Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Shooting and Hunting => Topic started by: Dustinhill on September 21, 2016, 10:44:34 pm
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Hi guys, I've seen some people mention that a longer draw is "smoother". I'm asking because I'm hoping to make a longer bow with a longer draw but am worried that the longer draw would hurt my torn right rotator cuff. (As of now I've only been shooting short draw) However, after thinking about the smooth draw concept I wanted to ask, which would put less strain on a bad shoulder #50 @28 or #50 @20?
Thanks,
Dustin
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if the bow is 50# @20 its going to be like 75# @ full draw. short drawing may or may not hurt that shoulder. youll be engaging different muscles than with proper form. when guys are talking of longer bows having smoother draw its due to the different angle of the string. a longer bow has a lesser angle at 28 inch draw. im not sure if that helps you out. also why 50#? if its just for hunting purposes 45# should still do just fine for taking game, is legal in most areas if not all, and will put less stress on that shoulder.
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A longer bow has a smoother draw for longer draw lengths. So I would recommend a longer bow. Longer than what? Obviously your current bow, but I dont know how long that is. A 68 inch bow with recurves would be sweet as can be to pull back. But it needs to be very well made at lower draw weights or its length and mass will work against energy delivery to the arrow.
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Jayman - I was using #50 for my scenario because it seemed like a pretty common weight. My current bow is 46" ntn and #40 @19. In Pennsylvania the legal weight is #35. I'm only planning on hunting small game this year anyways. it doesn't hurt my shoulder very much at that weight, but I wanted to make a longer bow (65-70") to see how it felt but was worried about what you said sleek, that at a lower weight the mass of it could effect the performance. So for example, would it be a better performing bow if it was #45 @28 then #45 @20 if the bow was 70"?
Thanks for the responses,
Dustin
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Yes, the 45@28 will out preform the 45@20, given both bows was 70 inches, longer power stroke always helps. :)
Pappy
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Build yourself a light weight bow with a longer draw and practice with it. It will also check your reaction to a longer draw without too much chance of injuring your shoulder.
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Also, performance aside, I would think a proper draw length for your physiology would cause less stress on the shoulder than short drawing. My thinking being that as you reach full draw (assuming proper form) your draw arm goes behind your shoulder and the tension should all be in line with your body taking some of the pressure off your shoulder muscles, as opposed to short drawing where it would be off center and your shoulder muscles are holding everything in place. Someone correct me if I'm wrong please.
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I'll figure out what my draw length should be and get making a longer and relatively light bow, Im thinking low 40's. thanks everyone! I appreciate your advice and am looking forward to experimenting with longer draw and shooting without hurting my shoulder!
-Dustin
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I think pulling 40# at 20 inches,, is harder than 40# at 28,, at least it is for me,,
but as suggested , try it to see which one is easier on your shoulder,,
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I had a 70" longbow that was 55# @28". When I pulled it to Full Draw it always felt like about 35#. Very pleasant to shoot.
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Just try to keep the weight down or itll cast like a fly rod
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Good to know mullet thanks! And jayman, you mean physical weight right? As in the weight of the limbs
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Yes physical weight of the limbs. Maybe like a pyramid style for the super light tips
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Depending on how long you go, you could just make the tips whip tillered. It would be like a long riser with shorter limbs. That would allow for less mass in the actual working limbs and allow for a more effecient bow at that bow length.
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Thanks guys, when I start making the bow I'll definitely do that!
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Just had a follow up question as I was checking out the encyclopedia of Native American bows arrows and quivers. All of the long bows in it (above 60in) with the exception of the Sudbury bow, are about 1in wide with little taper to the tips which are usually about 3/4. I know that this is typical of their bows, most in the encyclopedia are like that, but their design seems like it would not be very efficient unless it was a high draw weight based on the information I've learned from you guys. im assuming that there wouldn't be so many if they didn't work but do you guys have any ideas on why they built them like that/how the bow could perform well enough?
Thanks,
Dustin
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Here's an example of what im talking about, this is a bow on p38 next to the Penobscot one.
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yes it would perform well,, the narrow limb would have less mass,, if it did not follow the string much ,, it would have nice cast,, you need to make some and see for yourself,,, the little wider tip,, would not effect it that much,, especially in a white wood,, the wider tip was probaly better suited for a sinew or rawhide sting anyway,,,, if you shot a bow every day for a living,, if you wanted more cast,, going up in weight was probably not an issue,,at all,, if the bow was for hunting, and you were close to your game, the cast was probably not an issue anyway,, ,,, course I am just guessing,, the reason there are so many of them,, is it was an effective bow, that was fairly easy to make,, and didnt take that much wood,,