now I'm gonna have to bring even more dollars for the raffle to get a chance at that bow too. ;) Sorry your not gonna be at the classic this year, will miss seeing you there.
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Thanks Greg. I hope you aren't too disappointed when you see it up close. The Kenebego is not the most ideal place for finish work. :-[ I've got it finished as good as its going to get, but it's not perfect by any means. As far as the build a long goes it's done. All that is left is to wrap the handle and serve the string. Thanks for following along! I'll post it in the bow section when its all done. Josh
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Beautiful and unique, Josh. Very cool. 8)
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Thanks Pat! I've been racking my brain trying to think up an innovative and attractive handle wrap for this bow for a month. Lots of ideas, but none that seemed to fit this bow. I decided to use a scrap of elk hide with some deer hide lacing in a simple tried and true style wrap. I think it fits. Josh
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Sweeeet
I gota find some money to get in on this one for sure !
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Thanks Guy! Good luck! Josh
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Josh, the simple leather handle wrap is perfect. It compliments the bow well but doesn't detract from its beauty. ;)
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Thanks Pat! Josh
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Well...as it turns out, mother nature made a liar out of me. It has been raining nonstop since last night so no photo shoot and that means no thread for the bow section. If anybody wants to see more of it, you'll just have to go to the classic and see it in person. While you're looking, you just well buy a ticket and drop it in the can for a chance to win it. Thanks again everyone! Josh
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We'll surely miss you this year Josh. :(
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I appreciate the sentiment Pat. I'll be there in spirit only this year, but next year will be a different story. If the post office doesn't drop the ball, the bow should arrive at Pappy's this afternoon. The piece of wood is an offcut from the hhb stave that turtle and otter gave to Del at last years classic. I thought it only fitting that it end up being made into something to help support the classic this year. I know it won't compete with that fine set you made Pat, but hopefully it will at least bring enough to cover the beer and food I consumed when I last visited twin oaks! Lol! Have fun folks! Josh
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Turned out real nice Josh. By the way, in the picture of the front profile I noticed you could probably use a little air in that tire, it's a little low.... ;)
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Turned out real nice Josh. By the way, in the picture of the front profile I noticed you could probably use a little air in that tire, it's a little low.... ;)
Thanks Aaron and don't worry bout the tire. It's only flat on the bottom! Lol!
According to USPS the bow made it to it's destination yesterday....hopefully intact. :-\ Despite the single cheek finish work, the bow shoots great in my humble opinion. So don't let the flaws in the finish hold you back from dropping a ticket in the can for it. It'll serve you well and it don't look to bad from 5 paces. Josh
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Here is the lucky winner of the bow. Great work on it Josh.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/Mobile%20Uploads/20150502_175347.jpg)
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Thanks Clint! I feel bad about asking this, but does anybody know this fella's name? I know I've met him, but I'm terrible with names. :-[ Anyway, I hope the bow serves him well! Josh
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Didn't catch his name but he is wearing a KTBA shirt. He told me where he lived in KY but I forgot.
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Kind of an old thread, but I recently scored some pheasant tail feathers from my cousin. I wanted to do one feather coming out of the handle wrap on each limb. Would the TBIII still work but use it more sparingly as to not have it show around the edges of the feathers? I plan on doing a shellac and tru oil finish. Thanks.
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Yep, it should still work. Remember to shave down the underside of the quill so it will lay flat. It would probably be a good idea to clean the natural oils of the feathers as well. I think the oils are what were causing me grief. As far as the TBIII goes, I wouldn't worry about using too much. Once you get your feather positioned, you can clean up any excess with a warm wet cloth as long as you don't let the glue set. Josh
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That was something I thought about along time ago but did not know where to start. Now I'm sick about all the feathers that got plucked into the wind. Thanks for sharing & great craftsmanship. John
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Beautiful! I guess I missed this originally. Now I know what I can do with all the pheasant feathers I've been hoarding.
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Thank you kindly fellas! Hobow if you do one up I'd sure like to see it. Josh
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I just re-read this thread and there was a thought on a different finish than truoil. I do use truoil on most of my selfbows, but I have had good luck with Minwax wipe-on poly. I know it dries clear without the amber color & I would use the satin finish. Just my two cents. John