Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: silent sniper on April 17, 2017, 10:29:22 pm
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Hey guys, this is my first recurve of any sort. I could use a little guidance making sure I am making it right. I have attached some pictures as it is right now. It is 66" long, linen backed hickory, 1.5" wide at the fades with a taper 1/2 down the limb to 3/4" tips. The limbs were heat treated with no reflex added, they were dead straight with the center of the grip.
BTW, the recurves are not the same. One of them splintered on me and I had to patch it. It is the lower limb, and has more of a 90 degree turn then the other side. I think the difference in recurves is messing with me, since the curved top limb recurve is lifting off the string better then the sharp angled bottom limb recurve. i also had to do some heat bending work for string alignment on the recurves. It isn't perfect, the top limb twists a bit a full draw, but the string is staying on the limbs so far.
Please let me know what I could do to improve the tiller. I personally think the top limb fade out needs to work a little more, and the bottom limb could bend some more in the mid/outer limb section. Let me know if I am on the right track or not.
Thanks, SS
Unstrung, notice right recurve is a sharp 90 degree bend while left recurve is a more circular bend.
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk218/action_2008/20170417_212808_zpsqnfeaqbv.jpg) (http://s281.photobucket.com/user/action_2008/media/20170417_212808_zpsqnfeaqbv.jpg.html)
Strung with around a 5.5" brace height. The lower limb measures 1/8" stronger then the top limb.
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk218/action_2008/20170417_210902_zpsa2dkvqmn.jpg) (http://s281.photobucket.com/user/action_2008/media/20170417_210902_zpsa2dkvqmn.jpg.html)
String alignment on the tips through the riser. The tip in the picture is the one I had to work on. It has some twist in it towards the tip.
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk218/action_2008/20170417_211106_zpssp6v4teg.jpg) (http://s281.photobucket.com/user/action_2008/media/20170417_211106_zpssp6v4teg.jpg.html)
Full draw picture. It is drawn around 28.5-29" in the picture pulling somewhere in the 50# range.
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk218/action_2008/Screenshot_2017-04-17-21-34-48_zpsk2mtszg1.png) (http://s281.photobucket.com/user/action_2008/media/Screenshot_2017-04-17-21-34-48_zpsk2mtszg1.png.html)
Full draw picture rotated.
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk218/action_2008/f50f42c8-e23b-41fc-81e5-fa6931df1f84_zpszy3pgaih.png) (http://s281.photobucket.com/user/action_2008/media/f50f42c8-e23b-41fc-81e5-fa6931df1f84_zpszy3pgaih.png.html)
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Looks good.I'd live with it if it's at your draw weight.How does it feel to shoot?
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Tiller looks good to me too. You could bring the bend back into each fade a bit but other than that, shoot it. :OK
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Looks great. I'd leave it how it is and make it pretty!
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Shoot it a bunch before adding the finish.
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I would shoot the snot out of it and if it holds the shape, sand and seal her. Good looking rig.
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Looks good to me, as said I would shoot it a bunch and if all stays the same finish it up. :)
Pappy
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How did you get 90° bends? :o is it the wood or is therebsomething i don't know.
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Some wood is just more bendable.
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Gfugal,
The bottom limb recurve is more of a 90 degree then the top limb. This came from me more or less accidentally breaking it while bending. I took a file and removing the broken/ splintered wood until I was back to good clean wood. This however left me with a limb that was only 1/8" thick. I filed it to a flat surface and glued on a square piece of wood. I then filed it to match the contour of the limb. So far it seems to be holding with no issues. SS
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Looks damn fine to me :)
I'd shoot it a bit, see how it settles and maybe just fiddle and fettle it a little once you've got to know it.
Sometimes I think we need to step away for a bit.
Del
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Nice work!
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Those are some pretty impressive curve nonetheless. Unfortunately, I don't know how much good they are doing you. It looks like your limbs are too long for them since at full draw the string still hasn't lifted off yet (or just barely starting). I can't see the extra weight hurting too much, just consider them sweet looking onramental tips.
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Those are some pretty impressive curve nonetheless. Unfortunately, I don't know how much good they are doing you. It looks like your limbs are too long for them since at full draw the string still hasn't lifted off yet (or just barely starting). I can't see the extra weight hurting too much, just consider them sweet looking onramental tips.
This again?
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I would be more than excited if that's how my first static recurve turns out. Let us know how she shoots after you've put a few hundred arrows down range!
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Those are some pretty impressive curve nonetheless. Unfortunately, I don't know how much good they are doing you. It looks like your limbs are too long for them since at full draw the string still hasn't lifted off yet (or just barely starting). I can't see the extra weight hurting too much, just consider them sweet looking onramental tips.
This again?
Again? I don't see any mention of it proir. Maybe i missed it on another thread. Is there some other advantage of recurves other than string angle? Cause at full draw that string angle is pretty much the same as it would be if he cut the statics off.
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Greg, I agree that the tips aren't being used to their potential but the string angle at the tips is not the same as if the tips were cut off. With the string not lifting off the recurves there is very little string angle at the tips. If you cut the curves off the string angle would be about 90 degs.
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A sharp static tends to have much higher brace tension, regardless of what happens later in the draw.
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if you shot it through a chrono,,, you could compare it to how a straight tip bow would shoot,, I am sure the bow is smooth to draw and fun to shoot,,
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I fully agree that the limbs are too long on this bow, 2-3" shorter overall length would of been much better for this design. I initially had extra long riser fade outs to try to shorten the working part of limbs, but decided against it as I would rather build longer lower stressed limbs at this point in my bow making journey. Once I have a few 'curves under my belt I will try to get the most I can out of the design. For now I am working on the basics. I am just happy after 4 failed attempts that I got the recurves to bend without snapping in half!
I will shoot her for a few weeks and report back if the results are good. Thanks for all the help, SS
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if the bow is shooting nice for you,, that is key,, and an overbuilt bow is never gonna break,,( well less likely) some of my best bows are not pushing the limit of the design, but have taken game and still shooting 20 years later,,