Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Stick Bender on March 10, 2016, 05:26:03 am
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I am laying out my first osage stave , I'm a little confused on doing it I have read Torges book as well as TBB & build alongs here ,I understand about centering down the crown & following the grain there,but my confusion is in the front view sides layout & grain violations there , I know Torges speaks to just taking the limb width layout off the center line with no mention of grain in that area , so I figured I would throw it out here for help ,I could probably PM members & find out but figured there might be others with similar questions that could help ? So could you guys please explain how it's done ?
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If ypour centerline is on top dead center and follows the grain perfectly, then yes, you will have "violations" as you width taper, its impossible not to. Those same width tapers become a problem only when your centerline isn't right. That's where unexpected twisting at first brace comes from, or broken bows due to splinters.
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Thanks Pearl I understand about the lmb taper violations I guess my question is for exsample if I follow the center grain line above the crown & measure 3/4 in each side of it to get 1 1/2 limbs & the outer limb line splits a grain line with out running off is that ok or do I need to stay out side the grain line ? Hope that made sense ?
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Ahhhh, your splitting hairs. Don't worry about that. Just do what you said. Find the centerline and go 3/4" off each side for your width.
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Pearl is right, don't worry much there.
One of the reasons you lay the centerline out along the crown and following the grain, is that this puts the highest part of the crown down the middle of the bow, regardless of wiggles. So, the bow will be thickest right along that centerline. So, that area will experience the most tension strain on the back. So, the edges (which are thinner) will experience much less. So, unless MAJORLY WEIRDLY violated, you won't have any issues.
Now, if it takes an obviously wild curve in the grain, as around a knot, say, you might have to do something about that. 98% of the time, it's a non-issue.
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Does the crown always follow the grain?
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No, especially on smaller diameter trees. And, if you want to force it to, on the caul, you probably could most of the time. But, it won't be off by much, and little tweaks will get a good match-up, even if you have to split the difference. What you don't want is a limb that is much fatter on one side than the other, or the tips will twist or lean sideways as you draw.
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I have a little tool got the idea from patb finds the middle of the stave and i just measure off that line to get layout, works on a split stave
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Yes, and by following the crown you are following the lateral grain which runs tip to tip.
Check this.
http://traditionalarchery101.com/layout.html
Jawge
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Thanks George some how missed that one ,that pretty well exsplains it.
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Bubby, I'm pretty sure I know what tool you are referring to, but would you mind posting a picture if you have one?
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Bubby, I'm pretty sure I know what tool you are referring to, but would you mind posting a picture if you have one?
+1
I have my own ways of doing this, but I like to see and try everything that might help.
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I'll post a pick when i get home guys
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Here ya go (http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/Mobile%20Uploads/20160310_141943_HDR_zpslcw5ar2o.jpg) (http://s623.photobucket.com/user/bubncheryl/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160310_141943_HDR_zpslcw5ar2o.jpg.html)
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One side for wide staves the othe for narrower ones
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after you have chased a ring on osage, if you take it into direct sunlight, you will see lines running up and down the length of the back of the bow. find one of these in the middle of your fade, and then draw a pencil line down it to the tip. With the right light, it is very easy to see the grain on osage. With it, I don't worry about the crown.
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Only one snag, bub. If a stave doesn't split right on the nut from side to side, that tool will lead you astray.
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That is true
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So far, I've ruined all but 1 Osage stave I've touch because I haven't been laying them out correctly. I need to read more vs trying to learn by making mistakes on these staves!
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Here is something to try, mulberry. Once you get a good back cleaned up, burnish it good with 0000 steel wool. It makes the grain fire up and that makes it much easier to see and follow.
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Thanks bubby, that's the one I thought you were taking about
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Nice tip Pearl! Im getting very frustrated with staves!!!
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I'm by far no expert...but lately I've been laying all my bows out from the belly side. I usually leave the bow a little wider and then further tweak my layout once I clean the belly up. It makes it much easier to follow the grain.
Somebody chime in if this isn't a good practice please.
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Here is the one I made. It started out as a tillering gizmo, and still is but I added the dowels to the other side to use it for a centering tool.
I start with it this way and go down the complete stave...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/gizmomulti-use2.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/PatBNC/media/gizmomulti-use2.jpg.html)
...then cant it the other way...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/gizmomulti-use5.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/PatBNC/media/gizmomulti-use5.jpg.html)
and go down the complete stave. As the stave widens and narrows the line will come off center so by going back the other way you get 2 lines in some places. I just split the difference there.
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Ajooter thats a great idea , the grain is clear as a bell from the bottom especialy on flatter staves.