Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Drewster on September 23, 2016, 12:58:43 pm
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This little hickory is growing near my house and I've looked at it for several years wondering if it will make a good bow. It's about 5" diameter at the base. I think the bigger tree fell across this hickory about ten years ago and the hickory has been growing in this position ever since.
Has anyone made a bow from a sapling like this? Any advice? Would appreciate any help.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/drewsumrell/Bow-_zpstefjc1fh.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/drewsumrell/media/Bow-_zpstefjc1fh.jpg.html)
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Cant speak for Hickory specifically, but generally with any wood I have worked....I love me some natural backset, but I have found them harder to keep together, the more backset the more likely they have been to break during the build. Still...love me some natural backset. I would prefer it on the tension side.
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I've made many sapling bows but they were straight growing trees. Jawge
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Yup I think that should work fine! Make sure you get it good and dry. Hickory holds onto moisture
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maybe just pull a bit of the reflex out by clamping it down to cure,,,,
I do like the natural reflex,,
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good question. could you get two staves from that tree? Maybe make a deflex-reflex each stave.
bend the handle into deflex on the shady side stave, and bend the tips into reflex on the sunny side stave.
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good question. could you get two staves from that tree? Maybe make a deflex-reflex each stave.
Thats what I would do. And make em wide and short with a deep narrow handle shaped to fit the hand perfectly.
bend the handle into deflex on the shady side stave, and bend the tips into reflex on the sunny side stave.
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If you had cut it just a couple of years after it got bent it would have had a naturally applied Perry reflex backing. ;)
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Drew, I'd cut the tree and find the optimum stave(s) in it's length. Too much reflex adds a lot of stress to a stave just getting it to brace. When I add reflex to a stave I use a 2x4 block(3 1/2") and raise the tips to that. It usually comes out of the form with 2" to 3" and a flat or slightly reflexed stave when shot in.
The heavily bent area could be made into billets and reflex reduced at glue up.
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I cut a 6" Osage Tay grew at a angle its core was right next to the bark on the lower side. The top Sid was a lot of sap wood and when I split it , it started twisting. Ended up fire wood. But the hickory could be ok