Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: wildcat hunter on May 26, 2017, 07:36:33 pm
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I haven't completed a self bow for 3 years now. I tried a few but am having shoulder problems ( rotator Cuff X's 2 ). Just getting the bark off is a chore anymore. I have a question on Hickory bows. Do I have to follow the grain on the back ? Another one what "cut" is best for Hickory EX: quarter sawn OR ?. I have a desire to complete some bows and would be using my equipment instead of my arms to work the wood, I think shaping the grip should be no problem.
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With summer cut hickory you just peel the bark off and there is your back. No ring chasing and it is the strongest possible back for a hickory selfbow.
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OK, thanks Pat, my friend has a saw mill and said he would cut me a few boards when he gets some Hickory in. Thats why I was asking.
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When your friend starts to cut the first slab maybe you could have him cut it a couple inches thick. Then you would just need to peel the bark off and viola instant back. As far as boards I do not think it matters whether flat, rift or quarter sawn. I am sure I will find out since I have some hickory boards that I will be working on.
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Don't confuse board cut hickory with log stave hickory.
With any board the ideal is straight grained stock tip to tip. Any board cut will do. But for 1/4 cuts make sure the EDGE grain is straight.
With log staves of any whitewood including hickory, as Pat said, take off the bark and make a bow.
I like Linc's idea.
More on my site.
http://traditionalarchery101.com
Jawge
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OK, Thanks guys, I'll check your website George. Thanks