Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Around the Campfire => Topic started by: Eric Krewson on November 23, 2015, 10:15:36 am
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I started building another rifle. This one will be a flintlock .40 cal Tennessee squirrel rifle. I got lazy on this one and had the stock preshaped, I usually do all the shaping myself.
The first step is fitting the barrel into the stock, most of the inletting was done with the preshaping but the barrel wouldn't fit correctly. I have been blacking the breech end of the barrel with an oil lamp and pressing it into the stock to find out where to remove wood for a perfect fit. I chisel away any wood that is blackened by the soot. A couple hours of soot and chisel work and the barrel fits perfectly. Inletting the breech plug and tang is next.
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Looks great Eric.
My dad used to sporterise a few military
rifles. I have watched him fit stocks on them.
Pretty tedious and it's got to be correct.
I hope you show us more.
Zuma
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Very cool Eric, I personally would love to see a build along of this rifle. Is that a maple stock?
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Hope this thread turns out to be a 'build-along' ; I would bet there is a lot of folks that would like to see how it's done and done right. Keep the photos and descriptions coming Eric. Haven't built one myself, I've stuck to buying my buddy's when he's done with them and wants to build another. Like you, he's quite the gun craftsman.
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I rather enjoyed the fitting of the breech plug and the subsequent fitting of the breech and barrel into the stock. The tedious repetition of smudge and scrape became a rhythmic dance. There is little second guessing like what comes with the external carving. The smudge doesn't lie, it tells you exactly where the next bit needs removing. On the outside of the stock, it's a lot more freeform and less forgiving.
Where'd you score the parts? All one source, or did you shop it around?
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Hey Eric,
Excellent choice sir.....my all time favorite ignition and caliber. Looks like you have this one under control as usual
rich
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Parts;
Green Mountain .40 13/16th barrel, got it on an eBay buy it now just after it had been listed for $75, new barrel, worth about $150.
Stock blank from Dunlap, profiled by Pecatonica.
Late Ketland lock from Chambers.
Everything else from Track of the Wolf.
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Here is the first step in a build;
The barrel didn't come with a breechplug, I spent two days fitting the breech plug in the barrel so it bottoms out on the breech face and lines up with a barrel flat at the same time. It is much harder than it sounds if you do it all by hand.
I will shape the tang to be spear shaped like a lot of Tennessee rifles.
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Looks like fun Eric, I'll keep watching.
Kevin
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Thanks for posting Eric - I'll be watching ! Bob
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I'll be watching too, cool project.
Del
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Very cool.. Will be following along
Thanks Leroy
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I did a couple of things yesterday;
The barrel inlet comes round in the breech, squaring up the breech face for a solid fit is necessary. I blackened the barrel breech and pressed it into the stock to mark the high spots. I kept chiseling away the high spots until I had a good even fit of the barrel to stock.
I shaped the breech plug tang to a Tennessee profile from the faired Lancaster style it was initially. I will refine it a little more as I can see it is a little fat on one side.
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Very cool.. Will be following along
Thanks Leroy
Me too I've always wanted to build one, so I'll be watching.
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This is too cool post, Thanks Eric. Ed
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For those of you considering a kit, here is the reality of what is available.
I hope you understand these "kits" offered by Track of the Wolf, Pecatonica River, Jim Chambers,Muzzleloader Builders Supply, etc are far from a easily built "kit". In fact, they could be more properly called a "box of rough parts kit".
Absolutely nothing will fit.
The only things that come close to being finished parts are the lock and the trigger. Even these parts require locating, drilling and threading the holes for the screws that hold the parts to the stock. The barrel will need to be draw filed smooth before it is browned or blued with the exception of a Rice barrel that is mostly finished.
The barrel is not finished. It is rifled but the sight dovetails are not cut and on many of them the breechplug is not installed. This applies to the trigger guard, butt plate, side plate too. These are just rough, unfinished sand or lost wax castings.
All of the parts will need to be inletted into the wooden stock. This applies to the barrel, lock, trigger guard, butt plate, side plate and ramrod thimbles.
Speaking of the stock, even it is just a moderately close roughed out blank which will require a LOT of wood removal to be close to the real longrifles. A precarved and inletted stock can be a good thing if all the shaping was done carefully and precisely, which is seldom the case.
Knowledge of metal and wood work is a definite requirement.
Plan on spending a minimum of 120 hours of your time to finish your gun. Actually, for a first build, a number like 180 hours would be closer if you want your gun to be something you can be proud of.
I'm not telling you all of this to discourage you. I just don't want to see anyone go into this with the idea that the gun will be ready for assembly.
Speaking of ready for assembly, Traditions, Lyman and Pedersoli offer kits that are easy to assemble and finish.
These are basically the same guns these companies sell but the parts don't have their finish sanding and finishing done.
These "Big Factory Kits" are indeed, true "kits" with all of the threaded holes located and finished.
They require something like 15-30 hours of your time to finish depending on whether you wish to make modifications like reshaping the stock or installing inlays or wire inlays.
If you want an actual historically accurate rifle or fowler the so called parts kits are the way to go but are pretty involved.
My first two gun builds were not from kits but from a block of wood and a pile of parts, this is called a scratch build.
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Eric,
My first black powder gun was a Thompson Center 54 cal. Hawken from a kit. It was just as you describe, sanding, finishing, put it together and shoot it.
I have been interested in attempting a more challenging build for quite a while, can you show more of the blackening and fitting of parts and I'm interested in learning about shaping and finishing the metal parts.
Thanks
Kevin
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Eric
Good advice given on the kits.. I recently acquired a 40cal smoothbore of spanish make.. It is a project gun.. Someone started and did a fast refinish job.. Nothing that can't be fixed with a little time and patience.. I would like to brown the barrel and lock.. Something to do after hunting season and xmas trade are over... Pics will be taken start to finish
Thanks Leroy
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Eric - a very welcome posting and your descriptions are spot on.
My buddy and my experience has been that not all the parts will even come in at the same time, stock, barrel and parts box arrived over a period of about several months. Things may have improved from a certain supplier since this occurred some years back.
Your time period for construction is about right, it takes a darn long time to build one. And the cost, well, these muzzleloader kits cost plenty.
Having said all that, muzzleloading is as addictive as bow making and primitive archery.
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I have yet to inlet a barrel or drill a ramrod hole, I send the blank and barrel off to have this work done.
Was going to do it all on the gun I am posting pictures of. I started with a cherry stock blank I cut myself but cut the profile incorrectly with my bandsaw. I had enough wood to work with but kept hitting bad spots in the wood. In the interest of completing the gun I bought another stock blank and had it precarved.
I wanted to get the squirrel rifle finished so I could get an .50 cal TOW Isaac Hanes parts kit I have waiting in the wings finished by next deer season.
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More work and small goof-up;
My barrel got so tight in the inlet from absorbing moisture in my shop I couldn't pull it out of the stock without risking breaking the stock. I needed to open the barrel channel a little. All barrels except Rice barrels need to be draw filed to remove the milling marks. Before I opened the barrel channel I thought it would be a good idea to draw file the barrel first to see how a slightly smaller barrel would fit in the channel.
I only draw file the flats that will show on a finished gun. The file is chalked to keep it from trapping filings that will scratch the barrel as you file. Draw filing is a two handed job but I needed one hand to hold the camera.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/tang%20shims%20002_zps2xsicwq6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/tang%20shims%20002_zps2xsicwq6.jpg.html)
Time to inlet the breech plug tang. It comes straight and needs to be bent to match the curvature of the gun's wrist. Whacking it with a sledge works for me.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/tang%20shims%20001_zpst7wlaain.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/tang%20shims%20001_zpst7wlaain.jpg.html)
A check with my pattern shows a pretty good match after 6 or 8 good whacks.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/tang%20shims%20003_zpskspdxq34.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/tang%20shims%20003_zpskspdxq34.jpg.html)
Blacking the tang on an oil lamp to start inletting it;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/tang%20shims%20005_zpsme6ouw2e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/tang%20shims%20005_zpsme6ouw2e.jpg.html)
Cutting down into the stock to fit the tang. I got sloppy here and didn't know it at first.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/tang%20shims%20004_zpsamj0jbbr.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/tang%20shims%20004_zpsamj0jbbr.jpg.html)
I might as well show the good and the bad. I had a couple of small gaps in my inletting as I went down, I hate gaps so I cut a couple of tiny wedge shaped shims to glue in my gaps. Trimmed, sanded, and stained and they won't show on the finished rifle. I cut the shims wedge shaped so I can insert them in the gap, the actual part glued in the gap is about 1/64" wide or less.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/tang%20shims%20006_zpsv7cdimkk.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/tang%20shims%20006_zpsv7cdimkk.jpg.html)
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Some time back, Del the Cat said a Master is not someone that does not make mistakes, but rather they are capable of fixing them as they arise.
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There is one kit that just came out that is for an authentic southern mountain rifle that is historically correct in every way and is an actual assembly kit, not a parts kit.
This is the first time a CNC machine has been used for stock shaping and inletting, the precision is incredible, the parts fit perfectly.
If you look up Jim Keibler longrifles and hunt around on his site you can find the kit, pricy but like they say "you get what you pay for". Jim's level of craftsmanship for the rifles he builds is about as good as it gets as pictures of his work verify.
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Very cool Eric! Thanks for sharing your build with us!
I was wondering if you ever heard of Chuck Edwards? He is a custom black powder rifle builder. He does absolutely amazing work. Plus he just happens to be my cousin.
Patrick
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I don't know Chuck Edwards but have seen him profiled, his work is top notch.
A little on inletting;
After I got the breech plug lug inletted I moved the barrel and breechplug to the back of the barrel channel and scribed a line in the stock around the tang with an exacto knife, I then followed the scribed line with a chisel cutting the line deeper. I filed a slant around the breech plug and tang so the top is wider than the bottom, this lets you inlet a piece for a very tight fit. You do this to most of the parts on a gun with the exception of the buttplate and nose cap.
I cut out some of the wood where the tang will go up to my line and blacked the tang. I tapped it into the inlet with a rawhide mallet. I removed the barrel and chiseled away only the black marks.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/Inletting%20black%20001_zpsppfq0t51.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/Inletting%20black%20001_zpsppfq0t51.jpg.html)
I repeated this procedure for 2 hours and almost have the tang completely inletted. I will keep going down until the barrel bottoms out in the barrel channel.
A word of caution; remove most of the wood from the bottom of the inlet, work the sides of the inlet very cautiously with a riffler file, just a little sawdust and don't remove all the black. The sides of an inlet need to be a press fit at first. If you use a chisel you will have a gap before you know it.
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The pics are great Eric, I'm learning a lot.
A few years ago I met a gun maker here in Western New York, Mark Robinson (Roby), he shows up here on PA occasionally
he makes beautiful black powder guns and accessories.
Kevin
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I used to know a guy in my historical recreation society who was a gunsmith. He made some pretty nice period muskets and pistols. He made most of his own parts since most of what he made was not your standard flintlock, he made a lot of swedish snap locks and even a few wheel locks. He had a hookup with an old military buddy that would get him spent barrels from various miniguns etc, once those things are burnt out they're useless to the military but makes a great smooth bore musket barrel. He made a pair of swedish snap lock muskets for my fencing teacher and his wife for a big anniversary and they are magnificent. The stocks are made from some timbers he managed to get ahold of that were found when they drained an old shipyard in new england somewhere and were thought to be over a hundred years old. He says he burned up a dozen router bits and a router shaping them the wood was that hard and dense.
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I finished inletting the tang and seating the barrel today, a nice tight fit, no gaps. Pinning the stock to the barrel is next.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/tang%20inlet%20complete_zps6hoqyf44.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/tang%20inlet%20complete_zps6hoqyf44.jpg.html)
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Nice fit Eric,
When you finished the inletting for the tang do you seat it a little lower from the surface of the stock to allow for final sanding or do you fit the the two parts flush and finish sanding both surfaces at once?
Kevin
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When I put the tang screw in it will pull the tang just a little lower for final finishing.
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Very cool Eric! Thanks for sharing your build with us!
I was wondering if you ever heard of Chuck Edwards? He is a custom black powder rifle builder. He does absolutely amazing work. Plus he just happens to be my cousin.
Patrick
I know who Chuck Edwards is!
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Time to pin the stock to the barrel so everything will be held firmly in place for lock inletting. On these rifles the barrel supports the stock.
First locate where you want the pins so they won't interfere with the ramrod pipes which are pinned to the stock but not the barrel.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/underlug%20001_zpswl6omqxd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/underlug%20001_zpswl6omqxd.jpg.html)
The lugs I will dovetail into the barrel are .052 thick so I need to cut a .052 deep dovetail in the barrel.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/underlug%20002_zps8crujpki.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/underlug%20002_zps8crujpki.jpg.html)
I mark .050 on the sides of my barrel flat and take out as much material as I can with a hacksaw.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/underlug%20003_zpslondqznd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/underlug%20003_zpslondqznd.jpg.html)
I square everything up first before I cut in the dovetails.
I make my dovetail about .010 undersized so I can file it larger a little bit at a time for a tight lug fit.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/underlug%20004_zpsubqc1mux.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/underlug%20004_zpsubqc1mux.jpg.html)
A nice tight fit;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/underlug%20005_zpsgcslfzzd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/underlug%20005_zpsgcslfzzd.jpg.html)
Cleaned up and ready to cut the next one, I will put three underlugs evenly spaced to pin the stock to the barrel.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/underlug%20006_zpsvbht7jsf.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/underlug%20006_zpsvbht7jsf.jpg.html)
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Next I inlet a slot for the underlug to fit it into the barrel channel. First I black the lug and press it into the barrel channel to locate the slot.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/lug%20holes%20001_zpshm4obpsx.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/lug%20holes%20001_zpshm4obpsx.jpg.html)
I cut the slot with chisels, files and even a dremel tool, I want a loose fit.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/lug%20holes%20003_zpsnesddmvl.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/lug%20holes%20003_zpsnesddmvl.jpg.html)
Done, the barrel bottoms out in the channel again. This lug may go into the ramrod hole, I will push a 3/8" dowel up the ramrod hole to make sure the lug doesn't block the hole and file the bottom of the lug off if it is in the way.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/lug%20holes%20002_zpswx993ynp.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/lug%20holes%20002_zpswx993ynp.jpg.html)
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Really enjoying this Eric - Thanks ! Bob
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Following
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In the very first picture there are two marks on the barrel one is clearly for the pin. What is the one on the left for, the Pipe location?
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Yep, ramrod pipe.
I won't pin the barrel until I get all the underlugs in place and inletted.
I use .078 music wire for pins and thought I was out of it. I found plenty on ebay but it came in much larger lots than I could ever use. I dug a little deeper into my random dowel, rod and pvc pipe catch-all and found some.
Next I needed a #47 drill bit to drill for my pins, it's diameter is .0785. No such animal in town, I found this out after a lot of calling. Ebay to the rescue, I have three drill bits on the way.
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This is cool. Thanks, Eric.
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I got all the underlugs installed today, waiting on my drill bits. I will show you all how I drill through the stock and hit the lugs with pictures when I get my bits. I always use a new bit for any small hole drilling during the building process, even with a drill doctor I don't trust used bits to go in right where I want them to.
For instance; if you drill a pilot hole for your touch hole liner and miss by just a fraction it throws everything out of kilter, barrel, lock and all.
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Cool build along Eric Thanks, and I thought making ax handles was tedious. ;) ;D
Pappy
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Eric,
What tools did you use for inletting the barrel? Did you do it all with just a hack saw and file?
Can you show us the underlugs?
Kevin
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The price of a new bit is a heck of a lot cheaper than the time spent fixing the situation I the bit wanders, or wore yet...BREAKS! (I am putting that trick in my trick bag for future use!)
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Wow. Super detailed work and explanation. I'll be bookmarking this one for sure!
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I inletted the barrel and drilled the ramrod hole by calling Pecatonica longrifles and telling them I had a blank I needed some work on. I sent the barrel and stock blank, two weeks later they sent me back a precarved stock with the barrel inletted and ramrod hole drilled.
I had planned to do it all on this gun but got hit by a lazy spell and farmed some of the work out.
I have a .50 cal Lancaster kit waiting in the wings and wanted to finish this one as quickly as possible and get on to the next one.
I was going to pin the barrel next but a pro made a comment that he didn't pin one until he had the tang bolt in place which makes sense.
So, it will be inlett the lock, install the double set triggers, drill the tang bolt hole through to the trigger plate, install the tang bolt then pin the barrel.
I marked the touchole location this afternoon so I can aim the lock's pan at it and get it "just right".
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Hey Eric, moving along pretty good. I missed the tang install. I noticed you did a great job resulting in a tight fit. When that gun fires over and over you want the barrel recoil hitting squarely on the back end of the barrel against the stock. The breech plug should be hitting the backstop. After many shots the wood can allow the barrel to move slightly further back than where you finish it. That transfers the recoil from the breech plug stop to the tip of the tang. Many old guns are cracked in the wrist because it was real tight. Everything settles in after shooting some. The remedy is to cut just a small gap at the end of the tang for movement. Fill the gap with burnt wax when finishing the stock. This occurs more on big caliber guns with big recoil, but just to be safe give it a little wiggle room.
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On the couple of guns I have done, I have always worried about just that issue, nclonghunter. Therefore, I cheated like a sonofagun! I used Brownell's glass bedding to make sure tang, breech, and at least the last half of the barrel was wedded 'right and tight'. I ain't too proud to break out the effing-glass, just so long as it ain't on a bow!
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I have built my guns to look old and used but they function at top level. I have spent a lot more time behind a flintlock than any gun I have owned. I took a picture of the tang on my Caywood smooth-bore and Mark Silver Rifle. Just a small gap at the end will do it. I need to put in a little more beeswax on the Caywood...lol.
John, you would think putting a srew through the tang and pinning the barrel would stop any movement but not the case. The key is to get the breech end as tight and solid into the backstop as possible.
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John, you would think putting a srew through the tang and pinning the barrel would stop any movement but not the case. The key is to get the breech end as tight and solid into the backstop as possible.
Hence the use of Brownell's in mine!
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I loosened up the tang yesterday and dropped it a little deeper so I would have solid barrel contact with bottom of the barrel channel.
After I get everything together and before I apply finish I clean up any "pinch " points.
I have always left a little space behind my tangs on the guns I have built.
Here is the just inletted tang on my last build, an english fowler, you can see the gap at the back.
What looks like a big hole on one side disappeared when I shaped the wood.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/English%20Fowler/besttanginletpicture_zps9dc9a145.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/English%20Fowler/besttanginletpicture_zps9dc9a145.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/English%20Fowler/graybarrel_zps14095d4a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/English%20Fowler/graybarrel_zps14095d4a.jpg.html)
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Still working on the tang inlet, when I seat the tang the barrel has been moving up about .010, a little more work last night and I think I have the problem solved.
For lock inletting you first have to locate the touch hole location. I will be using a 1/4" white lightning liner with the hole set at mid point on the barrel flat and about 1/16" in front of the breech face. All the wood on the top of the stock will be reduced to half a flat on the side of the barrel or a little less. This makes a slender gun.
Touch hole location and half a flat measurment;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/touch%20hole%20locating%20002_zpsg4v9h2c9.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/touch%20hole%20locating%20002_zpsg4v9h2c9.jpg.html)
Too much wood;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/touch%20hole%20locating%20001_zpsirghs0cj.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/touch%20hole%20locating%20001_zpsirghs0cj.jpg.html)
Rasping the wood down, I got a little heavy handed and took off a little too much on the opposite side but it should be alright when I tighten the tang bolt. and drop the barrel down.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/touch%20hole%20locating%20003_zpsl7es6n9m.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/touch%20hole%20locating%20003_zpsl7es6n9m.jpg.html)
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Here is clearer shot of my Walley World elcheapo oil lamp, a qt of their lamp oil lasts a long time.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/touch%20hole%20locating%20004_zpsowyesv5q.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/touch%20hole%20locating%20004_zpsowyesv5q.jpg.html)
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Yup, I bet that quart of lamp oil is cheaper than the amount of industrially manufactured spotting compound needed to do the same amount of work! And if the power goes out, try using spotting compound to add a warm glow to the room!
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Time to inlet the lock; first you have to disassemble it because you inlet the plate first the each internal piece separately.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20layout%20001_zpsyqdwj3sq.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20layout%20001_zpsyqdwj3sq.jpg.html)
Keep your parts together or you will regret it later.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20layout%20002_zpsyrp2jkes.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20layout%20002_zpsyrp2jkes.jpg.html)
Now to locate where the lock is supposed to go, I have to drill a hole in the barrel channel to locate the exact location of the ramrod hole. The front lock bolt should go through the web between the ramrod hole and barrel channel so I have to know its exact location.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20layout%20003_zpsswejhnbe.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20layout%20003_zpsswejhnbe.jpg.html)
I stick my fancy depth checker through the hole in the barrel channel and mark the locations on the lock panel.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20layout%20004_zpsjyoovjho.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20layout%20004_zpsjyoovjho.jpg.html)
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Eric, looking good. Really enjoying this thread. Sorta like getting to experience building one without having to do the work..lol
You ever just drill a vent hole rather than using a screw in vent? Like the originals.
That little space between the barrel and ramrod channel was the only real screwup I ever had. Ended up putting a half screw in the front on one gun. Had another that had to use a round file and slightly thin the bolt where the ramrod passed under it. I like your gauge for locating the ramrod depth. Good idea!
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I missed the web on my first build, I wasp waisted the front bolt so the ramrod would go all the way down. At first I just cut a notch out of the bolt but always forgot to pull the ramrod when I took the lock off. When I turned the bolt it would take a chunk out of my ramrod.
(https://i.imgur.com/UFKf4AI.jpg)
I won't hit the center of the lock plate nose with my lock bolt on this build, it is too narrow to have much wiggle room.
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Now, the tricky part, getting the lock in the right place, once you start inletting it's a done deal, no turning back.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20layout%20005_zpsgcukpvyd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20layout%20005_zpsgcukpvyd.jpg.html)
You have to file a draft on the bevel of your lock so the wood to metal fit is tight at the top of the plate. If your plate is square you will end up with a sloppy inlet 100% of the time.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/bolster%20inlet%20002_zpshdjdehkq.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/bolster%20inlet%20002_zpshdjdehkq.jpg.html)
The back of the lock plate has a bolster that fits against the barrel, this is the first thing you inlet so the lock will go down flush with the wood.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/bolster%20inlet%20001_zpswlbuqgzk.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/bolster%20inlet%20001_zpswlbuqgzk.jpg.html)
Once you get your slot for the bolster cut out the lock plate will lay flat against the lock panel. I use an Exacto knife to scribe the line for the lock inlet. This is a staged picture, I moved the lock plate around to have more of the nose centered as best I could over the web before i cut my lines, I couldn't center it perfectly but the frizzen spring will hide the hole.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/bolster%20inlet%20003_zpsok2txndq.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/bolster%20inlet%20003_zpsok2txndq.jpg.html)
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An interesting footnote; The camera I use is an ancient Kodak Easyshare model DX 4530. I bought one of these when digital cameras first came out, it cost $450 at the time.
After about 20 years my first camera gave up the ghost. These cameras were made rock solid, not like the beer can things they make today, I am told it has a Leica lense. Its 5MP takes much better pictures than any 10 MP produced today. I ditched the rechargeable battery and run with AAs which last a long time.
I looked on eBay for a replacement and found they could be had in abundance for about $20 or less each. I bought one in working order for 99 cents. I have a spare waiting in the wings if my current one quits.
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After a little measuring I decided my lock panel was much too thick. When you inlet deeply for your for your lock you tend to get sloppy because you can't see the inlet very well.
I filed off a bunch of wood and followed up with a sanding block.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20panel%20leveling%20001_zpsoid1zt64.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20panel%20leveling%20001_zpsoid1zt64.jpg.html)
It is important to keep your lock panel square with the top flat of your barrel as you go down.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20panel%20leveling%20002_zpsglnegna1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20panel%20leveling%20002_zpsglnegna1.jpg.html)
Before, my lock plate only touched wood on the top side, after leveling the lock panel and recutting my inlet marks everything is even.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20panel%20leveling%20003_zpscwui7jb5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20panel%20leveling%20003_zpscwui7jb5.jpg.html)
And down we go; black the plate, press it on the wood and remove the black marks only. Takes a while but you will get there.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20panel%20leveling%20004_zpscqjprbyv.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20panel%20leveling%20004_zpscqjprbyv.jpg.html)
Cutting the inlet for the nose of the lock is always difficult, I never have the right size gouge to fit the curve. Concrete nails to the rescue, I heat a nail, pound it flat and make a gouge to perfectly fit the curvature of the lock plate nose. After I get the gouge shaped I reheat it and quench it to bring back the hardness.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20panel%20leveling%20007_zpst96uxgoi.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20panel%20leveling%20007_zpst96uxgoi.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20panel%20leveling%20005_zps3ceiob4h.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20panel%20leveling%20005_zps3ceiob4h.jpg.html)
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Really enjoying this Eric ! Got My Trade Gun kit - that will be easy-peasy compared to Your work tho. Thanks again - Bob.
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Yeah, I love the whole "make a tool for the job" philosophy :)
I'm also on an archery forum that's mostly olympic recurve and compound (spits on floor)... those guys think that if it's not available from a store it doesn't exist and can't be done. (I'm only on there to try encourage people away from such nonsense).
The sad thing is there's a whole generation who don't realise you can make stuff... :(
Del
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I'm building a 50 cal Kentucky rifle from a kit. This helps with that.
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When you beveled the lock plate it looks like the widest edge is to the inside. I would have thought that for a nice clean fit it would bevel with the widest to the outside.
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Widest is to the outside, if you look at the picture again you can see I am taking metal off the inside.
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Ok that is what I thought. Some of the pics of you tracing or maybe laying out the hole locations look like they were pre-filing. That's what had me confused.
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The lock plate inlet is complete, I like to leave about 1/8" of extra wood around the plate and sand it down to the proper height just before I add finish to the rifle.During the build you will beat and bang up the outer wood surface a bit so It is best to have a little extra for "protection".
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20plate%20inlet%20complete%20002_zpsfsk621y3.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20plate%20inlet%20complete%20002_zpsfsk621y3.jpg.html)
The inlet is complete when lock bolster fits tightly against the side of the barrel.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20plate%20inlet%20complete%20001_zpsieo2tuig.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20plate%20inlet%20complete%20001_zpsieo2tuig.jpg.html)
Inletting the lock internals is next.
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To put things in perspective; This plate inlet took about 8 hours, maybe a little more.
Notice the blood on the stock under the lock plate, I can't work with sharp pointy things and not leave a blood trail.
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To put things in perspective; This plate inlet took about 8 hours, maybe a little more.
Notice the blood on the stock under the lock plate, I can't work with sharp pointy things and not leave a blood trail.
A gun, bow, or knife needs "life" in it. I can't seem to finish one without putting a little of me on/in it.
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So, now we have to make places for all the lock internals.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20internals%20inlet%20002_zpsvjqdnisp.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20internals%20inlet%20002_zpsvjqdnisp.jpg.html)
First locate all the screw holes;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20internals%20inlet%20001_zpsy4fbb40k.jpg)[/URL
I do one piece at a time and start with the tumbler bridal.
Line it up with the screw holes and draw around it.
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20internals%20inlet%20003_zpshmbqkcss.jpg.html](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20internals%20inlet%20003_zpshmbqkcss.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20internals%20inlet%20001_zpsy4fbb40k.jpg.html)
Make a stop cut around your pencil line.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20internals%20inlet%20004_zpsotzsblpa.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20internals%20inlet%20004_zpsotzsblpa.jpg.html)
If you are lucky you will have the correct size gouge to follow the curve for making your stop cuts deeper.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20internals%20inlet%20005_zps30bfqzpb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20internals%20inlet%20005_zps30bfqzpb.jpg.html)
And start removing wood;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20internals%20inlet%20006_zpsdk3g4ran.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20internals%20inlet%20006_zpsdk3g4ran.jpg.html)
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Eric,
Is there a reason why you did not drill the screw holes first?
Kevin
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Yes, no matter how well you think you have everything lined up, when I attach the tumbler and bridal to the plate with screws nothing is perfectly aligned. I get the bridal inlet pretty deep then put the bridal and tumbler on the lock plate with screws, blacken them, line up the nose of the lock inlet and press into place. I always have to enlarge or shift the bridal inlet for the lock plate to fit right. When I get everything lined up and settling in, the screw heads will leave a black place for me to use my drill on and have the hole in the right place.
My lock internal inlets are pretty sloppy, they don't show and I want everything to rotate without binding.
I will show this in my next step.
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My lock inlet will look like this when I get done, pretty hogged out looking. You go one piece at a time to retain as much wood as possible to keep the area stronger. You don't want to inlet into the ramrod channel if you don't have to. You will probably get into the barrel channel with your main spring inlet, you can reduce the spring width or notch the barrel to accommodate the spring.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/English%20Fowler/lockinletcomplete_zps1b294bd6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/English%20Fowler/lockinletcomplete_zps1b294bd6.jpg.html)
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My first flinter was a .36 cal Wilderness Mountain Arms. The person that inlet the lock plate went hog wild with removing wood and there was very little integrity left to hold anything ahead of the wrist area. and sure enough, that is where she broke. I had a real pro put it all back together and he filled in the lock mortise with Brownell's bedding compound and then properly rework the inletting.
I could bust someone over the head with that gun, Davy Crockett style at the Alamo and it wouldn't break again in the same place! And Eric is doing it right, right from the start! A lock mortise is sloppy fit compared to a barrel channel, but nothing that isn't downright cozy.
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After I get the bridal outlined I put the bridal and tumbler on the lock plate, blacken everything with soot and see how it fits my bridal inlet. It never fits perfectly so I start removing the blackened areas.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20spring%20inlet%20001_zpssp6imldb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20spring%20inlet%20001_zpssp6imldb.jpg.html)
Done, I removed a lot of wood to get the lock plate back in its inlet and fitting flush.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20spring%20inlet%20002_zpsl6dmgszd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20spring%20inlet%20002_zpsl6dmgszd.jpg.html)
Next I add the mainspring to the lock plate and repeat the blackened process.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20spring%20inlet%20003_zpsnwfupq9h.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20spring%20inlet%20003_zpsnwfupq9h.jpg.html)
Forstner bits are great for hogging out a lot of wood precisely.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20spring%20inlet%20004_zpsqqhw1aun.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20spring%20inlet%20004_zpsqqhw1aun.jpg.html)
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I like to see, and do good old chisel work by hand. :)
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This is the most splintery piece of wood I have ever worked. With the curl you can make a cut with you chisel and pop a S shaped splinter that will go down or to either side in a jagged cut, nightmarish stuff to work. My chisels are so sharp they will cut a freestanding hair but will still cause a runout in this evil wood.
You can't do an proper inlet with forstner bits, my chisels get a substantial work out.
I finished the main spring inlet this afternoon, no forstner bits hole are left visible, I went deep with my chisels. It all came out pretty neatly. I invested three hours in this inlet, carefully removing wood a smidgen at a time to try to stay out of the ramrod channel, I succeeded.
The sear spring and sear are next.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/main%20spring%20inlet%20complete%20001_zpsiduilz1u.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/main%20spring%20inlet%20complete%20001_zpsiduilz1u.jpg.html)
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This is the most splintery piece of wood I have ever worked. With the curl you can make a cut with you chisel and pop a S shaped splinter that will go down or to either side in a jagged cut, nightmarish stuff to work. My chisels are so sharp they will cut a freestanding hair but will still cause a runout in this evil wood.
Sure is flustercating, innit?
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Enjoying this build, wont be long till you're making smoke.
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Fun afternoon, I got some important stuff done.
First, the most important tool in my arsenal, my leather strop. I strop my tools between each black and check session. I don't have great quality chisels and they don't hold and edge worth a hoot.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/sear%20inlet%20002_zpsdz5lfpzn.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/sear%20inlet%20002_zpsdz5lfpzn.jpg.html)
I started my sear inlet by drilling a hole for the sear. I drill a little at a time and stop as soon as the tip of the sear quits marking the bottom of the hole. You feel like you are going to break through on the other side which would be really bad, go slow.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/sear%20inlet%20001_zpsyfzlpkyk.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/sear%20inlet%20001_zpsyfzlpkyk.jpg.html)
Done, almost, some of the wood you see in this picture isn't there on the finished inlet.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/sear%20inlet%20003_zps0jtqkzbo.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/sear%20inlet%20003_zps0jtqkzbo.jpg.html)
Success! Fully cocked and nothing binding.
It took a bunch of blacken, check and chisel sessions to get the pinch points removed so the lock would cock.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/sear%20inlet%20004_zpsnvjzlqd5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/sear%20inlet%20004_zpsnvjzlqd5.jpg.html)
The double set triggers are next.
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Two ways to go about this....yours and then the hog wild burn-it-down style. I use your style.
The old saying "measure twice, cut once" sure doesn't apply. You measure a hundred times!
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This is awesome Eric!
Patrick
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See that little gap on the top part of the tail of the lock plate? One erant swipe with my file caused it when I was loosening up the lock plate inlet so I wouldn't have to pry the lock out.
I soaked the area with water, hit it up with my heat gun and swelled the wood back out for a tight inlet, I hate gaps.
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That's one of the differences between a beginner and a skilled builder, knowing how to repair the mistakes....well done!
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Not to keep you all hanging, I have an update I haven't posted yet but backed off the gun to DEER HUNT.
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Not to keep you all hanging, I have an update I haven't posted yet but backed off the gun to DEER HUNT.
A forgivable excuse....especially if you are using another flintlock and are willing to post pics when you get one!
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Here is Sunday's adventure;
Tenn deer season has closed and I have public land in Alabama to hunt but my reports say the places are covered up with hunters.
Last Sunday was a perfect day, clear, cold and wind out of the N/W.
30 years ago I hunted an unlikely place on Freedom Hills mgt area, right off the main road, the kind of place most folk drive by to get to the deep woods. Freedom Hills is 50+ miles from my house, this has kept me away because I am spoiled by my 19 mile trip to the land I hunt in Tenn.
Cabin fever got the best of me and off I went for an afternoon hunt. I called a friend to tell him where I would be, he had been hunting Freedom Hills and told me he had never seen anyone pulled off where I planned to hunt, perfect.
When I got to the management area and "my" spot there was a jeep parked right where I planned to hunt, dang.
I decided to freelance in unknown territory so I backtracked about 1/4 mile and walked into the woods right on the area boundary. As soon as I got into the woods I started seeing tracks and rubs, lots of them, people had driven by this spot as well, there was no sign of humans, none. the place I found was no more than 150 yards of the main road.
I set up my tree seat on a rub line, raked the leaves back from the base of the tree and got ready. I didn't expect to see anything but the sun going down.
The wind really got up, swirling this way and that. In the mist of the tree bending gust I heard a crash, then a grunt. The wind died temporally and I could hear chasing coming my way. Grunting, chasing but I couldn't see the deer about 50 yards away in the thicket.
Then a doe went by at 40 yards like her butt was on fire, the buck was behind her but he was little more in the thick and I couldn't see him.
Round and round they went, just out of sight for over a half hour.
When it got quiet I use my doe bleat can trying to lure the buck into range, then I heard a deer coming from the other direction, it had to be a buck.
When I could see the new deer it looked like a doe coming straight at me, it had to be a buck, and it was. I have never seen such a big deer with only 1" spikes, a legal buck on the mgt area has to have 3 on a side. He was so lust crazed he walked within 15 yards of me, gave me a stare down, decided I wasn't a threat and continued on his way looking for that estrous doe he heard.
I heard the chasing off and on but the deer eventually moved on. I packed up at dark and headed home, exhilarated by finding a new spot and seeing some action.
When I got ready to leave the woods I pulled the trigger on my gun ( I sit cocked with a frizzen stall in place) and couldn’t get the sear to work and release the hammer. I cocked it back and it worked just fine the next dozen times I tried it. Something is binding, I ran into the same thing when I tested the lock just after I put the new mainspring in it a few days ago. I never polished the hook of the spring where it rests on the tumbler and suspect this is the problem.
When I got home last night I realized I hadn’t put the toothpick back in my touch hole. I always keep my toothpick in my right hand pocket so I fished it out and noticed the tip was broken off. I looked at my gun and sure enough the tip was stuck in the touchhole. If that buck had gone by me my gun wouldn’t have gone off.
I know, another long boring story, but it was a fun evening and exactly why I go to the woods.
Just a followup; I took my lock off, pulled the mainspring and found a casting flaw on the hook. It had a tit like projection right where it contacts the tumbler. The inside of the spring was really rough as well on the lock plate side.
An hour of sanding with 320 first followed by, crocus cloth and then buffed to a mirror finish with a dremel and buffing compound on a polishing wheel has my lock faster than ever.
I dipped my toothpick in super glue which soaks into the wood and makes it like steel, this should end the broke tip problem. Ironically; when I tipped my gun lock down the piece of toothpick fell out.
Headed back to the same place this afternoon.
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Fun adventure! thanks for sharing! Good Luck this afternoon.
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your supposed to use a feather so it doesn't break off. That's why yankee doodle stuck a feather in his hat, so he had it with him< or so I have heard. Sounds like a fun hunt.
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Good times, Mr. Krewson!
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Sounds like a good day enjoying Mother Earth ! Bob
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Great story, paints a picture for me seein' as i can't get to hunt.
Thanks for posting :laugh:.
Del
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My trip back to the same place yesterday was uneventful, the wind shifted direction to be blowing the wrong way, it was cloudy, cold and I ran a deer off walking in which is always bad.
I met my buddy at the "Coon Dog Cemetery" (google it, it really does exist) after dark. He had been snookered by a big buck that slipped in on him while he was grunt calling and got away before he could get on him with his gun.
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Good story Eric, season is over here so I enjoy reading stories from those that can still get out after um. :)
Pappy
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A little update;
I needed to reduce the side panel to match the lock panel.
One needs to keep everything square with the barrel. I started with a rasp and fine tuned the surface with a sanding block.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/truing%20up%20the%20lock%20panel%20001_zpsvxpms9m1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/truing%20up%20the%20lock%20panel%20001_zpsvxpms9m1.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/truing%20up%20the%20lock%20panel%20002_zpshxetlml3.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/truing%20up%20the%20lock%20panel%20002_zpshxetlml3.jpg.html)
I wanted everything even side to side so I could locate a center line on the belly to position my trigger plate.
I did a fine tuning fit on my lock inlet and internals and have it just the way I like it. But, I had it too tight to start with and cracked my lock panned while tapping in the plate. I have some thin, wicking Zap-A-Gap glue headed my way. Most of the wood you see in the picture will be gone when I do the final shaping of my lock panels.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/truing%20up%20the%20lock%20panel%20004_zpshq1at5m3.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/truing%20up%20the%20lock%20panel%20004_zpshq1at5m3.jpg.html)
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Good lord Eric. Great build. I think I this should be archived.
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A rainy day here, good time to work on the gun.
The stock is fat and will look real clunky if I don't take off some wood.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20inlet%20001_zpspmgffmo8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20inlet%20001_zpspmgffmo8.jpg.html)
First I draw in the future lock panels, some people make them way too thick, I like them thin. You can see a lot of extra wood under the lock panel.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20inlet%20002_zpsv0m3j0af.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20inlet%20002_zpsv0m3j0af.jpg.html)
The trigger area should be rounded a little as you shape and get rid of the extra wood.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20inlet%20006_zpsx7ypmbp7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20inlet%20006_zpsx7ypmbp7.jpg.html)
Checking for an even wood removal, I like to keep a centerline for perspective.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20inlet%20007_zpscambkycq.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20inlet%20007_zpscambkycq.jpg.html)
Locate where you want the triggers to hit the sear bar, I marked it with a dot. The adjusting screw in the plate is mid position on both trigger arms. I try to have both arms hit the sear equally. Not because I know what I am doing (first double set trigger installation). A distance of 5/6" from the front trigger pivot pin give one about a 3# trigger if you choose to fire the gun with the front trigger without setting the back trigger. I found this set of triggers to have this distance at the mid trigger strike point.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20inlet%20004_zpsly5mjsbz.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20inlet%20004_zpsly5mjsbz.jpg.html)
Here the sear location is marked on the lock plate, stock and trigger plate so I can line everything up. I disassemble the trigger and inlet the trigger plate first.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20inlet%20005_zpsqyyf5wf0.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20inlet%20005_zpsqyyf5wf0.jpg.html)
And down we go.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20inlet%20008_zpsf3kstjgv.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20inlet%20008_zpsf3kstjgv.jpg.html)
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Thanks again Eric - Really enjoying this. Bob
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Nice looking build so far. You have shown lots of useful techniques.
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Just like the lock, inlet the plate first, then the internal parts.
Got the triggers in and working just fine.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/set%20triggers%20in%20001_zpsrqmwpsyi.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/set%20triggers%20in%20001_zpsrqmwpsyi.jpg.html)
Here is the inside of the completed trigger inlet, the lighting makes it look really sloppy but it is much neater. You can see the lock sear in the picture.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20inlet%20001_zpsaqujlhnp.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20inlet%20001_zpsaqujlhnp.jpg.html)
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Why do these old guns have the double trigger? Was it an early attempt at a safety catch or just a(sort of safe) way of having a hair trigger?
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In my experience, it's for the hair trigger. In a rushed hunting situation, the front trigger works fine, albeit a longer and heavier pull than when it is set. But when you have the time to "set" the rear trigger, it leaves you with a great set up for extremely light pull.
I have gotten myself into trouble enough times with the set trigger such that I now exclusively choose to go with single triggers. If well placed, they are amazingly light. My swamped barrel Early Lancaster has a 1 7/8 lb pull.
I will shut up and wait to hear Eric's take on this. Every buyer and every builder has a different set of reasons. Take mine for what they are worth...simply my opinion.
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Oh, so you can shoot with just the heavy trigger. I was thinking you had to use both. I know nothing about these old guns(rifles? Don't want to offend anyone cause of a few grooves)
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Here is the thing about building guns; If you are building a certain style of rifle it just won't look right if you mix the parts. Most of the original southern rifles have double set triggers so If I am building one it has to have double set triggers to be "right".
My cold fingers and a light set trigger has let more than one whitetail escape it's demise through the years.
I set my trigger pull to where I actually have to pull the trigger slightly.The front trigger on this gun unset is about 6#.
I built my other two guns with single triggers. I am building a rifle with the attributes of a "Bogle" rifle with a similar buttplate, lock, trigger guard, ramrod thimbles and of course, double set triggers.
Here is my friend Joe Bogle holding a rifle the original Joseph Bogle built in around 1810.
(https://i.imgur.com/s8O4Jpe.jpg)
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Historical accuracy, forgot that point!
That Bogle rifle really hits on all eight cylinders for me. Plain wood, very little ornamentation, iron furniture, and really solid architecture. That bad boy is right in my wheelhouse!
Was just showing this thread to a customer in the store and he mentioned his father has a flintlock rifle he is interested in selling. Right off, I figgered a CVA caplock two piece stock junker. Then he said it was kinda fancy and had two barrels. So I asked if it was a "smoothbore" or shotgun. He said no. He said it had one barrel on top of the other and that shot "bullets". I said, "You have my undivided attention!" I gave him my phone number and email address. Tonite I am going home to squeeze the most out of my possible tax return and see what I got around the house that I can sell/pawn/trade!!! Dreams of swivel breeches dance in my head....
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Swivel breech, wow! I have to see a picture, of course it could turn out to be a drilling, some folk don't know one gun type from the other.
Joe has made 6 or 7 Bogle rifles, he forged all his mounts on the first one, made a the patch box and lock plate with modern internals so it would match the original rifle.
(https://i.imgur.com/6qMSRQ9.jpg)
Joe's first recreation of the Bogle rifle is a .54, here he is making smoke with his new creation.
(https://i.imgur.com/5XIKupy.jpg)
When his friends saw what he made they all wanted one but in percussion, there are not too many flint guys around. Most of the guns he made are .40cal.
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"Forties" are pretty economical to shoot, seem to be inherently accurate, and aren't so small that cleaning is a pain in the kiester.
Tell Joe I deeply admire his work and his dedication to going at it the "hard way" (instead of like me, buying a pile of pre-made parts).
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More to the story;
Joe wasn't a blacksmith and sent queries out the gun builders who were about having the correct pieces made, he was quoted $450 for the work. Too much, so he set up an old BBQ grill with a heat gun for air, made a forge and started banging on metal. It took about two weeks for him to get the hang of it, he has been forging his own mounts ever since.
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Up here in pensyltucky if I was to build a gun to hunt the late Muzzleloader season it would have to be at least a .45 and a flinter. No percussion allowed in that season and must be at least .45. The Bogle's are good looking guns
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calm your heart down a beat or two J.W., Dixie Arms sold a swivel breech gun, made by .....scrscchkttzztffztt, darn brain fart again, aww crap, they also made an under hammer percussion
boot pistol, and rifle.... Can't think of it at the moment. Ahhh, power up, it was a Hopkins and Allen. The rifle was called a buggy gun, and the pistol was a 10 inch barrel boot gun. I almost bought one, back in the early 70's, but the thought of the cap falling off of the upside down hammer system, and how to safely cock it, by turning the gun up, or not, so I did not. But that might be what the guy's father had. But whatever it is, let us know. Good luck, and I have my fingers crossed for you, that it is an original. I don't know if Dixie still sells them or not, or if the H&A company is still in business. I doubt it.
Wayne
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Time to drill for the tang bolt. This bolt goes through the tang and is threaded into the trigger plate. I use a drilling jig in my drill press to make sure everything hits where it is supposed to. I never get a perfect countersink on these holes but close enough.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20002_zpsakv8w3rc.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20002_zpsakv8w3rc.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20003_zpsrhu79hbn.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20003_zpsrhu79hbn.jpg.html)
Tapping the trigger plate;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20004_zpsrb0rrrix.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20004_zpsrb0rrrix.jpg.html)
Done;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20005_zpsck3prchr.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20005_zpsck3prchr.jpg.html)
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Drilling for the barrel pin holes is next;
The barrel supports the stock on a flintlock not the other way around. I installed three lugs under the barrel that I will drill for pins that will go through the stock and attach the stock top the barrel.
I mark the lug where I want the drill to hit;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20007_zpsbmwacqec.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20007_zpsbmwacqec.jpg.html)
Line everything up and drill. Hitting the lug goes well most of the time, in this case I saw the drill bit bend as it started in, and missed the lug. I always buy extra lugs, just in case.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20010_zpsdoxynkqr.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20010_zpsdoxynkqr.jpg.html)
Toothpicks hide the errant hole that came out in the wrong spot. They won't show on the finished gun.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20011_zps4mkffrj0.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20011_zps4mkffrj0.jpg.html)
The next try hit perfectly.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20012_zpsm552hqpd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20012_zpsm552hqpd.jpg.html)
Pin in and placed correctly;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20008_zpslbdcjqwn.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/sigmoid%20mouth%20flair%20up%20008_zpslbdcjqwn.jpg.html)
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Thanks, Eric, always wondered how that was set up.
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Here are the details;
I put a broken arrow with a field point in my drill vise and adjust it to where the bit hits perfectly on the field tip point. I drill a pilot hole in the trigger plate to rest on the field point, level everything up and drill. I have the barrel on a support with sandbags holding it in place so nothing can slip side to side or up and down.
For the barrel pins, I put the barrel in the drill press vise and line up the bit with the lug. Next I put the barrel back in the stock, put barrel and stock back in the vise, line up my marks on the barrel and drill.
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Time to drill and tap for the lock bolt. These pictures are staged as I screwed up my first attempt by trying to drill through the stock and breech plug at the same time. My bit skated on the breechplug and came out 1/8" high at the lockplate. It had been a while since I made one of these guns and had forgotten the exact sequence to get the job done. I did it right the next time and hit perfectly.
First step, decide where you want the bolt to screw in the lock bolster(thick part).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20001_zpsrsl6unch.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20001_zpsrsl6unch.jpg.html)
I should have just drilled a pilot hole on my first attempt but drilled and tapped for a 10/32 bolt which made an exact hit crucial. I didn't have an exact hit the first time. I filled my first hole with a dowel and redrilled.
Take your barrel out and drill through the stock and into the lock plate with an 11/32" tap sized hole.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20002_zps2vxmx61r.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20002_zps2vxmx61r.jpg.html)
Run your tap through the stock and tap the hole in the bolster.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20003_zpsayggzfmd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20003_zpsayggzfmd.jpg.html)
Put the barrel back in and mark your breechplug for drilling, don't try to drill it in the stock.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20007_zpsqz8cjtfd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20007_zpsqz8cjtfd.jpg.html)
Drill a generous hole for your lock bolt, you don't want any interference between your lock bolt and tang as this could split your stock when you fire the gun.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20008_zpstj9xzqsw.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20008_zpstj9xzqsw.jpg.html)
I open the hole even more. to be on the safe side.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20009_zpsbabp0mgd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20009_zpsbabp0mgd.jpg.html)
Test fit, perfect, I cut have to cut the bolt off to the correct length. I did drill a tight fit clearance hole through the stock after I was sure the lock bolt would thread perfectly into the lock plate.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20004_zpshkst3yfj.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20004_zpshkst3yfj.jpg.html)
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So, for the first time I have the lock and trigger reassembled and bolted in, barrel in and held tight by the tang screw, time for a function check;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20010_zps9rlikgxv.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20010_zps9rlikgxv.jpg.html)
The set triggers don't work. I pulled them and saw a tiny soot mark on one side of the trigger inlet. I removed the black mark with my chisel, reinstalled the triggers and voila, they work perfectly. The lock functions just like it is supposed to as well.
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It's buttplate time;
When you build one of these guns you want a perfect fit for yourself. To find out just what length of pull and drop in the stock will fit me I use a "try stock". Pretty simple but once I get it properly adjusted I can close my eyes, shoulder the stock, open my eyes and be looking down the sights with them perfectly aligned. I transfer the measurements from my try stock to my work in progress.
An adjustable try stock;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20012_zpszks4eszs.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20012_zpszks4eszs.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20013_zpstvqwvoiq.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20013_zpstvqwvoiq.jpg.html)
The buttplate comes as fairly rough casting so cleaning it up and getting rid of the casting sprue is the first order of business.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20011_zpsgn6dasy3.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/lock%20bolt%20011_zpsgn6dasy3.jpg.html)
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Still enjoying the heck out of this thread, looking good Eric!
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It takes a little grinding and a lot of filing to shape up a buttplate.
Getting rid of the casting sprue is first, the file is chalked to prevent it from picking up filings and scratching my work surface.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20003_zpsmgnihf3a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20003_zpsmgnihf3a.jpg.html)
Next you need to turn sharp edges into flat edges so you can have a clean inlet.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20001_zps60a7mqhm.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20001_zps60a7mqhm.jpg.html)
After filing out all the marks you can it is time for sandpaper for hours of endless sanding. I go to 220 grit which works well for browning.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20005_zpsofatjl1k.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20005_zpsofatjl1k.jpg.html)
Done for now, inletting it into the stock is next.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20006_zpsvihs0hcm.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20006_zpsvihs0hcm.jpg.html)
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Really enjoying this Eric - Thanks ! Bob
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Cleaning up rough castings is something I have always enjoyed. Sick, huh?
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Man, I knew this type of project required lots of work but I'm pretty taken back Eric. Wow.
Really interesting.
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I may have posted this before, this is how they did it in colonial times;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lui6uNPcRPA
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Measuring my length of pull for inletting the buttplate;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/butplate%20cutout%20001_zps7rxbnhjk.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/butplate%20cutout%20001_zps7rxbnhjk.jpg.html)
Marking the buttplate profile;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/butplate%20cutout%20002_zpsqzp4m1or.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/butplate%20cutout%20002_zpsqzp4m1or.jpg.html)
No turning back now;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/butplate%20cutout%20003_zpst3gsfqy1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/butplate%20cutout%20003_zpst3gsfqy1.jpg.html)
Rasping to my lines, I leave plenty of extra wood so I can jocky the buttplate into place as I inlet it into the wood.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/butplate%20cutout%20004_zps4d28adpn.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/butplate%20cutout%20004_zps4d28adpn.jpg.html)
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black it and chisel;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/inletting%20buttplate%20001_zpsudpcyufn.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/inletting%20buttplate%20001_zpsudpcyufn.jpg.html)
Getting there, I took a look at my installation from a distance and realized I had the buttplate askew. I lined up the return with the barrel and tang and started going down again. I thought this precarve wouldn't have any cast off but it does, another consideration on the final buttplate position. Glad I left some extra wood.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/inletting%20buttplate%20002_zpsyp6exbvn.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/inletting%20buttplate%20002_zpsyp6exbvn.jpg.html)
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The buttplate is pretty much in. I drilled the holes in the buttplate for the mounting screws and countersink the holes.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/countersink%20buttplate%20holes%20001_zpsgjv7fi6x.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/countersink%20buttplate%20holes%20001_zpsgjv7fi6x.jpg.html)
I don't think I have ever cut a perfect countersink. I have studied the proper way to make a chatterless hole, tried all the ways and still get lousy holes. At least the screw head covers up the less than perfect countersink.
The next step is to drill out your screw holes in the stock and plug them with dowels so you can drill them in the right place the next time. I like to pull the plate down with screws to get a good lamp black transfer for inletting. As you inlet deeper into the wood, the screw holes that were right when you started will be off center as you go down.
I have plugged the same hole 4 or 5 times and redrilled on other builds before I got just right.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/countersink%20buttplate%20holes%20003_zpspgblcygf.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/countersink%20buttplate%20holes%20003_zpspgblcygf.jpg.html)
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Finally, I have the buttplate where I want it to be, I redrilled the screw holes 4 or 5 times before I had them just right for the pressure of the screw heads to pull the buttplate into perfect alignment.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20trigger%20guard%20001_zpsy5q6pzui.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20trigger%20guard%20001_zpsy5q6pzui.jpg.html)
I filed off the extra wood and low and behold, GAPS! a few tiny ones less than the width of a piece of paper. My inletting was almost perfect, no gaps but changing the screw position changed things. This shot is after I filled a few gaps with shavings, can you see them?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20trigger%20guard%20002_zpsbqxdeqnn.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20trigger%20guard%20002_zpsbqxdeqnn.jpg.html)
It is a rare inlet that I don't glue in a few gap filling shims, they never show on a finished rifle. There are several in this picture.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20trigger%20guard%20003_zpsymlypiqg.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20trigger%20guard%20003_zpsymlypiqg.jpg.html)
Dressed up;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20trigger%20guard%20004_zpsaxy2tec0.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20trigger%20guard%20004_zpsaxy2tec0.jpg.html)
I have built two rifles from a plank, this is my first attempt at building from a precarved stock. Parts alignment is a pain with the precarve as the precarve is never perfectly cut out.
I have one more precarve kit waiting in the wings, after that one it will be plank builds only for me.
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Trigger guard time;
First you have to saw off the casting sprues, the trigger guard is pretty rough at this point.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20trigger%20guard%20005_zpsxvadhfw8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20trigger%20guard%20005_zpsxvadhfw8.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20trigger%20guard%20006_zpsrxqwtypm.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20trigger%20guard%20006_zpsrxqwtypm.jpg.html)
File off the remainder of the sprues and clean up the inside of the bow, lots of sanding ahead to get rid of the file marks.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20trigger%20guard%20008_zps0p1ye5zg.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20trigger%20guard%20008_zps0p1ye5zg.jpg.html)
The guard is held in place by the lugs you see in the picture. The lugs are inletted into the stock and pinned into place like the barrel was.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20trigger%20guard%20007_zpscmlstgct.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/buttplate%20trigger%20guard%20007_zpscmlstgct.jpg.html)
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Is there any reason that the butt is screwed on but the trigger guard is pinned?
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I suspect the buttplate needs a really secure attachment and needs to be tightened down into place because of the complex inlet, the screws are really large.
The trigger guard can be pinned or screwed on. Many Tennessee rifles have their trigger guards held by screws, for other style rifles a pin in the front and a screw in the back is real common. A screw in the front may end up in the ramrod channel.
I am building a Bogle like rifle which has the trigger guard pinned.
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This step takes me days and leaves me with several sore fingers; filing out the casting marks then sanding, and more sanding.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/trigger%20guard%20clean-up%20001_zpsbzsp6fi3.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/trigger%20guard%20clean-up%20001_zpsbzsp6fi3.jpg.html)
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I make a lot of countersinks in material at work and one of the most important to making a smooth one is rigid mounting. The next thin I would do is get rid of the 2 flute countersink and get one that is six. slow down the rpm and use a bit of oil. I am loving your build along. Always something I wanted to try and maybe will start on another project t and build confidence to do this.
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You do several things differently than I have, and on more than one occasion I have almost jumped in and said, "Don't do it that way, do it this way." So far, I have held my tongue and spent time considering why you have done what you have done. By doing this, I have added a couple tricks to my trick bag, so thanks for that!
I know a guy that was really tired one night, but had vowed to do a little every day on his rifle build. That night he decided to use his Dremel and a cutoff wheel to remove the casting sprues from the triggerguard. The next morning he called around town to find someone that would be willing to braze the bosses back on so that he could pin the @#$% thing to the stock! I am not going to embarrass the fellow, as I know he reads these posts, but his initials are John William Halverson.
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Does this look familiar JW?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/English%20Fowler/triggerguardunderlug_zpscf329d7f.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/English%20Fowler/triggerguardunderlug_zpscf329d7f.jpg.html)
One of my major goofups was to try to drill a pin hole for the trigger guard lug through the wood and lug at the same on my fowler. My bit hit the lug, went screech and broke off deep in the wood. I tried to drill from the other side and screech, pow, another bit broken off deep in the wood and lug.
The lug was pinned but not in the manner I wanted and never coming off. I hadn't shaped the wood yet plus there was a philips head screw temporarily holding the back of the trigger plate in which is muzzleloader blasphemy.
I shaped the wood with a chisel and piece of sandpaper, it took forever.
A guy on one of the gun building forums said to get a 1/16" carbide bit and put it into in my errant hole with only the weight of the electric drill on it and let it eat. I started seeing metal shavings after about 15 minutes and pow, it made it through lug, eating up the broken drill bit on the way.
I got the trigger guard off, removed the phillips screw, made a new lug as shown above, redrilled and everything was fine.
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Well, I will start with a typical gun building tale of woe; My rear trigger wouldn't fit in the trigger guard and needed to be bent a little. I heated it and bent it, pretty good but I went to far so I tapped it cold with my hammer, Bang!, it broke intwo. I ground the ends at a long bevel and used solder paste to stick the parts back together. I will order a new back trigger so I can brown it without a line showing but this will work for now.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/trigger%20guard%20inlet%20001_zpsqz9gfjjt.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/trigger%20guard%20inlet%20001_zpsqz9gfjjt.jpg.html)
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Trigger guard inlet; lay out some center lines.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/trigger%20guard%20inlet%20002_zps9u3lrdxb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/trigger%20guard%20inlet%20002_zps9u3lrdxb.jpg.html)
Cut slots for the luggs;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/trigger%20guard%20inlet%20003_zpsjixdlqhp.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/trigger%20guard%20inlet%20003_zpsjixdlqhp.jpg.html)
Test fit, lugs in the slots. One would think a steel trigger guard would be cast straight, this one had all kinds of surprises, twisted on the ends, ends out of alignment and such. I would inlet a little, tweek the trigger guard to try to get it to lay flat and repeat. I finally got it fitting pretty good.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/trigger%20guard%20inlet%20004_zpsntiayysk.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/trigger%20guard%20inlet%20004_zpsntiayysk.jpg.html)
Outline the trigger guard with an exacto knife.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/trigger%20guard%20inlet%20006_zps3faoggns.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/trigger%20guard%20inlet%20006_zps3faoggns.jpg.html)
Down we go;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/trigger%20guard%20inlet%20007_zpsvuvatnea.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/trigger%20guard%20inlet%20007_zpsvuvatnea.jpg.html)
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I can almost smell the powder burning....looking good.
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I am going to call the trigger guard inlet done. I still have to drill for the pins to hold it in place but that's no big deal.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/deck%20view%20food%20plot%20001_zps0aqwujh2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/deck%20view%20food%20plot%20001_zps0aqwujh2.jpg.html)
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Ramrod pipe time.
The gun I am making a loose copy of has hand filed flats and wedding rings in the pipes which I will try to duplicate.
The pipe on the left has an hours work in it, the one on the right is what I started with.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20pipes_zpsavyntl6e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20pipes_zpsavyntl6e.jpg.html)
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Great thread, it's the little fixes and mistakes and perseverance that separates the men from the boys.
Thanks for taking the time to post.
Del
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Nicely done Eric, best how to thread on building a long rifle I've read to date. Kudos to your patience, skill and taking the time to photograph and document. Thanks again.
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SWEETTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
I've built 3 in the past.
Just like building a bow useing it. FLINT LOCK IS AS FAR BACK AS YOU CAN GO WITH A RIFLE.
GREAT JOB
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The tabs are too big on the pipes so I cut them back a bit so I have less of a slot to cut.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20pipe%20inlet%20001_zpssthqxgil.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20pipe%20inlet%20001_zpssthqxgil.jpg.html)
Marking where to inlet a slot for the tab;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20pipe%20inlet%20002_zpsrsr06zu4.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20pipe%20inlet%20002_zpsrsr06zu4.jpg.html)
The tab was a little too tall and I was hitting the barrel so I ground a little more off.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20pipe%20inlet%20003_zps98crvs7q.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20pipe%20inlet%20003_zps98crvs7q.jpg.html)
I make a variety of el-cheapo special tools for working on my gun. Tool snobs will gasp at my crude creations but they work for an intended purpose. Here is a horseshoe nail chisel and a flea market screwdriver turned into a skew chisel to clean out the slots.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20pipe%20inlet%20004_zpst3knpjoj.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20pipe%20inlet%20004_zpst3knpjoj.jpg.html)
First soot marking, I outlined the front and rear of the pipe with an exacto knife.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20pipe%20inlet%20005_zpsyyljizmk.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20pipe%20inlet%20005_zpsyyljizmk.jpg.html)
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When you tap the pipe to get a soot transfer be sure to put a 3/8" dowel in the pipe. If you don't, the pipe will flatten a little (or a lot) and you inletting will be way off. I remembered this tip a little too late while inletting this pipe.........
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20pipes%20004_zpsiecf2gpb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20pipes%20004_zpsiecf2gpb.jpg.html)
First pipe in, OK job not great. Be sure to mark the front end so you put it in the inlet the same every time.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20pipes%20001_zpsvhvlqiu0.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20pipes%20001_zpsvhvlqiu0.jpg.html)
If you use chisels a carving mallet is a must. I have my granddaughters make them for me on my hobby lathe.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/Taylor%20turning%20mallet_zpsftuforzi.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/Taylor%20turning%20mallet_zpsftuforzi.jpg.html)
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Nice mallet. I tend to pick up a chunka whatever comes to hand, including a big steel splitting wedge from time to time. I could use a nice mallet like that. Does she take custom orders???
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There are several parts on a rifle that are a pain to inlet because you have to line up several things just right to get them to work. Butt plates and ramrod entry pipes are my least favorite.
Ramrod entry pipe, here we go.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/entry%20pipe%20inlet%20003_zpschvflqoe.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/entry%20pipe%20inlet%20003_zpschvflqoe.jpg.html)
Because all the pipes are the same size it is much easier to inlet one of the other pipes into the ramrod channel where the entry pipe will go so you have this part of the inlet done for the most part.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/entry%20pipe%20inlet%20004_zpsdubduwhr.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/entry%20pipe%20inlet%20004_zpsdubduwhr.jpg.html)
After you get the basic pipe inlet done it is black and chisel the pipe return down into the wood. It is a good idea to put a piece of wood across your ramrod groove while you chisel because you are going to slip, especially while trying to cut very curly wood and gouge out a place in the wood below you didn't want to make a cut in.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/entry%20pipe%20inlet%20001_zps80xpkrwz.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/entry%20pipe%20inlet%20001_zps80xpkrwz.jpg.html)
This will be a long process, I just got started.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/entry%20pipe%20inlet%20005_zpsuswetl6b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/entry%20pipe%20inlet%20005_zpsuswetl6b.jpg.html)
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I was getting sloppy with the entry pipe inlet and put things aside to regroup. I made arrows, worked on my shooting, traveled to my first tournament in a year, tilling everyone's garden and will be working on a bow for a few days.
All this should clear my head and have me back in flintlock mode shortly. I have not stopped the process and pictures, I just took a break.
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Sometimes you got to walk away..
Thanks Leroy
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Back to work;
I have worked on the entry pipe inlet for a day or so, slow going to keep a tight inlet and get the dang thing in place.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20entry%20pipe%20001_zpsmoycgzww.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20entry%20pipe%20001_zpsmoycgzww.jpg.html)
The inlet looks really good and tight but ramrod won't go in the forestock. Blackening the end of a ramrod I find I need to go about 1/16" deeper with the pipe. Getting everything lined up on these is a pain. I got a little chipping on the forestock but will file this away when I bring the wood down to the metal.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20entry%20pipe%20002_zpswhuyq8xy.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/ramrod%20entry%20pipe%20002_zpswhuyq8xy.jpg.html)
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Thanks Eric really enjoy following this post........
DBar
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Finally! I hate to admit how long it took for me to ease this entry pipe into place, at least two full days, but then again, I work really slowly to keep from goofing up. It always amazes me how how perfectly a part fits in the wood with the black and chisel method. I have a very tight inlet on this piece, the ramrod slides in with no resistance.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/entry%20pipe%20finished%20001_zpstoki64gu.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/entry%20pipe%20finished%20001_zpstoki64gu.jpg.html)
I am going to pin the trigger guard and all the ramrod pipes next. After that I am going to do something simple and easy; inlet and install the toe plate .
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I decided to pin the ramrod pipes and trigger guard today, what a disaster!
I located the lugs first;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/barrel%20pins%20001_zpsmh0lrlpk.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/barrel%20pins%20001_zpsmh0lrlpk.jpg.html)
Measured where i wanted the pin to go through with my handy dandy el cheapo pin locator.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/barrel%20pins%20003_zpsvrpbooz8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/barrel%20pins%20003_zpsvrpbooz8.jpg.html)
After marking the drill entry point is was off to the drill press;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/barrel%20pins%20005_zpsvdw2chq1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/barrel%20pins%20005_zpsvdw2chq1.jpg.html)
The first one went perfectly.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/barrel%20pins%20006_zpstmq63xxk.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/barrel%20pins%20006_zpstmq63xxk.jpg.html)
Things went downhill from there, my bit wandered on the next one so I plugged the errant of side hole with glue and a toothpick and redrilled, everything came out fine on the next try, same for the entry pipe. All the pipes are pinned and looking good except for a couple of toothpick patched holes.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/barrel%20pins%20009_zpsc6etvglk.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/barrel%20pins%20009_zpsc6etvglk.jpg.html)
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Next I tackled the pins on the trigger guard, this is where things went really bad. After measuring carefully I drilled my holes and almost missed the lugs. I decided to do the whole process over, plugged the bad holes and redrilled, the back lug went good this time so I tapped a pin in the hole. The pin chipped out a big place on the off side, dang, time for a patch to fill the chip. The parts that chipped out were in tiny splinters and unrecoverable.
I chiseled out a small square, made a maple plug to fit it and pounded the plug tightly into the mortise with plenty of wood glue. These tend to be pretty hard to find after the rifle is finished but I still hate I had to make a patch.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/barrel%20pins%20007_zpswr9clk5n.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/barrel%20pins%20007_zpswr9clk5n.jpg.html)
Now things went really, really bad; I drilled for the front lug and came out way low on the off side. I plugged the hole and redrilled , everything looked good. When I tapped in a pin it came out the plugged hole, not good. I plugged the hole again and ran a drill bit through the lug and hole to line things up. The dang drill bit broke off in the lug.
The only way to get it out was to put a punch in from the opposite side. A couple of taps and the piece of broken pit popped out the other side. When the broken bit came out it took a splintered 3/4" section of my lock mortise with it. What a mess!
Fortunately all the splintered parts were still attached at the ends and fit back perfectly where they came from. Some glue and a tight string put the parts back into place. The curly maple stock blank I am using is the more prone to splintering than any wood I have used so far.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/barrel%20pins%20008_zpsmm4zst3d.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/barrel%20pins%20008_zpsmm4zst3d.jpg.html)
After I got everything glued into place I put up my tools and cut the lights out in my shop, tomorrow I will straighten out my goof-ups and move forward.
I unwrapped the badly cracked area this morning. The fix came out really well. The circle is the pin hole filled up with glue.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20guard%20crack%20fix%20001_zpsvfdmdsps.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/trigger%20guard%20crack%20fix%20001_zpsvfdmdsps.jpg.html)
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Eric,
There are times when the stars are not aligned and it sounds like this was one of those days for you.
That curly maple can be a pain to work with sometimes too. It looks nice but a "pain"...
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I found if I tried to a put a pin in from the left side it came out the plugged hole, from the right it went where where it was supposed to go. Anyway, a pin tapped in from the right worked perfectly (I had to plug the low hole one more time). The area around the pin was a broken mass of splinters, it went back together nicely.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/pinned%20success%20001_zpsvwai2wup.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/pinned%20success%20001_zpsvwai2wup.jpg.html)
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Curly maple can make you so mad your cussing will curl someone's hair, and if they have curly hair already, it will blister it off! >:(
Doesn't stop you from choosing it over and over again, though! >:D
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Looking back; I think my problems came from using a random bit. I always use a new bit for drilling these types of holes. I bought two new bits but they got mixed up with the rest of my bit collection and I suspect I drilled with a dull bit.
These are pretty small holes, I use a #47 bit which is .0765,the pin is .0770.
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Toe plate time, pretty easy compared to the other stuff. I did have a few bumps in the road. Somehow I got my inlet for the front part a little too wide so I peened the metal a little to expand it and make it fit my oversized inlet.
Starting out;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/toe%20plate%20001_zps7ycz16tg.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/toe%20plate%20001_zps7ycz16tg.jpg.html)
First fit, holes countersunk, front end peened to make it a little bigger;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/toe%20plate%20002_zpsukhpfi87.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/toe%20plate%20002_zpsukhpfi87.jpg.html)
In, tight fit, sanded and filed to match the buttplate and stock profile.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/toe%20plate%20004_zps9zigpyqd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/toe%20plate%20004_zps9zigpyqd.jpg.html)
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Time for the muzzle cap; first I have to bring the extra wood on the forestock along side the barrel down to half the barrel side flat. I make a line on the barrel to work to (I didn't like the line in the picture and redrew it).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%20002_zpslcvk8r0d.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%20002_zpslcvk8r0d.jpg.html)
I rasp and finish sand the side rails down to my line, I want them even with no dips;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%20003_zpsiv9u3mis.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%20003_zpsiv9u3mis.jpg.html)
Next I measure the distance the muzzle cap needs to fit properly;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%20009_zps2dnptwp4.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%20009_zps2dnptwp4.jpg.html)
Cut a little excess wood off;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%20006_zpsgop7geqh.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%20006_zpsgop7geqh.jpg.html)
Fit the muzzle cap to the barrel, it needs adjustment to make it wider;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%20005_zpssom7uada.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%20005_zpssom7uada.jpg.html)
Good enough;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%20004_zpsfx94ttdc.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%20004_zpsfx94ttdc.jpg.html)
More to follow later.
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Great build along! I'm loving it.
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I was about to order a sideplate and thought "why not make one", here goes;
I drew a design first;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/sidelplate%20001_zpstuqhby8o.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/sidelplate%20001_zpstuqhby8o.jpg.html)
Glued the pattern to my strip of metal and sawed off as much excess metal as I could;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/sidelplate%20003_zps2fybtndh.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/sidelplate%20003_zps2fybtndh.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/sidelplate%20004_zps8lym2wmg.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/sidelplate%20004_zps8lym2wmg.jpg.html)
Saw, bench grinder and a finish up with a file to shape the plate;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/sidelplate%20005_zpskbdrmn81.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/sidelplate%20005_zpskbdrmn81.jpg.html)
Drilling for the lock bolt;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/sidelplate%20006_zpsarj5f6oi.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/sidelplate%20006_zpsarj5f6oi.jpg.html)
My initial design was much too big so I shortened the bottom of the plate for a better fit to the side panel, I may take off more later. The plate will look much better after I inlet it and finish the metal.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/sidelplate%20008_zpsxr6blmjy.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/sidelplate%20008_zpsxr6blmjy.jpg.html)
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Back to the muzzle cap;
I took of off a bunch of wood and have been test fitting the nose cap, a little black to remove;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%202%20001_zpsrwu0bqgc.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%202%20001_zpsrwu0bqgc.jpg.html)
Getting close;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%202%20002_zpsipmrowb1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%202%20002_zpsipmrowb1.jpg.html)
The basic inlet is done but I have to move the cap back about 1/8" to bottom out on the wood at the front of the barrel.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%202%20003_zpsboomcqyv.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/nose%20cap%202%20003_zpsboomcqyv.jpg.html)
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I have the muzzle cap back where I want it;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/muzzle%20cap%20001_zpsprhlalri.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/muzzle%20cap%20001_zpsprhlalri.jpg.html)
I am going to fasten it with an 8-32 screw and make the screw look like a rivet.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/muzzle%20cap%20002_zps0lpzzk6g.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/muzzle%20cap%20002_zps0lpzzk6g.jpg.html)
I drilled for the screw, of course something shifted during the process and I am a little off center.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/muzzle%20cap%20003_zpspycnjy53.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/muzzle%20cap%20003_zpspycnjy53.jpg.html)
I tapped the hole for an 8-32 thread ,counter sunk the wood for the screw head and installed the screw. I coated the area with Zap A gap superglue to harden the wood where the screw goes through.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/muzzle%20cap%20005_zpsknuibqhb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/muzzle%20cap%20005_zpsknuibqhb.jpg.html)
Blurry pic;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/muzzle%20cap%20004_zpsf4ygkazm.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/muzzle%20cap%20004_zpsf4ygkazm.jpg.html)
I used a jeweler's saw to cut the excess screw off. I can get really close to the cap with it because it has such a fine blade;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/muzzle%20cap%20007_zpsyzxftnkv.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/muzzle%20cap%20007_zpsyzxftnkv.jpg.html)
Filed the screw flush with cap and called it done. I had to file the inside of the cap a little to get the barrel to drop in and out easily. I will sand all the metal on the gun to 320 grit before I grey the parts. The picture makes everything look lopsided but all is even.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/muzzle%20cap%20006_zpsqqho1pc5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/muzzle%20cap%20006_zpsqqho1pc5.jpg.html)
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Fun day in the shop today fixing bows, starting bows and working on my flintlock.
I had some glue curing on another project so I inletted the sideplate on my flintlock.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/gills%20bow%20patch%20003_zps31j8dymn.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/gills%20bow%20patch%20003_zps31j8dymn.jpg.html)
Done and filed most of the way down to the wood. I leave the plate just a little proud so I can reduce it to the wood level when I do the final sanding of the stock.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/gills%20bow%20patch%20004_zpsn5kpcyec.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/gills%20bow%20patch%20004_zpsn5kpcyec.jpg.html)
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Touch hole liner time. This is one operation that always makes me nervous, no fixes for a goof-up here.
First I took the lock apart to have more room to measure the touch hole location.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20003_zpsbuknitqq.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20003_zpsbuknitqq.jpg.html)
Measure, measure and measure some more, the touch hole needs to be at what we call the sunset position in the pan.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20004_zpsd7xrmabi.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20004_zpsd7xrmabi.jpg.html)
Tap a pilot hole with a punch, you can move the punch mark around if it is off a little.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20006_zpsjn7tpleo.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20006_zpsjn7tpleo.jpg.html)
Pull the breech plug prior to drilling for the touch hole line
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20008_zps1zdumg5t.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20008_zps1zdumg5t.jpg.html)
I drill with a small bit first and follow up with the right sized tap bit for a 1/4-32 tap.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20009_zps3dhcsxeg.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20009_zps3dhcsxeg.jpg.html)
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Run a tap down the hole and slightly countersink the opening.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20010_zps1rtvgzii.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20010_zps1rtvgzii.jpg.html)
Screw the line in, in this case it protruded into the barrel too far so I pulled it out, cut a little off the end and reinstalled it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20013_zpsqwtedwww.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20013_zpsqwtedwww.jpg.html)
Cut off the flange;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20014_zpszkgdxgzm.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20014_zpszkgdxgzm.jpg.html)
File off the excess flush with the barrel;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20015_zps57acvbci.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20015_zps57acvbci.jpg.html)
Looking good;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20016_zpseg17uryr.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/touchhole%20liner%20016_zpseg17uryr.jpg.html)
Just a tiny bit off center but OK overall;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/wood%20shaping%20001_zpscwwlgxqx.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/wood%20shaping%20001_zpscwwlgxqx.jpg.html)
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Time to do some wood shaping, I will start by tapering the stock into the muzzle cap.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/wood%20shaping%20002_zps9xc5ihhx.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/wood%20shaping%20002_zps9xc5ihhx.jpg.html)
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Can you explain why there is an insert in the touch hole? I looks like you drilled a small hole, then drilled it out, plugged it and then drilled a small hole in the plug.
Oh, does the hole burn open in time and this makes it replaceable?
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I put in a stainless steel touchhole liner. It is coned on the inside with only a small hole to the outside, it has almost 1/4" hole at the inside of the barrel. This makes for fast ignition as the main charge is sitting just inside the small hole you see.
It is replaceable and can be removed with an easy out.
A straight drilled hole 1/16" hole was the traditional in original rifles. There is a tool available to cone a simple hole now but I prefer the liners I put in.
Here is a cutaway view of the liner;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/t_hole_zps4l4ehoes.gif) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/t_hole_zps4l4ehoes.gif.html)
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I've learned something today, thanks :D
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Some of the metal parts are wax cast steel with a rough surface and casting marks. First you file out the casting lines then remove your file marks with sandpaper, a long tedious process. I just finished polishing the trigger guard and have at least 4 hours in it. I polish to 220 grit paper for browning or greying.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/polishing%20metal%20001_zpsvzxnmudc.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/polishing%20metal%20001_zpsvzxnmudc.jpg.html)
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Getting ready to Brown the barrel for My Trade Gun - thanks again for this post Eric. Bob
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Time to shape the lock panel, the first step is to bring the extra wood down to the proper place on the lock which is at the edge of the bevel on the side.
I filed and sanded a lot of wood off;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20mortise%20shaping%20001%20-%20Copy_zpsvnjlzdqw.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20mortise%20shaping%20001%20-%20Copy_zpsvnjlzdqw.jpg.html)
Looking about right;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20mortise%20shaping%20003_zpsl1xi7ifn.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20mortise%20shaping%20003_zpsl1xi7ifn.jpg.html)
Rough draw in the lock panels, sometimes you see super wide lock panels on some guns, I think these wide ones are really unattractive so I make them thin.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20mortise%20shaping%20004_zpsiio9ftwq.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20mortise%20shaping%20004_zpsiio9ftwq.jpg.html)
You want about 1/8" of wood against your barrel in the lock area. I use a 1/8"drill bit as a pencil guide to establish this line.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20mortise%20shaping%20005_zpswrd4lobb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20mortise%20shaping%20005_zpswrd4lobb.jpg.html)
After lots of shaping and blending I am almost there on the back part of the panel. I did find my tang was too straight as I removed the wood to make a transition into my wrist. I have plenty of metal in the tang to round it off a little to get the right slope into my guns wrist.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20mortise%20shaping%20006_zpsb8ucjcjg.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/lock%20mortise%20shaping%20006_zpsb8ucjcjg.jpg.html)
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I have to confess; I went out to the shop to look at my rifle. I picked up one tool to do a little of this and that and the time got away from me. I did a bunch and never thought about my camera.
I used every tool in this pile repeatedly while shaping the sideplate panel and buttstock.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/buttstock%20shaping%20004_zps0oslouaq.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/buttstock%20shaping%20004_zps0oslouaq.jpg.html)
Sorta' after the fact on pictures, lots of filing, use of the contour gage to even things up side to side, chisels, scrapers and a ton of sandpaper.
The side plate panel shaped;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/buttstock%20shaping%20002_zps1ocmkali.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/buttstock%20shaping%20002_zps1ocmkali.jpg.html)
The wrist rounded and shaped even side to side;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/buttstock%20shaping%20003_zpsmjanqt6l.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/buttstock%20shaping%20003_zpsmjanqt6l.jpg.html)
Cutting the mouldings in the cheek piece with a knife edge file;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/buttstock%20shaping%20001_zpspvdwtlcg.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/buttstock%20shaping%20001_zpspvdwtlcg.jpg.html)
The forend shaping is next, I don't have much more to do on this rifle.
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I shaped the forend and decided to fill any inletting gaps while I was working the wood down. This one was had been filled but there was too much soot in the hole for the glue to hold the patch in. I cleaned up the hole and glued another piece in.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/forstock%20shaping%20001_zpskkdxe2m0.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/forstock%20shaping%20001_zpskkdxe2m0.jpg.html)
This one probably wasn't .010 wide but I filled it anyway.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/forstock%20shaping%20003_zpsrfkihvc2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/forstock%20shaping%20003_zpsrfkihvc2.jpg.html)
I took a lot of wood off the forestock, my precarve was fat on one side and too thin on the other so I had to match the fat side with the thin side, not much wood on the thin side to work with.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/forstock%20shaping%20002_zpsssd7afrj.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/forstock%20shaping%20002_zpsssd7afrj.jpg.html)
Here is the way it looks today. All I have to do is remove the excess wood from the rear ramrod pipe forward, install the patchbox, put the sights on, stain the wood and apply the finish, done.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/forstock%20shaping%20005_zpsbo2xxsmg.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/forstock%20shaping%20005_zpsbo2xxsmg.jpg.html)
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You made it upside down!!!
Looks beautiful. I want one.
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Any relieve or inlet carving?
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Getting close Eric. I guessing You'll Brown the barrel ? Bob
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JW, I am only going to add a buttstock moulding from the buttplate to the trigger plate and possibly one along the ramrod channel.Tn rifles seldom have any carving.
I am going to grey the metal instead of brown it.
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These squirrel rifle are very slender, I need to make the forestock along the barrel look like this cross section;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20thinning%20001_zpsh3eoekur.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20thinning%20001_zpsh3eoekur.jpg.html)
In this picture I have thinned one side and left one side fat;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20thinning%20002_zpsffceyagh.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20thinning%20002_zpsffceyagh.jpg.html)
No easy way to get things right, first you file, then you sand, all the while checking the profile. It is hard to match both sides perfectly.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20thinning%20003_zpstmpwbqbt.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20thinning%20003_zpstmpwbqbt.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20thinning%20004_zpsgat1bxoh.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20thinning%20004_zpsgat1bxoh.jpg.html)
I think I have it after lots of eyeballing from every direction and more scraping and sanding, not much wood left;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20thinning%20005_zpsm6oil9mf.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20thinning%20005_zpsm6oil9mf.jpg.html)
Slicked out and very thin;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20thinning%20006_zpsjzvk5k40.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20thinning%20006_zpsjzvk5k40.jpg.html)
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Looks great Eric.
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Patch box time;
The patch box I ordered is much too long so I made a paper pattern of it to adjust the size until I had a length that looked right on the rifle.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/Patchbox%20shaping%20001_zps2dmg6qav.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/Patchbox%20shaping%20001_zps2dmg6qav.jpg.html)
Marked to cut;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/Patchbox%20shaping%20002%201_zpsqnm4tbl3.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/Patchbox%20shaping%20002%201_zpsqnm4tbl3.jpg.html)
The size looks right now, I cut 1" off the screw side and 3/4" off the lid side.;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/Patchbox%20shaping%20003_zps8v6jxktv.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/Patchbox%20shaping%20003_zps8v6jxktv.jpg.html)
Checking the orientation on the butt stock prior to inletting;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/Patchbox%20shaping%20004_zpswmkhsmsv.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/Patchbox%20shaping%20004_zpswmkhsmsv.jpg.html)
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First step in inletting the patch box, outlining the box with an exacto knife;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/patchbox%20inletting%202%20001_zpslmerdvpw.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/patchbox%20inletting%202%20001_zpslmerdvpw.jpg.html)
Remove the wood inside the lines I just cut;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/patchbox%20inletting%202%20002_zpsjjnpax2v.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/patchbox%20inletting%202%20002_zpsjjnpax2v.jpg.html)
Making room for the lid spring so the box will sit level on the wood;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/patchbox%20inletting%202%20003_zpsybasafkv.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/patchbox%20inletting%202%20003_zpsybasafkv.jpg.html)
This inlet is very tedious, a couple hours and I am ready to knock off for the day, so far so good, a nice tight fit.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/patchbox%20inletting%202%20004_zpslys2qn9t.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/patchbox%20inletting%202%20004_zpslys2qn9t.jpg.html)
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... I picked up one tool to do a little of this and that and the time got away from me....
Yup, love it when that happens :)
Really enjoying this thread, thanks :)
Del
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Looking very good Eric. :)
Pappy
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Time to drill out the cavity in the patch box with a forstner bit, I went a little too large on the bit but everything came out OK.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patch%20box%20drilling%20001_zpsgyodgylk.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patch%20box%20drilling%20001_zpsgyodgylk.jpg.html)
By the time I got everything cleaned up there wasn't a very wide lip but I think it is sufficient.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patch%20box%20drilling%20002_zpsi4n9rjyv.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patch%20box%20drilling%20002_zpsi4n9rjyv.jpg.html)
Now it is the standard black and chisel until I get the box level with the wood.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patch%20box%20drilling%20003_zpsjzlhr7lf.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patch%20box%20drilling%20003_zpsjzlhr7lf.jpg.html)
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Looking nice, excited to see the final result!
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Loving this thread still, every time it says there's a new post I get excited to see what you're working on next. When it's done don't forget to give us a full draw pic, i.e. a pic of smoke flying out of the barrel, lol.
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I got the patch box in, then realized I had goofed up in several areas;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20goofups%20001_zpsyuxkxl3n.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20goofups%20001_zpsyuxkxl3n.jpg.html)
I realized that when I cut the patch box off to shorten it, I had cut the wrong end short. The lid end has a fixture to hold the lid spring which is now turned the wrong way so I had to improvise to make the lid spring work. I also decided to replace the initial screws that I had put in at a crooked angle and had to file down to mate them to the box lid, they ended up so flimsy after filing I was afraid they would twist off in the hole if I took them in and out much . You can see the plugged screw holes in this picture.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20goofups%20002_zpsrgefyr7u.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20goofups%20002_zpsrgefyr7u.jpg.html)
I chiseled out a mortise for the spring and shortened it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20goofups%20003_zpsfj6llm67.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20goofups%20003_zpsfj6llm67.jpg.html)
Just the right opening with my jury rigged spring;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20goofups%20004_zpskrgyjudu.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20goofups%20004_zpskrgyjudu.jpg.html)
I am going to replace the #6 hold down screws with some larger #8 screws, now for the big problem, finding slot head wood screws around town, Lowe's and Home Depot don't have them. I have the right size 1" long but they will come real close to coming out the other side of my stock so I don't want to use them. There is and old hardware store down the road them may have some 1/2" screws.
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The hardware store had all the screws I needed, I love these types of stores.
Sometimes it is best to put a flintlock project down for a day or two to regroup, the patch box was driving me crazy. If I lightly tapped on the box to get a soot transfer the thin metal of the box would deform. It was very hard to get into place.
I decided I needed to breathe some osage dust to clear my head. I have a bunch of mismatched osage billets, while I was getting over some surgery a while back I glued a bunch of these random billets together to make bow blanks.
I started a static recurve out of one of these bow blanks months ago but never got it tillered well enough to string it, today was the day. The strange thing about this bow is the limbs go every which way unstrung but straighten up perfectly strung. One limb is tough buttery osage, the other is dark chalky osage. One limb has a big wind shake in the fade, the other limb has drying checks about a foot long in the back, all superglued of course.
Strung without the handle shaped or tillering finished, I think the right (bottom) limb is 1 1/2" shorter than the left. The shadows make the tiller look off but the limbs are pretty closely matched.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/hodgepog%20bow%20001_zpswjss5osc.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/bow%20making/hodgepog%20bow%20001_zpswjss5osc.jpg.html)
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I redrilled my patch box holes using a gimlet to locate and keep the screw pilot holes centered and square. These are old fashion tools to drill holes and let you adjust the angle while you are making the pilot hole. Don't buy the cheap chinese gimlets off ebay, they don't work, I bought another set from Wade Garret, made in France, they work great.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/moulding%20002_zpsj0o35y5y.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/moulding%20002_zpsj0o35y5y.jpg.html)
On to the stock molding , first draw the line, no freehanding here.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/moulding%20003_zpswsgv1yxa.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/moulding%20003_zpswsgv1yxa.jpg.html)
Cut on the line with a vee gouge;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/moulding%20005_zpsuaetvmej.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/moulding%20005_zpsuaetvmej.jpg.html)
Follow the cut with a file, I use a knife edge file.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/moulding%20006_zpsb7lah32p.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/moulding%20006_zpsb7lah32p.jpg.html)
Finish up with various sanding methods to mute the line a little.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/moulding%20007_zpsmudo6s1g.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/moulding%20007_zpsmudo6s1g.jpg.html)
Now for the hard part, making the line on the other side match what I just cut. Maybe tomorrow, the patch box and moulding sapped my patience I think I will go out and weed eat.
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Yah, eatin' weed always mellows me out. In brownies is best ;D ;D
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Yah, eatin' weed always mellows me out. In brownies is best ;D ;D
:laugh:
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Adding a little bling to an otherwise plain gun with forestock moldings.
First draw where the moldings should be and see how it looks;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20moldings%20001_zpsw5rvsqzm.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20moldings%20001_zpsw5rvsqzm.jpg.html)
I made an adjustable beading tool that runs in the ramrod groove to scratch out a straight line down the forestock for my tools to follow;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20moldings%20002_zpssmgytzsg.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20moldings%20002_zpssmgytzsg.jpg.html)
I follow my line with a triangle riffler file to deepen the groove.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20moldings%20003_zpsu59nnbxb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20moldings%20003_zpsu59nnbxb.jpg.html)
One side done except for sanding;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20moldings%20004_zpsihpnunly.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20moldings%20004_zpsihpnunly.jpg.html)
Not a perfect match side to side but close enough;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20moldings%20005_zpsierxdkwd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20moldings%20005_zpsierxdkwd.jpg.html)
I only lack sights and a patch box lid catch to be finished. The sights come as pretty rough castings, I have cleaned up the one on the left and the right one still has the casting sprue.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20moldings%20006_zpsv2qckfqj.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/forestock%20moldings%20006_zpsv2qckfqj.jpg.html)
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Time to install the front sight;
First I measure the thickness of the base to see how deep to cut my dovetail;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/front%20sight%20001_zpswsdnledi.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/front%20sight%20001_zpswsdnledi.jpg.html)
I use the calipers to scribe this depth on the side of the barrel;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/front%20sight%20002_zpstm1si8h2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/front%20sight%20002_zpstm1si8h2.jpg.html)
I thought I would try a dovetail cutting guide I bought years ago to try to get a precise dovetail.It didn't work very well becaue it has to be shimmed to produced the right depth, I tried dimes , pennies and quarters for shims to see which one gave me the correct dovetail depth, dimes came out close to what I wanted.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/front%20sight%20003_zps4qmkkxum.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/front%20sight%20003_zps4qmkkxum.jpg.html)
In but I took an extra swipe with my three cornered file and the sight is a little loose in the dovetail.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/front%20sight%20004_zpslylk6hu2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/front%20sight%20004_zpslylk6hu2.jpg.html)
I removed the sight, turned it upside down in my vise and peened the base a little with a ball peen hammer to spread the metal out. I got a very tight fit after peening, the installation came out really good. I sanded the base and barrel together after I took this picture and everything blends just fine. I will cut the excess metal off the ends of the base after I sight the gun in.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/front%20sight%20005_zpsp3zwpcq7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/front%20sight%20005_zpsp3zwpcq7.jpg.html)
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I got a start on the rear sight, first , it is way too wide for a 13/16" barrel so I have to file it down, I am grinding and sawing off some of the base length as well.
First the length;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/front%20sight%20006_zps1kspynpa.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/front%20sight%20006_zps1kspynpa.jpg.html)
Next the width, a little difficult as one has to reshape each side of the sight with a file and keep the notch centered.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/front%20sight%20007_zps13mrx8vj.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/front%20sight%20007_zps13mrx8vj.jpg.html)
More later, I took Dad's day off from any shop work.
Just figured out I installed the rear sight and forgot my camera, anyway, it is in.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/rear%20sight%20001_zpsgusrsk0k.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/rear%20sight%20001_zpsgusrsk0k.jpg.html)
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I have to come up with a patch box latch spring, I have looked at lot of them and decided to try a piece of hacksaw blade for a latch.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20latch%20spring%20002_zps6nfsvgtl.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20latch%20spring%20002_zps6nfsvgtl.jpg.html)
When I bent the catch into the blade it there was no springiness in the thing, when I tried it thin it it broke.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20latch%20spring%20003_zpstvmp9rga.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20latch%20spring%20003_zpstvmp9rga.jpg.html)
Next I tried a concrete nail;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20latch%20spring%20004_zpsexnxziby.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20latch%20spring%20004_zpsexnxziby.jpg.html)
Almost finished, it is much thinner than what is shown in the picture;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20latch%20spring%20005_zps1ru9gagd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20latch%20spring%20005_zps1ru9gagd.jpg.html)
I heated the spring to red hot, quenched it in oil and am using the burning oil tempering method;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20latch%20spring%20006_zps8oxcrkv1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20latch%20spring%20006_zps8oxcrkv1.jpg.html)
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Very very nice! Keep up the good work!
I just want to see you put a finish on that wood and make it shine 😊
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I made a fixture to test my patchbox catch and release spring, it worked perfectly.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/spring%20test%20001_zpsxtngrgfb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/spring%20test%20001_zpsxtngrgfb.jpg.html)
When I tried to fit it to my patchbox i found I had made the first bend too short. I tried to rebend it but I never could get it just right, I started working on a new spring this afternoon.
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Guess I am going to my hand at building a handgun. My bow making buddy has been making flintlocks and I just mentioned I would like to try a handgun and he handed me an unfinished (never started) stock and a smooth bore 52 cal barrel. Now to decide flint lock or cap. Because I am flint knapper I may try to make the flint lock style.
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Guess I am going to my hand at building a handgun. My bow making buddy has been making flintlocks and I just mentioned I would like to try a handgun and he handed me an unfinished (never started) stock and a smooth bore 52 cal barrel. Now to decide flint lock or cap. Because I am flint knapper I may try to make the flint lock style.
*in my best cartoon villain voice:* Excelllleeeennnnntt!
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Wow! Wish I had a friend that would hand me one. :)
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After making spring # 5, I GOT IT, lots of good pictures to follow. I am putting all the patch parts together for a test run, I know it will work, it did in a dry run without all the screws in place.
Don't you just hate it when someone keeps you hanging........
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I will start with the patch box spring wall of shame, there was at least 3 more failures not in the picture.The one that is intact actually worked.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20complete%20001_zpsvwpe2opo.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20complete%20001_zpsvwpe2opo.jpg.html)
A test fit showed it to be a little tall so I will have to inlet a deeper spot for it in the box.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20complete%20002_zpshrwgyvyl.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20complete%20002_zpshrwgyvyl.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20complete%20003_zpsofzq6aer.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20complete%20003_zpsofzq6aer.jpg.html)
First test run, putting everything together.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20complete%20004_zpsjnkpc9uj.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20complete%20004_zpsjnkpc9uj.jpg.html)
It works!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20complete%20005_zpsgikelk9x.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20complete%20005_zpsgikelk9x.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20complete%20006_zpscmmrjpkk.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/patchbox%20complete%20006_zpscmmrjpkk.jpg.html)
Just a little more adjustment to get the box lid down tight and WE ARE DONE!
Next, sanding staining and finishing the wood, and greying the barrel and metal parts.
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Eric, will you remove all of the metal parts to gray them?
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I will for the most part, I think I will leave the muzzle cap in place. It is a long process sanding out all the file and casting marks on the metal, the butt plate is particularly rough and will take at least a day to smooth out. I still have to sand all the external lock parts to get rid of the factory orange peel surface.
I will sand everything down to 220 and stop there.
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Polishing out the factory casting marks is a pain. Below you can see a lock plate I have polished and a cock that I am just starting on that still has the rough factory grey finish. There is no good way to hold things while you work on them, some fit in a vise, some don't.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/polishing%20metal%20001_zpsqy9flm0p.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/polishing%20metal%20001_zpsqy9flm0p.jpg.html)
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You have inspired me to replace the double set trigger in my .36 flinter with a single trigger. Now I gotta find something roughly the right size to modify to fit!
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Make a trigger, super easy to cold forge one.
Start;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/homemadebecktriggers.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/homemadebecktriggers.jpg.html)
Finish;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/English%20Fowler/Triggerplateinfinished_zps1519ce78.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/English%20Fowler/Triggerplateinfinished_zps1519ce78.jpg.html)
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As I started sanding I noticed a discrepancy in my side to side stock shaping and had to make some corrections to even things out, this required some inletting and metal thinning to make things fit again.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/pins%20002_zps71byiao7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/pins%20002_zps71byiao7.jpg.html)
I cut and fit all my pins today;
First measure how long the pin should be;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/pins%20003_zpsswfwg4s5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/pins%20003_zpsswfwg4s5.jpg.html)
Mark the length to cut;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/pins%20004_zpsltizjlgt.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/pins%20004_zpsltizjlgt.jpg.html)
Test fit, just right;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/pins%20005_zps5xawelvs.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/pins%20005_zps5xawelvs.jpg.html)
I put three pins in the barrel lugs, three in the ramrod pipes and two in the trigger guard. I like to keep them straight after I remove them from the stock.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/aq%20001_zps7oxcrwfk.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/aq%20001_zps7oxcrwfk.jpg.html)
Tomorrow it is whisker the stock, stain and apply the first coat of finish.
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Getting close Erik - can't wait to see the final product ! Bob
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As a side note, my dremel gave up the ghost on me, it was only a couple years old. I called the company and they said the max charge for a repair was $59 and could be nothing if it was a factory defect and anything in between if it wasn't a serious problem.
I took a 20% off coupon to Harbor Freight and bought a similar tool for $21 out the door, the dang thing work really well.
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The first step in stock finishing is whiskering the stock. This amounts to wetting the stock and drying it with a heat gun to raise the grain.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/whiskering%20001_zpsjmyw2pnd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/whiskering%20001_zpsjmyw2pnd.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/whiskering%20002_zpstwcyy7ne.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/whiskering%20002_zpstwcyy7ne.jpg.html)
I whiskered twice with 220, once with 400 and followed up with a 000 scotch bright pad.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/whiskering%20004_zpsyxx4nyfb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/whiskering%20004_zpsyxx4nyfb.jpg.html)
Ready for the stain.
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Now for the magic!
I am using an iron nitrate stain that will make the grain POP!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/aq%20002_zpsnwzlwmbe.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/aq%20002_zpsnwzlwmbe.jpg.html)
I saturate the stock with the stain, it immediately turns a puky green color. Check out that grain, unfortunately the curl in mostly in the buttstock and gets sparse in the wood forward of the lock panels.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/aq%20003_zps3zhwmqjt.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/aq%20003_zps3zhwmqjt.jpg.html)
I will let the stain dry for a while, then comes the good part, the magic.
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I rather like the green wood stage, even if it is rarely left at that point.
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Next I go over the stock with a heat gun which turns the green to a muddy brown.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/finish%20004_zpsbmvhqzbi.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/finish%20004_zpsbmvhqzbi.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/finish%20002%20-%20Copy_zpsthtk12c7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/finish%20002%20-%20Copy_zpsthtk12c7.jpg.html)
I neutralize the aquafortis with ammonia and wash the ammonia off with a water hose. I dried the stock with towels, my heat gun and a couple hours of time.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/finish%20006_zpsvxk18vc5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/finish%20006_zpsvxk18vc5.jpg.html)
The first coat of finish brings out the curl again, the picture is out of focus. I will add 3 or 4 more coats before I am done.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/finish%20007_zpshmedag5l.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/finish%20007_zpshmedag5l.jpg.html)
This picture shows the color more truly. I have the stock hanging up to dry until tomorrow.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/finish%20008_zpsbqnbbg80.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/finish%20008_zpsbqnbbg80.jpg.html)
My stock color in the sun;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/browning%20two%20002_zpsavlfw4g7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/browning%20two%20002_zpsavlfw4g7.jpg.html)
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I decided to brown my parts instead of greying them, with the stock color grey would look odd.
Prep is sanding everything with 220 grit paper and wiping down with laquer thinner to degrease.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/browning%20002_zpsz2mmu9sr.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/browning%20002_zpsz2mmu9sr.jpg.html)
Browning with LMF browning solution is pretty easy but you have to remember, one pass with your rag, if you miss a spot get it on the next go round. If you go back and rub on more over what you have already done you will get a copper color and the area won't brown. The first few coats always look awful but everything evens out with more coats.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/browning%20001_zpszisutcry.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/browning%20001_zpszisutcry.jpg.html)
Everything coated and placed outside in the humidity, in the woods behind my covered archery target. It is very humid here having rained almost every day. By tomorrow morning everything will be a bit rusty and ready for a second coat of LMF.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/browning%20003_zpscgvokncj.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/browning%20003_zpscgvokncj.jpg.html)
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After a night in the damp outside, rusty but uneven and a few missed spots. If I can't even things out I will sand the parts that aren't well done and start over.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/browning%20two%20001_zpsjxqt5ajr.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/browning%20two%20001_zpsjxqt5ajr.jpg.html)
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yep the more times you do it the better the brown looks............
Dbar
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About three coats of LMF adn a couple of overnight sessions and we have some RUST.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/carding%20001_zpshlbad12w.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/carding%20001_zpshlbad12w.jpg.html)
Carding the scale off is necessary, I use a piece of denim and an old scotch bright pad with a lot of elbow grease to rub the rust scale off. Here is a before and after carding example;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/carding%20002_zpsqzzqxeyf.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/carding%20002_zpsqzzqxeyf.jpg.html)
After carding I neutralize the LMF acid with ammonia, then thoroughly wash the parts to get rid of the ammonia.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/carding%20003_zpsrfs3vckh.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/carding%20003_zpsrfs3vckh.jpg.html)
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That stock is looking real handsome...
Del
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The next step it to heat all the metal parts up and wipe them with motor oil while hot, the oil bonds with the browned surface and gives it a "finished" appearance. I have all the parts except the trigger guard (blotchy finish) ready to be oiled. The parts are supposed to have the oil on them for 24 hrs.
Tomorrow I should be able to assemble everything and be done. I fear some of my inlets soaked up moisture during the staining and neutralizing process and expanded the wood, they may not fit without a little inlet sanding and fitting.
I found out too late that the stain I used wasn't acid and didn't need to be neutralized.
I seem to have forgotten about a ramrod. I have an extra brass tipped one already finished that I can use until I get a proper steel tipped one made.
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I had to back up and re-brown several components. The bow of the trigger guard looked blotchy, I tried to add more coats of LMF but it only got worse, I sanded it to bare metal this morning and rebrowned it.
I had the nose cap looking great, I heated it to apply a coat of oil, got it too hot, when I wiped oil on it, it turned as black as night. I sanded it off as well and started over.
Todays assembly will only be a few pieces put back in the stock. I have to have the nose cap installed to install the barrel.
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Assembly, sort of, nothing fits back in the stock, just a little finish slopped in my tight inlets has stopped everything I have tried to install. Still trying to brown the trigger guard and nose cap, the process ishn't going to plan.
I started putting the lock together and found out the top jaw screw has a lopsided head that binds with the back of the cock and won't let me tighten the flint jaws. I have to decide whether to send it back to Chambers or fix it myself.
Anyway I got this far plus the ramrod pipes in today.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/assembly%201%20002_zps8kn2gipe.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/assembly%201%20002_zps8kn2gipe.jpg.html)
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Looks good Eric..........
DBar
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This thread has really tempted me and I'll bet I haven't shot a gun for 40 years. Maybe if I get tired of making bows ;) ;)
Reason for edit, I had to capitalise an "I", detail you know :D :D :D :D
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This thread has really tempted me and I'll bet I haven't shot a gun for 40 years. Maybe if i get tired of making bows ;) ;)
Seeing your attention to detail, DC, that would be a fine rifle!
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This thread has really tempted me and I'll bet I haven't shot a gun for 40 years. Maybe if I get tired of making bows ;) ;)
Seeing your attention to detail, DC, that would be a fine rifle!
Another capital "I" :D :D :D
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This thread has really tempted me and I'll bet I haven't shot a gun for 40 years. Maybe if I get tired of making bows ;) ;)
Seeing your attention to detail, DC, that would be a fine rifle!
Another capital "I" :D :D :D
Seriously, you owe yourself one really decent flintlock rifle. This goes for everyone reading along this thread religiously!!!
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That is coming along very nice Eric. :)
Pappy
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My latest hair pulling session! I started putting everything together and the barrel wouldn't go in, somehow the tang got bent ,I don't remember dropping the barrel on the tang end but it had a pronounced hump where the tang bolt goes through. Out with the rubber mallet and the pounding began. At first I went too far, then too little and finally got it to where the tang would fit in the mortise. It appeared to have a little sideways bend but so my perfect wood to metal fit isn't perfect anymore.
I got the barrel in and started assembling the lock, I decided to file off the fat side of the top flint jaw screw so it wouldn't bind, next I found the top jaw was not cut properly and would bind as well, a file took care of this problem. I put the guts of the lock together and the hammer wouldn't go down on the tumbler all the way. I took it back off and could see a burr in the square hole that fits over the end of the tumbler. Out with the needle files, file and check, file and check for about 1/2 hr and the fit is better but still not right. I have to take the lock back apart and and file some more, I can see where the hammer is binding on one side of the tumbler shaft.
Tomorrow I am going to disassemble the gun correct every little glitch I found on assembly.
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I went out to the shop to wrap things up on my flintlock and found RUST, lots of it on all my parts.
The last barrel I browned stopped rusting the minute I neutralized the browning solution, not so with my current build. I stripped everything down, scrubbed all the parts with simple green cleaner then soaked in ammonia again, dried and oiled.
After a little research I found that after rusting was common and would generally stop in a few days. I elected to slow the process down with more ammonia.
I am going to leave everything apart for a few days to make sure the rusting has stopped.
I might need to borrow a little hair from someone, I have pulled all of mine out over this project.
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Getting the rusting to stop on the barrel has been a problem. I have neutralized the browning solution 3 times which has stopped the rusting on the other metal parts but not the barrel.
I have a really deep color on my mountings, no rust now.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/browned%20001_zpsdtcrzkbz.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/browned%20001_zpsdtcrzkbz.jpg.html)
The barrel is still rusting;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/browned%20002_zpsbzkjutlb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/browned%20002_zpsbzkjutlb.jpg.html)
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The saga continues; Today, rain, more rust, even on things that had stopped rusting.
Today's procedure; A through washing with straight dawn detergent, rinse with very hot water, a scrubbing with baking soda paste slurry, hot water rinse, dry with a torch and Rig gun grease applied in copious amounts while the barrel was still very hot.
I was going to flood the barrel with WD40 but it wasn't on my lubricant shelf. I then remembered I had knocked the can off my work bench some time ago, broken the nozzle off and rendered it unusable.
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Eric, WD40 is a great grease cutter. It might affect the end results. Might do a test with it first.
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Last post!!!!!!!!!
I finally tapped out and quit. The rust had become very slight so I rubbed everything down one more time, put a coat of Renaissance wax on everything and did my final assembly.
The project came out pretty good if you don't look too close.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/squirrel%20rifle%20done%20009_zps1la8put5.jpg)[/URL
[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/squirrel%20rifle%20done%20005_zpsikw4iomh.jpg.html](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/squirrel%20rifle%20done%20005_zpsikw4iomh.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/squirrel%20rifle%20done%20009_zps1la8put5.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrel%20rifle/squirrel%20rifle%20done%20008_zpsxfxyafal.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrel%20rifle/squirrel%20rifle%20done%20008_zpsxfxyafal.jpg.html)
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It's beautiful! Thanks for doing this Eric. You may have a follower.
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Somebody is bound to ask, so I will simply get this out of the way: How many hours do you estimate?
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Looks pretty damn amazing from here man! Good Job! Now we need a "full draw" pic of it being fired...
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I would guess 125 hours give or take 25 or so, I didn't keep track.
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Looks pretty damn amazing from here man! Good Job! Now we need a "full draw" pic of it being fired...
Speaking of which. Is there some kind of testing procedure you have to go though, like put the gun in a vice, tie a string on the trigger, hide behind the barn and pull. I saw a "How It's Made" about where a custom gun maker had to send the guns out to a testing agency where they tested it with a double load.
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Nope, Green Mountain barrels are made of much tougher steel than the other barrel makers, I breeched it properly so there is no reason to proof it.
If I was going to proof the barrel I would have done it before I put the barrel in the stock.
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I like everything about it, Eric. Thanks for posting this. Kinda hate to see it come to an end.
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Came out very nice. Really enjoyed this post Eric - thanks for sharing ! Any new projects looming in the future ? Bob
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I am going back to making bows for a long while, this project took the wind out of my sails with so many things going wrong.
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It looks great Eric. You did a fine job and I can't wait to hear how it shoots.
BTW, is that a Rich Pierce flint I see in the lock?
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Nope, Green Mountain barrels are made of much tougher steel than the other barrel makers, I breeched it properly so there is no reason to proof it.
If I was going to proof the barrel I would have done it before I put the barrel in the stock.
After all, why spend the hours building everything up when you have no clue if it is a barrel or a bomb? All the major barrel makers these days are good at what they do.
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Nope, Green Mountain barrels are made of much tougher steel than the other barrel makers, I breeched it properly so there is no reason to proof it.
If I was going to proof the barrel I would have done it before I put the barrel in the stock.
After all, why spend the hours building everything up when you have no clue if it is a barrel or a bomb? All the major barrel makers these days are good at what they do.
Yea, JW, some fine barrels out there. The Archery Club I shoot at is called Long Hammock, Guess what business is on the property? :)
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Nope, Green Mountain barrels are made of much tougher steel than the other barrel makers, I breeched it properly so there is no reason to proof it.
If I was going to proof the barrel I would have done it before I put the barrel in the stock.
After all, why spend the hours building everything up when you have no clue if it is a barrel or a bomb? All the major barrel makers these days are good at what they do.
Yea, JW, some fine barrels out there. The Archery Club I shoot at is called Long Hammock, Guess what business is on the property? :)
Yup!
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Yep, A Rich Pierce flint, the best sparkers I have ever put in a gun. It is a shame he no longer makes them, I have 5 or 6 left, they last hundreds of shots.
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Have you fired it yet???
David
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Nope, truth is I grew to hate this rifle while I was building it because so many things went wrong, I put it up for a "cooling off" period. I got it out of the gun safe yesterday to look it over and take it to show to my friends. I am starting to like it, a little.
It has rained every day here for a week or so, rain then the sun comes out and it is steamy hot, not good flintlock shooting weather.
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Well, if you can't find room in your heart for it, I'm sure there's plenty of volunteers to take it off your hands! This has been a really really cool post to follow Eric, thanks for taking us along for the ride.
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Well, if you can't find room in your heart for it, I'm sure there's plenty of volunteers to take it off your hands! This has been a really really cool post to follow Eric, thanks for taking us along for the ride.
+1, and I'll be glad to say I would be proud to take that rifle off your hands if it will help ease your heart.
Patrick
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That turned out beautiful Eric. Thanks for sharing the build along with us. :)
Pappy
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Ready to go bang!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/shooting%20the%2040%20001_zpsx3cwxd2k.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/shooting%20the%2040%20001_zpsx3cwxd2k.jpg.html)
Taking a few shot at 28 yards;
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/shooting%20the%2040%20002_zpsb8qoa0us.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/shooting%20the%2040%20002_zpsb8qoa0us.jpg.html)
After a little sight adjustment, 2 holes touching at 28 yards, squirrels beware!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/Squirrle%20rifle/shooting%20the%2040%20003_zps7clwbb90.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/Squirrle%20rifle/shooting%20the%2040%20003_zps7clwbb90.jpg.html)
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Sweet Eric............................. "thumbs up"
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Aww, man, that is sweet.
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Eric - fine looking rifle, kudos to your determination, skill and patience. The proof is in the pudding, excellent architecture and accurate to boot.
Your thread is probably the best build along for a muzzleloading rifle I have ever read.
Thanks very much for letting us come along on your journey.
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Awesome!!! thanks for taking the time to share!
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It's a looker and a shooter Eric.
Couldn't go no better... :)
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That sure turned out sweet Eric! And it shoots good to!
Patrick