Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: E. Jensen on January 08, 2016, 08:11:40 pm
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Both of these are down to the outside ring. Took it to the cambium/phloem layer then scraped that off. So none of the first ring taken off. Question is, would any of you go down deeper, or roll with it? The first is elm, the second is hickory.
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I would probably leave the elm as is, the first ring of the hickory looks a little pithy, I would go down at least another one. The third is nice and wide if you don't mind working that far.
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I can't even see the first rings on the hickory they are so small. I know hickory is tough though so idk
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The hickory looks to me like the chain might have dulled on the saw, cut 1/2" to 1 " off the end to determine if that top ring is punky. If it is take down 1 more and should be good to go. Never worked with elm but it looks good to go.
Dan
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Was cut with a hand saw this morning. Looks like I'm taking it down some
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Was the hickory a standing, live, healthy tree?
The outer ring or two does look punky on the left side of the picture, but maybe it just looks like that because of how it was sawed or due to tear out when it fell, etc. I'd cut 1/2" off the end with a smooth cutting miter saw or something to get a better look at it.
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I have no clue it was sent by someone else. I'd guess cut living, as it was sopping wet when I got it. There are about 5-10 rings on the end for the width of one of those fatties nearer the pith. I want to be lazy and just call it good. But I know taking all those thin rings will yield a stronger, denser bow.
I got excited because I rummaged through my closet and found about 4-5 staves that I either didn't want to tackle before or didn't feel I had the skill before and wanted to crush them all but I should be patient and do it right. Still haven't decided about the elm.
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If like to have a two tone colored stick (sap + heartwood) go further!
otherwise I'm convinced the first ring works.
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I'm so back on forth now, because yes I love two tone!!! Are there different properties between elm heat and sap that I should consider?
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When they used to make handles out of hickory, the sap wood was preferred. Hickory is very strong in tension. If that stick has no punk in the outside, there is no reason to go work the back. It is much harder to chase a hickory ring than with Osage or locust, or even ash.
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Well I committed to bringing them both down. Wasn't too bad. Elm had a lot of pin knots and flatter crown so took a while
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Take off your ring hats and put on your bow twist hats. No point in a new thread for a quick question on the same bow. Twist in the limb on the last 6-8inches or so. What would you guys do. Try and take out, or put a side nock on it? Or a little of both.
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Personally I would take the twist out, I never leave it if I don't have to. Hickory and Elm both work well with heat, so pretty easy to straighten up.
Pappy
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Square end and yank with a wrench and then heat?
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You can do it tat way, I always use a form and shims so to over correct as some will come back. :)
Pappy