Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: sieddy on June 28, 2016, 05:34:36 am
-
The handle popped off my latest build (lemonwood board with a zebrawood handle) when I was low bracing it. I was surprised cos I've recessed the belly above and below the handle and left the board full thickness (1") at that area. I just used ordinary woodglue (evo-stick exterior) which I thought would be strong enough for the handle.
Do you think I need to upgrade my glue or is it my woodworking? (oh- there was a small glue free spot in the join!) Thanks Si :-)
-
It's probably not the glue but the handle area is bending slightly.
-
Thanks Pat. If that's the case do I need to forget about having a riser?
-
That handle section is too short. It needed to be about 4" longer and them blended in. Try that on your next go round.
-
You could make that work but it depends on the specs of the bow and what you are trying to get out of it
-
Thanks fellas. The bow blank is 70" long 1.5" wide at the fades parallel to the last 12" inch then tapering to half inch tips. The handle area is 4" grip and 1.5" fades.
-
On a 70" long bow it is pretty hard to keep the handle area from wanting to flex. As said above it should have been longer and blended in over more distance.
-
Thanks for your input Badger. I guess I'll have to go back to the drawing board! ::)
-
What PD said. Longer and blended in. Jawge
-
Thank you Sir :)
-
Sam Harper has a nice diagram and photo of how to do a handle. Jawge
http://poorfolkbows.com/oak4.htm
-
Get some tite bond 3 and reglue it
-
I'd make it 4" longer, groove both gluing surfaces with a toothing plane blade, and glue it with Smooth On, clamp nice and snug, and let it sit with a shop light next to it so the heat helps cure it. I usually throw a towel over it to hold in the heat.... leaving a small 'chimney' hole for some heat to escape so it doesn't roast it. Such joints are really durable and can even flex without lifting in the slightest.
-
You could also try layering 1/8" lams. And use a glue like smooth on or urac or resorcinol. Make sure you prep the gluing surface well and get all the old glue off.
-
+1 on the layered laminations. It divides that force over multiple glued seems instead of just the one. I had a stubborn handle on a shorty that eventually got to say on by using lams and I stitched a square of wet(watered down TB3) raw hide over the whole handle section. It tightened right up after drying and seemed to add enough extra support to do the trick.
-
Thanks again fellas. My concern with adding a longer riser is that the belly dips where the old one ended. I don't have enough thickness left to plane it down flat again so I was thinking of adding a wood backing.
Only problem with that is I slightly rounded the edges on the back! ::)
-
you can glue on strips of leather or rawhide and build it up then shape as you wish
-
Thanks Bubby I think I might run with that to keep it simple. I've got another peice of the same wood I could try with backing next time.