Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Joec123able on June 24, 2016, 02:25:17 pm
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So I've never tryed splicing two pieces of wood and I really want to try it to make use of some old Osage I had cut a few years ago. My problem is I don't have a bandsaw and I have no clue how to approach it using handtools. The only power tool I have is a handheld jigsaw. Anyone ever successfully cut splices without a bandsaw?
(http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q681/joec123able/82%20lincoln/A784A168-C9DB-45B4-A4A5-1A8362EE0DBB_zpszj1nzhif.jpg) (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/joec123able/media/82%20lincoln/A784A168-C9DB-45B4-A4A5-1A8362EE0DBB_zpszj1nzhif.jpg.html)
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Strike up friendship with a fella who has one? >:D
I'm in same boat, so will be looking at the replies . . . most of which will likely be more helpful than mine.
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Maybe do a V-splice if it'd be easier..
I saw some video of people making a Turkish hornbow and cutting the splices with a hand saw, crazy. The wood was much flatter though.
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A very fine toothed hands as would work, depending on your skill with one. And a good jigsaw would work if you got your back flat enough. You could maybe use some sort of putty, or filler, (that would easily come off) to make the back temporarily flat. Drywall mud maybe? Make the cuts with the jigsaw, and remove fill. Just and idea. Cheers - Brendan
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I live in a small town. The high school ag teacher lets me use his bandsaw at school.
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You could temporarily glue a flat block to the belly side. Draw your splice template out in it to give a goot square surface to work on. And have fun with the fine tooth hand saw. Then you can get as close as you can using files and scrapers. If the joint needs to tighten up some more you can boil the ends and clamp then together. I've never fully done this method, but Ive read about people doing it several times.
Kyle
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Get a good saw. It's really not hard to use a handsaw accurately. You can pause and check your work and make sure you are going straight through the billet by having a vertical view of your cut as you go.
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You could maybe try to line everything up (one on top of the other) with hot glue and then cut them both at the same time...?
pics stolen from beaumont vance in ATARN
(https://i.imgur.com/dQ9SHcK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VeQwKaQ.jpg)
...if the staves aren't very thick, that is
and you'd need a very good handsaw. I'm thinking of getting japanese handsaws myself
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A Japanese back saw will do it and they are relatively inexpensive.
If you use a "Z" splice instead of a "W" splice you can cut both at the same time.
Also, you will want to give the handle area a basic shape first. If you don't you will remove most of the splice shaping the handle.
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Lots of good advice here, thank you all.
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I have used a V splice on lighter bow,, I think the other splices would be better say 40# and up. ,but I am just guessing,,
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V splices were used in hornbows over 100# so I'm not sure if W splices are worth it. Maybe it has something to do with the way hornbows are laminated and/or wrapped in sinew at the splices?
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V splices were used in hornbows over 100# so I'm not sure if W splices are worth it. Maybe it has something to do with the way hornbows are laminated and/or wrapped in sinew at the splices?
Is this an example of the V splice you're referring too?
(http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q681/joec123able/2015-07/2575F10E-56DF-48F5-AE08-DBE417C62405_zpsisnv4acy.jpg) (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/joec123able/media/2015-07/2575F10E-56DF-48F5-AE08-DBE417C62405_zpsisnv4acy.jpg.html)
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yeah..
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A hornbow has the advantage of a backing and belly applied over and under the simple v splice.
It's still adequate for a handle with a little help in depth and/or a handle block added.
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V- splice then get the fit as good as you can. Take apart and steam the ends for 15 minutes. Fit together and clamp = Perfect splice :)
I would advise you to do some practise joints first.
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I bought an 8' piece of 1x2 and cut it into 8" pieces. Made six practice splices. Cost about $2. I use Z spices so I can cut both ends at the same time. Steam and clamp every one. I do use a band saw but all the other stuff counts :)
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With a pull saw you probably get a much smoother cut as well
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I don't know if this is hijacking but I have a Lee Valley pull saw and when I try to rip, especially when I'm going straight across the grain, the saw bounces and vibrates as each tooth hits the harder grain. Is there a special pull saw for ripping? I know there is in western hand saws
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I don't know if this is hijacking but I have a Lee Valley pull saw and when I try to rip, especially when I'm going straight across the grain, the saw bounces and vibrates as each tooth hits the harder grain. Is there a special pull saw for ripping? I know there is in western hand saws
Which saw specifically? I have had good luck with just their cheaper pull saws. The ones with the orange or green handle that offer snap in replaceable blades.
They are a bit more all purpose but cut a nice clean kerf.
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The top one. I don't use it for splicing because it has a hard back. The Dewalt does the same thing. I wonder if it's from the growth rings having roughly the same spacing as the teeth?
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Well I did some practicing and now I've started cutting with a jigsaw and I have to say, Osage really does not like being ripped even with brand new blades on the jigsaw it just smoked and burns more than cuts haha.
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I did a W splice on my table saw on my last bow from billets. The last half inch or so I finished with a handsaw. It sure wasn't a perfect fit, but it was close enough for Unibond. Pat B is on the money about narrowing the handle before you draw and cut your splice.
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I did a W splice on my table saw on my last bow from billets. The last half inch or so I finished with a handsaw. It sure wasn't a perfect fit, but it was close enough for Unibond. Pat B is on the money about narrowing the handle before you draw and cut your splice.
I got them both roughly cut out but I have a lot of filing to get it to fit correctly, then steam and clamp.
(http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q681/joec123able/2015-07/1F2D220D-E938-482E-B9CD-19A831138ABF_zpspmmvfwgo.jpg) (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/joec123able/media/2015-07/1F2D220D-E938-482E-B9CD-19A831138ABF_zpspmmvfwgo.jpg.html)