Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: justsomedude on January 27, 2017, 08:53:07 pm
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I am building my first bow. Home Depot Red Oak 1x2. It had pretty good grain. It is 71" end to end and I glued on a 10" block for riser which will be tapered to a 5" grip area. I plan to cut a shelf. 40#@28" is my target draw weight. Tips are 1/2" wide and 3/8" thick (not shaped yet).
I am going to back the bow with some camo cohesive tape/Titebond III. I have..it's a nice pattern that should look pretty slick (better than drywall fiberglass :).
QUESTION: Is it necessary to run the backing the full length (through the riser) or can I just run it to the fades of the riser from each end? I just want to be free to shape the grip without making a mess of the backing. I am guessing that the doubled up riser shouldn't need backing.
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Going to wrap grip with something ... leather, hemp twine, ets,etc? If so, making a mess of the backing in grip area is no biggy as it'll be covered by wrap. Also, stopping backing before grip area may not be aesthetically pleasing ... particularly if backing is not a natural material. ;)
Goodluck!
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That's a good point. I guess I can clean it up around the shelf. Just didn't want to paint myself into a corner....
Should I try to do some shaping before I back it?
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Shaping a grip should not affect your backing. How are you worried about it?
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If I wanted to round/shape the front more after the backing is already on...the backing would be sanded off the grip then anyway. If I shape it out first, then I don't have the option of deciding which limb is the top after I get more into tillering.
I know all of this will all be more obvious after I do a few more
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I have done it both ways, full length or up to the fades, problem using linen its does not clean up that great on the edges like silk or other backings. Titebond III works great. I would first apply a thin coating as a sizing, the backing seems to adhere better. Silk is out for me.
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If the grain is good then don't back it. ::)
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But I'm a chicken!
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If the grain is good then don't back it. ::)
Good point I had a few break with backing and it was very subtle. Others have broke VIOLENTLY without backing. Lucky I still have a face, and I have lots of experience breaking bows... ;)
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Bows break, backed or not, I've had backed bows explode violently and nonbacked just fold over, if it's gonna break it breaks
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I never had a backed bow explode violently. Maybe you broke more than me.. ;D
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I went ahead and backed it to get the experience of doing it.
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I was able to sand the edges of the fabric into the wood as long as there was plenty of titebond in it.
I carved out the grip to fit my hand so I won't likely wrap it.
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That's pretty cool.
What is that camo tape made.of?
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That works just fine!
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Kryptek Highlander camoform brand. Not sure what it is but it is strong and absorbs glue well.
I coated the bow with titebond III and let it sit a few minutes. Stretched the fabric on and clamped the ends. Then coated the fabric with more glue