Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: SLIMBOB on June 23, 2016, 09:32:22 am
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OK..first ring I've chased on Osage in more than a year. Like riding a bike, but I'm having trouble riding a wheelie. :) This is a stave I have had drying for 3 years or so. Very thin rings from the sap wood till you get about half way down. I tried chasing one of the thinner rings up top. Lost my way at about 2/3 of the length and moved to the other end and started from there planning on connecting the 2. Almost done and a grub hole appeared out of nowhere. Dang-it! Too deep to sand out, so I went down to the bottom of the grub hole and worked my way out. Nearly finished and I get a tear out behind a pin knot. Dang-it! The ring was just so thin that there was no use fretting over it. Clean thru the ring. So I finally went down to the first thicker ring and started over. Darkness last night prevented me from finishing it but I'm close. Pretty red streaks and blotches on this one. 58 inches long. Think I'm going to try a static recurve with it. I spent a little time last night looking thru some of PEARL DRUMS statics for inspiration. The knots concern me a bit, with the shorter length, but I am going to keep the recurves on the shorter side, maybe 3-3 1/2 inches or so and see what develops. I want a shorter little bow to hunt with this year. Any thoughts or advice is welcome and appreciated.
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That's one nice looking snakey stave!
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For a static I'd select a cleaner stave.
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For me, its more about straight and flat than clean. In osage anyway. Alignment is the almighty killer of statics. That being said? I prefer clean and straight for everything I do anymore, suppose my wrestling days are past me :)
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Looks like you are off to a good start Slimbob
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The big question for me is the knots for sure. I know from past history that PatM looks for clean and knot free as a rule and I believe that is good advice on this one. I believe the alignment will be good Chris. My working plan is to get it down to floor tiller and see what I have. If needed I can flip the tips instead of full on statics and I know (make that feel) I can get away with that on this one. I really want statics if I think it will work when I get there. I appreciate the thoughts and will see where this goes from here.
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Can't wait to see the finished product SLIMBOB!
Cheers
Thunder
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If those knots are okay for a flat bow then they are okay for a static flat bow, those are my feelings. I don't see any knots in the portion getting steam bent.
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All of them are near midlimb. If it works I think it will be pretty cool looking. IF! I have an excellent couple of Mulberry pieces and I just cant get fired up on those boring straight things. They are both much better candidates for a static, my craziness not withstanding. Flat bow, no problem, so if you think that will translate, I'm off to the races.
Hey Thunder. Glad you checked in.
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I don't see a problem with those knots. If it will ben without statics it will bend with them. What draw length are you wanting you can always deflex it some
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Hey bubby. 27 inch draw length. I have considered deflexing it some. I love R/D bows but I have never built one. I think it will make what I am after but the knots are a concern. I gotta say I am just glad to have a draw knife back in my hands no matter which way this goes. Thanks for checking in!
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Hey let us know how it goes, would really love to see the final result!
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It comes down to whether you believe a static bends the working limb farther than a straight bow.
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At 27" with a 58" stave i would deflex it some or make it a bendy, or both
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It comes down to whether you believe a static bends the working limb farther than a straight bow.
I believe it works just a bit more limb. I don't think that another, say 3/4-1", per limb would make or break the knots he is talking about. Osage knots just don't seem to care about much, at least that what I have found.
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PatM. Not sure they bend farther, but I do believe they are more stressed, especially mid limb where these knots are. How far forward the tips are would in my opinion be the biggest determining factor in just how stressed. Edify me if I am wrong. :) I can't yet tell about the integrity if these knots but I will know more soon. I'm with PD in that I won't let knots in Osage keep me from going a bit aggressive, but they are a factor that has to be taken in.
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ok I don't think you said what weight you were going for,, you could drop down a bit,, and that would reduce some strain on the limbs,, give you a more mass to draw weight ratio,, :)
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Hunting weight bow around 50lb at 27. I want to keep it close to that and no liter.
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i have a short hunting bow that is 56" and about 50# at 27,, but it is straight limb and bends a little into the handle and has wide limbs,, so it is holding the long draw,,
Badger said something the other day that really stuck with me,, the bow will only give you what it has,, when it starts to take set ,,stop,, whatever the draw is at that point,, I think that simple statement is profound,, and may apply to your bow design at hand,, :)
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Well....got it peeled like an onion. Strangest Bodark I have ever, EVER, chased a ring on! I mentioned that I lost my ring last night and went to the other end and started from there to end up in the middle. When I got to where the two should meet I was 2 maybe 3 rings off ??? Dang-it! I spent the last 3 hours trying to figure out where I was on the thing. The problem was that every time I got near that reddish blotch of wood, the early wood all but disappeared. No matter what I did I couldn't find the ring I was on. So I would count the rings, go to the other end and and try and join them up. Off every time! I almost gave it up as a lost cause at one point, but thru shear luck only, on my last attempt, which I had no confidence in anything changing, I hooked the two up! Shear luck as I had no clue where I was. I have never seen that before. Really strange. Any how, the first knot is at 10 inches from the tip and the other is 16 inches. The wood seems sound as a dollar so I am continuing on. I'm gonna draw it out and shoot for a 58 inch character static recurve. I may find out there is no such thing. I want to keep the weight up around 50 at 27 inches. The stave is 2 inches wide so I have some wiggle room on width, but I am thinking I may need most of that. Bubby suggested deflexing the handle and I may do that. Pretty piece of Sage for sure. Any thoughts or ideas are welcomed.
Brad...I'm not so much concerned with set as I am one of those knots letting go. I will monitor the set as I go, so good advice.
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That's looking pretty sweet! Gotta love the workmates eh!
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Glad you are back at it, that is a pretty piece of wood, not sure it will do what you want but sounds like you are going to find out. ;) :) I think that short with that much draw deflexing the handle would be a good idea but hay that's just me, as most know I like safer and overbuilt for the most part. :) Keep us updated.
Pappy
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Bob,
if it's me - I wouldn't hesitate to make a static out of that stick!
Chasing a ring:
I know what you are talking about, really! It helps most to have the right light. I like to work on such things in the night with a good desk light which is positionable. next thing if you aren't sure: sand that portion with fine sandpaper. And if you are still in doubt wipe on that portion with a wet cloth - the early wood gets darker!
Good luck - it is a very nice piece of wood.
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Thanks for checking in Pappy and Simon, and thanks for the input. Two guys that I admire and both with opposite opinions. I'm gonna give it a whirl and see what happens.
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I think you gotta a good solid plan,,looking good :)