Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Around the Campfire => Topic started by: Parnell on November 28, 2016, 03:20:06 pm
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I'm wondering how the black powder topic will evolve within PA. Perhaps you read in the last issue of PA the intended inclusion of all things black powder?
Curious moderators, is there talk of a separate category being included on the forum? Also, with the idea of people having to purchase components for rifles and such, I assume folks just need to stick with rules as best as possible with advertising issues and no name dropping with outside references, and of course links?
I've been working on my first project. It's a .54 Hawkins style plains rifle kit I picked up. Slow and steady, been doing quite a bit of reading as I have zero experience and don't want to mess things up. I've been working on a powder horn as well. Mullet helped me out in finding black powder because it is VERY difficult to find a supplier in Florida. Oh well, maybe things will change with the new administration, but I'm skeptical regarding the powder...
Things are fitting together well with the kit and I've realized I need to file the barrel to get the microswirls out of the steel from the manufacturing process and it's coming out nicely. Anybody want to weigh in on my filing over the writing on the barrel regarding manufacturing? Is it to be left alone or can I file over that to clean it up, too?
I'm going to stain the stock with aqua fortis and then treat the steel with cold brown finishing. Another question, should I be using the cold brown on the iron parts of the rifle, like the trigger guard, butt plate, etc.
It'd be fun to see other projects in the works. Eric K's build a long really sparked my interest to find a starting point.
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Here are some pictures of where I'm at with it. Advice well appreciated as I'm progressing carefully.
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Aquafortis on walnut will turn it black, if that is walnut. If it is any other kind of wood do a test patch in the barrel channel to see what it looks like before you jump in with both feet.
If that is a Lyman plains rifle one thing I see people do that really kills the look is to leave the flat place on the back side of the lock panel flat. Round that sucker off.
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Too cool Steve-O! Welcome to the front stuffers club my friend.
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Lookin good Parnell!!
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Nice
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The stamping from the barrel manufacturer is deep enough that to file it out will leave you with a massive gap in the stock. It might also thin the wall a little too much for safety overkill! Kit mfrs want their barrel info in sight, whereas component sets allow you to choose the barrel flat that allows you to put that stamping under the wood.
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Aquafortis on walnut will turn it black, if that is walnut. If it is any other kind of wood do a test patch in the barrel channel to see what it looks like before you jump in with both feet.
If that is a Lyman plains rifle one thing I see people do that really kills the look is to leave the flat place on the back side of the lock panel flat. Round that sucker off.
Good advice, Eric. I've been wondering about over darkening the walnut. I'll test it seperately, but I've been wondering the same thing. I've gotten many pieces of advice from different people, so it's difficult to know whats what. It is a Lyman plains rifle. I'll check out what you mean with the lock panel.
I've been looking at component projects for the future, JW. I'm understanding it more and more. Like archery, there is definitely lots to learn in the beginning, of course. I don't intend to completely file off the stamping but am wondering if there is anything to be gained in "cleaning it up" with the file like the rest of the barrel.
Thanks for the comments, guys. I'll keep this thread going as I progress.
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As for the logo, you can take a drift and tap, tap, tap the letters closed then draw file them away, light taps. It worked on a green mountain barrel I use in my last build, Lyman lettering may be deeper.
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Eric, good idea on tapping over the lettering while it is still in the white.
I have wondered about using some type of liquid metal filler but I do know if any will take a bluing or browning of the barrel.
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I stained the Walnut stock on My Trade Gun - didn't like it, too dark. Sanded it all off and just used Tru Oil - came out real nice. Bob
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I'm glad I posted this up. This is good advice, thanks, keep it coming!
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NC, the liquid filler won't blue or brown.
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NC, the liquid filler won't blue or brown.
And then it will act like a highlighter!!! Bwaaahahaha!
I highly recommend the folks at Tennessee Valley Manufacturing for parts kits. They will also do a lot of the hard work for you like basic shaping the stock, mortises, and barrel channel and all the way to finishing the gun for you, depending on the level of the work you want done. For your first go round, I would recommend a shaped stock, buttplate fitting, and barrel channel/ramrod channel.
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I'm glad to see you get this going, Steve. Finish it and we'll hit the Swamp. Gun season will open soon. Then I'll loan you one of my shotguns or smaller calibers for squirrel season.
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Yeah Eddie ....nothing like hunting squirrels with a 32 cal muzzleloader......
DBar
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It's looking good!
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Yeah Eddie ....nothing like hunting squirrels with a 32 cal muzzleloader......
DBar
O_o I'm somehow interested in how they end up after being hit by those. yet it's not a 50+ cal..
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Might try Lin-Speed available from Brownell's 800-741-0015. Works well on hardwoods, tough finish. Good luck on the project. Remember, PGIF. Powder goes in first! :). Dry balls are embarrassing.
Do we get to go through the pita of verification every time we want to post anything? I am new to this site.
Hawkdancer
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Do we get to go through the pita of verification every time we want to post anything? I am new to this site.
Hawkdancer
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It will stop after awhile, it's to keep spammers out
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I think 3 or 4 times Hawkdancer. ;) Looking good Steve, nice project.
Pappy
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For a first I recommend having the barrel inletted and ramrod hole drilled in a blank, I am not to high on precarves. I only did one precarve without the lock inlet, the precarve was lopsided, it took me a bunch of work to fit my parts on correctly.
For me it is a lot easier to build from a blank with a good full sized plan to follow. I found that drilling all the holes for barrel and ramrod pins as well as lock bolts is much easier with square stock instead of the rounded precarve wood.
Another thing about a blank is you can put in just the right drop and cast off to fit you, with a precarve you are stuck with the drop that is carved in from the factory.
If you do get a precarve, get it with the lock panels shaped but not with the lock inlet. This way you can position the lock perfectly to get the correct touch hole position. With the lock inlet done, if it isn't in the perfect position to line up with the touch hole you have to move the barrel, down or back to position everything correctly.
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I'm glad to see you get this going, Steve. Finish it and we'll hit the Swamp. Gun season will open soon. Then I'll loan you one of my shotguns or smaller calibers for squirrel season.
That sounds like a great time, Eddie. We'll do that, I look forward to it. :)
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Get a good stand up style drill press....you'll be glad you did when it is time to drill holes. A good trick is to determine where your drill bit will exit of the opposite side (bottom)by centering it on the tip of a nail. That is how most holes get drilled off center. They go in where you want on top but do not exit where you want on the bottom. Go slow and straight.
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Looking good!
I got into blackpowder this year when Pappy taught me how to make a powder horn.
I've got the stock and trigger from a cva hawken that I'm going to turn into a .50cal flintlock.
I was going to do a .32cal as well but I've got a new .22 I just bought that will serve that purpose.
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Remember, PGIF. Powder goes in first! :). Dry balls are embarrassing.
Nothing like the shame and humiliation of dry balls in front of your buddies!
(Psst, I got a hawk you can dance with. She's a 27 yr old redtail with a absolute passion for sinking her talons into exposed flesh! She'll keep ya on yer toes, dry or wet balls!)
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Cool prodject.. Coming nicley.. careful when you shoot Mullet's 32cal at rats.. You'll be wanting one ;)
Thanks Leroy
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I don't have .32 yet, I hunt them with a .44 and light loads.
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I had to buy one ''For the grandson when he comes shooting'' it's about the children ;)
Thanks Leroy
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Heck ya, I didn't think of getting him one. ;D
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In the past, I've shot many squirrels with my 32 cal percussion rifle...it has all iron hardware and everything is browned....an everyday poor mans rifle...made it with a cherry wood stock...it's so much fun shooting, once you get started it's hard to stop. My problem these days is my eyes focusing on all three points, front and rear sights and the target......
I have a problem putting a scope on a rifle like that. I've thought about a peep sight, which would be more of the period. But don't know if it would help.
DBar
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Dbar - I find buckhorn sights work pretty good.. I suffer from the same thing.. I have a peep on my hunting rig works real good..
Mullet - It's almost christmas ;D ;D
Thanks Leroy
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Dbar the peep should help alot
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Well I think I'll be looking for a peep that I can attach to the tang of my 32 cal because the squirrels are overrunning the place.
DBar
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I'm with Leroy, I like the buckhorns myself.
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Hey D-Bar! I have seen a number of ORIGINALS with multiple dovetails in the upper flat of the barrel, all in a row marching down the barrel further and further as the owner's eyesight changed. Carefully drift your rear sight out of the gun and set it atop the upper flat and slide it down a wee bit at a time until focus returns, then put a mark an inch further (unless you plan on getting Lasik, or you have Ponce de Leon's secret map to that one special spring in Forida). Either cut your own dovetails or have a gunsmith do it for ya. Drift in a flat blank in the old dovetail to fill it in.
Not only is is historically correct to reset your rear sight on these guns, but it's the ethical choice if you are hunting with it. The gun isn't going to get mad at you over minor aesthetics, if you choose to do this!
Couple years ago a buddy had picked up a rough, but serviceable .32 caplock original. He carried it in his trade goods from one Rendezvous to another. Last I talked, he still had it for sale and it was getting more reasonably priced. Maybe I oughta give him a call?