Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: make-n-break on March 06, 2016, 09:09:51 pm
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Well. It lives at 45@28"... It's currently 66" ttt with temp knocks tied on. I exercised it 200 times at final tiller just to make sure it didn't pop. It took 1" set on bottom limb and 1-3/8 on top, but the top limb started with about 1/4 inch of deflex. All of the sisal is temporary.
I need to get the weight up. 45 is too light for me. I would like at least 50 but no more than 55 for longevity of my ghetto splice. What do you guys recommend...
-Pike one inch off each end making it 64"?
-a thorough heat treating?
The handle looks ugly as sin with those dowels haha!! Went with 3/16 lam over that mess of a butt splice as a couple fellas recommended. Thankful for all your wisdom and thankful it's alive so far.
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Your tiller looks great. Before I shortened it any at all, I would heat treat. That should get you five pounds. Based on the pic, it looks like your ntn is about 64" or 65". If your draw is 28", I would leave the length alone. Just my 2¢.
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Yep good advice.You could easily pick up 6 to 8 pounds from a heat treatment and a little reflex.Do it evenly on both limbs though.Don't want to change that good tiller.Congrats.
I always got more faith in sinew myself for wrapping.
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Looks to me that tiller is pretty darn good but I don't think there any inches left for the draw length. In other words, it is maxed out. Shortening the bow will not help.
Start another bow.
Jawge
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I love the band you have achieved with this bow! I'm very glad your cover-up lam worked out well.
Do you have a good reflex caul? If not, they are pretty easy to build. I think you could Steam (...careful not to steam the handle) or just use a heat gun to put this bow into a bit of reflex, (...maybe an inch and a half or two) and then heat treat the SNOT out of the belly. The limbs are hickory, so I'd seal them up right after heat treatment while still hot and then leave it on the caul for extra time to cool down completely. That should get you the extra pounds you need.
Don't worry about the looks of the handle. You can cover the whole thing with a nice leather grip if you like and it'll disappear completely. :)
OneBow
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Unbelievable MNB. Absolutely a lesson in woodworking. Thanks for taking us along.
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Nice looking bend :)
Del
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sweet... hell.. you say the handle is ugly... i'd shoot it and be proud of it...
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In order to gain draw weight by piking you'd need to shorten 2" at each end to get to 55#, just a tad over 1" to get to 50". Heat seems best to me too. And I actually like that handle, with the pegs and all.
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I really like the handle too I think the end grain on the dowels against the long grain on the handle if oiled or stained will really pop off glad to see it survive & thrive !
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Thanks everyone. I don't have a reflex form OneBow. I took the advice and gave it a good deep heat treating but kept the straight profile. No piking. I'll touch up the tiller in the next couple days, finish it out and hopefully get some completion pics up this weekend. I'm really hoping everything holds with the new weight gain! I'd love to take a turkey with this one in a couple weeks. I modified my tillering tree with an extra long rope when this project started lol.
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Gluing that piece on the back is certainly what saved it. That looks nice especially with the handle wrap.
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Thanks sleek. I'll get a proper one on there while finishing. That one was just a temp to see what it looked like and lessen the shrapnel during an explosion.
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I doubt it will explode. If it fails it will begin to pull apart and you will notice that, if it happens. I think the odds are good for you though. I would soak the handle wrap in glue when you re do it.
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Heat treat it back to straight if you can, and flip the tips just an inch or so about 5" or 6 " from the end. In my experience, if you don't go overboard, this will give you the draw weight you need with almost no need to retiller anything.
Putting a full length reflex in is great, too.