Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: cool_98_555 on May 04, 2017, 11:13:20 am
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Hi everyone,
I am making a reflex bow and I'm in the process of tillering it enough to the point where I can get it braced. Problem is it is going to be a heavy bow so it's even harder to get it braced the first time. On the long string the limbs have travelled about 6-7 inches past where the limbs are flat. I am around 95# on the long string at that point right now and I am aiming for 105#. If I were able to get it braced, would I still be able to get my draw weight i'm looking for? Unstrung I still have around 1-2" of reflex. It is 66" long tip to tip and will be bending through the handle. Draw length is 29".
Thanks guys!
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Dunno, but you are probably virtually there already.
Read this!
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/yew-stick-bow-and-draw-weight-to-brace.html (http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/yew-stick-bow-and-draw-weight-to-brace.html)
Watch this!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGKt8bEa-Ig&list=PLBz2tD9476KRkSOSICLsc-zj5ADyPKLZB&index=3 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGKt8bEa-Ig&list=PLBz2tD9476KRkSOSICLsc-zj5ADyPKLZB&index=3)
Bottom line, if you want 105#... pull it to 105/ else you'll end up under weight, especially with heavy bows.
Del
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Long getting vs braced. If pulled to the same distance on The tree will will pull about the same draw weight. The difference is in how the limbs are bending. Going from long string to brace makes the limbs bend more towards the tips. So let's say you pull 80# at 24" on the long string. Brace it and it'll be about the same 80# at 24". The difference is that if you tiller looked good on the long string, it's now whip tillered at full brace. So to get things correct, you will end up under weight. That's why you get off the long string as soon as possible. On low quality woods I'll push closer to full draw length at weight to keep stress off the wood. So that when Its braced it's already almost at full draw. But you need to know how long string vs brace affects the tiller and compensate before getting that close.
Kyle
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I agree with moon catcher, the weight won't change much but the tiller shape will.
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I agree with above ,,, if it was my bow, I would tie some temporary nocks below the string nocks,,
put the long string on those,,and put a second string on the bow and string it,,use the long string like a stringer,, put your foot on it pull up till it is enough you can brace it,,
then you will know exactly where you at,,
ok from what Badger said, if its 95 at 10 inches,, then you got a bit of weight to work with,, 19 more inches X 2.5 is 47.5,,, that would put you at about ,,,142# at 29 inches,,
roughly,,I am not a math guy,, but I think you got enough weight to get it strung and even the tiller and get your 100 plus,, let us know how it goes,, I love it when I am right,, :laugh:
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I've never made that heavy a bow.
For bows that are reflexed, I long string tiller out to 10 inches+reflex looking for good limb movement and tiller. I also look to get target weightier a little above at that distance.
Then I string it and tiller.
Jawge
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thanks George, that sounds pretty clear,, I sure hope he gets a nice bow out of that,, (-S
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Thanks for all your input guys. I think I will continue on the long string for another 3 or 4 inches before trying to brace it. I'm hoping to get a nice bow out of it too! Should look amazing if it makes it through too....quad lam of osage, bloodwood, wenge, and bamboo. Wish me luck!
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you can do it,, :BB