Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: TRACY on March 05, 2008, 10:40:54 am
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Trying to salvage some big osage limbs for billets and have run into an issue about minimum length. The shortest I got was 29" with the majority being 32". Any opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Oh, it is also very straight with wide growth rings.
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The 32"s will make nice 58" bows.
One thing I've considered but not tried would allow a splice where the billets actually butt against one another. The internal part of the splice would come from another separate section of wood. Just cut regular W splices into the billets, cut a third piece to mate these together and then glue up. I'm convinced it would work, and would save 2" of lenght in process, might even be able to cheat an extra inch if you have stiff fades. In this scenario 29" billets would yield a 59" glue up. I personally find it difficult to go much below 58" ntn for a stiff handled bow, but I know fellars have done more. Not sure I'd want a spliced bow to work much in the spliced area.
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With two 32" billets and a 4" splice you'll have a 60" length for a bow. A little short for a conventional stiff-handled bow but you can pull it off if you really keep the fades short and get the whole limb bending. Making a narrow limb will let you even get some bend into the fades. If your draw is less than 28", so much the better. You can also easily make a semi-bendy or bendy handle bow out of spliced billets, for those you have plenty of wood. Even two 29" billets would make a 54" bendy handle bow with no problem.
Might even try a 3" w-splice, I think it'd be strong enough for a 50lb bow. Thats 12" of glue line, my 4" z-splice only has that much glue line and it has never failed me.
Mims you're gettin' fancy with a double splice. Good idea though.
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DCM, I was wondering the same thing about using a spacer to splice both billets into with the W. I'm gonna try it since I have plenty to work with.
Tom, I agree with your advice and especially like the idea of shortening the splice.Thanks!
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Lennie I'm happy to learn you can bendy handle a spliced bow. I'm not surprised I don't reckon, since glue lines should be stronger than surrounding wood, but would not have expected that. The spacer idea is not mine, and not new, but I haven't every tried it. Sounds like it should work just fine. With a W I think you can cheat the splice down to inside of 4" no problem, but it get's a little tedious to work in such a small area. I like to keep my splices just inside of 1" wide.
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It takes nads of steel to shoot a spliced bendy handled bow ;D
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I've made many bows with a W splices 2 1/2" long
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I have made several spliced bendy handle bows, all with a 3" splice. I do cap the splice with another piece to add glue surface then work it down to the desired thickness. Here is such a splice with a cap before I worked the handle down.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/limbreplacement11.jpg)
Here is my last bendy handle spliced bow made from very well matched piggy back billets.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/copperheadquiverandknife.jpg)
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Yep Dano, and that makes it tough to get through the airport quickly.
Of course the ELB counts as a bendy handle design, and there's plenty of history behind ELBs from billets. But that design is long and doesn't focus much stress like a short bendy bow.
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nice Bow Eric....gotta love them Snakes!!!! Got any more??????? >:D
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With a sleeve take down system(or most take down systems) you could get a 58" bow out of the 29" billets. Pat
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I hadn't thought of the metal sleeve for shorter billets, thanks Pat. Also thanks for the info on shorter splice lengths and backings. I would not have thought it to be ok for bendy handle and splices but you learn something new everday. Thanks, Tracy
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Technically you need room for string grooves, so 29" billets would yield ~ 56" ntn. I've made that mistake before. ;0(
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I wouldn't have thought so either Tracy,I would still be scard of it but if these guys say it will
work then I bet it will.I used a sleve on one I am working now but I wanted a take down anyway. :)
Pappy
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Thanks for the pics Eric and advice from all. Very helpful. Thanks Tracy