Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Stick Bender on January 27, 2017, 12:10:43 pm
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Hi Fellas been working on the tiller all morning Im about 2 in away from FD just wondering you guys thoughts its still holding 1 in of reflex & in the unbraced shot the back of the handle is not flat so the bow sits on a angle the limbs seem to be symetrical with some positive tiller ?
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Braced
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Unbraced
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Your unbraced pic says it for set.Looks pretty good.I don't know why these bows look like they are bending more on the lower limb to have a negative tiller looking full draw look.Could be not enough positive tiller or could be the nockng point or the way it's held in the pic.Is it even tillered at the brace?
Overall looks pretty good and your just about there with a little more patience.
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Ok thanks Ed think Im going to let it sweat braced for a few hours could be the way Im knocking dont want to knock a arrow in the house the wife will go nuts !
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Hey we don't want that nuts stuff going on......lol.Thats a good idea to sweat it a bit.Could shoot it with marked arrows to your draw weight too.That's if your handle is carved out anyway.I know you've been waiting on this one and your just about there.Goood looking stick!!!
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Looks to me like your lower limb is bending more and most of that is the middle 1/3 of the limb.
Checking positive tiller at brace on a selfbow isn't accurate because of the unevenness of the wood. Checking at full draw is the most accurate.
I never measure for positive tiller but check it visually on the tree or in a pic of full draw.
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Nope havent carved the handle or tips yet lost another 1/2 oz on mass or better from scraping thats with the string on so if my mass figures are right I should be on target @ 22.5 oz im 2 oz away
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Most times checking mine at brace is transferred to my full draw.Most times my limbs are very very close to even thickness with no unevenness.I look at mine on the tree very close too.
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Sounds like you'll be right in the ball park of the mass theory of Badgers.
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Is there any chance you could flip it end for end and post another picture? Bows on here always(well, mostly always) look like the bottom limb is bending more. I hate to comment on tiller when I see that because I have my doubts. It looks like the camera is the right height and the bow is 90 degrees to the camera so this one might actually be bending too much in the bottom, but I dunno :D
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It does look the way it is that the area on the lower limb from the fade out could bend a scooch more to blend the middle bend of it better.
To me it's very close.
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Ok hear is the reverse shot it does look like it might be bending more the taper is dead smooth both with calipers & gizmo Hum !
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The tiller looks better that way although I still think the inner 1/3 of the top limb is bending a bit much. A few scrapes just below the fades and the tips should do the trick.
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To me it looks like the bottom limb was bending too much in the first picture. In the second it looks like the top limb is bending too much but it doesn't look as bad. I agree with Pat as long as we are talking about the same limb ;D. It would be nice if a computer guru could overlay the pictures so we would know for sure.
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Ok here is a little more scraping in the lower fade & reverse draw
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Reverse
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The last 2 photos look good. Very nice. Jawge
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Thanks George closing in on it trying to make a lighter 45-47 lb hunting bow for late season sub temp hunting at 60 seasons old the sub temps are killing me with the heaver bows !
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I just spent a few minutes and put these pictures into my Windows10 picture viewer. I rotated and flipped and fiddled around and I think I'm with Jawge. Something that made it easier to look at was slightly rotating the pics to get the tips vertical. Your second pic is leaning forward more than the first.
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Ok thanks there Mr DC think im going to call it a day & start back tomorrow took the thicknesse on the tips down & with in 3/4 oz of mass still have to cut the handle & more on the tips I think im going to make Badgers numbers or below still need to lose a little weight also .
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Looks good to me. For me, these are tricky bows to tiller. Not much room for error with such a short working area. Nice work. ;)
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Looks pretty good from here. When I get one to where you're at I'll fling a few arrows both ways --top-bottom/bottom-top -- to see which way feels better and finish the handle accordingly. I've got one bow with a little negative tiller that shoots real sweet.
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Pics look good Ritch.You'll be surprised as to how much more mass your gonna lose fitting your handle and reducing your tips.Losing three pounds on those limbs is'nt much either.Almost just a positive tiller adjustment is all.Nice bow.I like it.
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Ok thanks Ed came in at 20.67 Oz got the tips and thickness scary thin hit target weight @47 lb she is shooting hard even with the tiller string Im going to the range tomorrow for shoot in & once I get it cleaned up & a FF string I will chrony it & post
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Well took this bow to the range for shoot in & found it very stable on realease once I found the knocking sweet spot it was stacking arrows in the kill zone on plastic critters but after about 50 arrows or so I noticed a small splinter on the out side of a pin knot it was pretty brittle wood in that area so I just scrapped it away and stoped shooting I have to decide if I want to patch or raw hide the whole bow ithe ring is knot delaminated or any thing like that , here is a full draw to 29 in. But knocked to high in the pic the bow is still holding reflex and shooting nice.
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Splinter area
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I've had that happen and I did what you did...just scraped it away.
But you have a knot there which is problematic.
For next time...
Knotted areas should be left a little wider. Let the grain swirl around it.
When tillering a knotted area, let it appear flatter than the rest of the limb.
I know that advice is contrary to the perfect tiller picture we often crave.
So what do you do now?
I think you have 2 or 3 options.
One...you can wait and see what happens. But it may break there.
Two...wrap it with sinew set in hide glue or nylon thread set in Duco.
Sinew wrap or rawhide wrap the bow.
Jawge
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I had a Yew bow do much the same thing, it lifted a bit of wood right on the corner. I posted it here and was told that my corners weren't rounded enough. It looks to me like you might be suffering from the same thing. Corners should have at least the radius of a pea.
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Ok thanks guys it's hard to see in the pic but that pin is sitting in a hollow & came up to a sharp edge so I was afraid to round it out any more then I did , I'm going to do a combed flax feathered patch like the Beadman did in his thread & raw hide it ,this bow is shooting to nice I'm going the belt & suspenders route this stave was really narrow & didn't have any extra wood to leave around that knot, in hind site I probably should have raw hided from the start but at least I caught it before it got ugly.