Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: NOMADIC PIRATE on March 19, 2008, 05:46:45 pm
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Frank's and Keenan's latest ones surely look great.
I've being going back to those treads a lot in the last few days to try get a grasp of the full draw tiller.
you see I have this gull wing bow that I've being tillering to 24", before applying sinew, and I'm ready to pick it up again,but it allways seems that it's bending to much at the fades and to strait on the second half of the limbs,
but looking at those to bows, I guess it's the way :D.
I was wandering, is there a process to mentaly block out the normal tillering eye? and is there a model you keep to go back an check tiller ?
Here's what I'm working with
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d124/NorthShoreLB/gull001-1.jpg)
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d124/NorthShoreLB/gull003-1.jpg)
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... it allways seems that it's bending to much at the fades and to strait on the second half of the limbs,
but looking at those to bows, I guess it's the way :D.
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i guess i would call yours a double-curve (set-back handle and recurves/asien style/like my bamboo composite)!
keenan's actually is a gullwing (set-back handle and straight or even deflex limbs/native american style)
your unbraced profile looks great to me, and from what i have seen you doing to guava it should handle that sort of bend easily - probably without the sinew even! how long is it??
would be great to see braced and 24"pull pics, too.
frank
ps: you really seem to be back, man!
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You see I know nothing about bows ;D...don't even kow the difference, or how to describe them :D :D :D
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Wow! How did you ever cut that from the tree? ;)
Rich
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all natural Rich :) It was keeping the profile pretty good to, but I wanted to experiment with sinew,... Frank it's 64"ntn
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No expert here manny but from what I have read at that length sinew will add mass but not performance.
The sinew is heavier than wood so more mass to get moving. It will protect the back though.
Just a thought curious what others think ???
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I agree with medicinewheel...looks like a double-curve/recurve to me.
To reduce weight you might try applying sinew only to the "working" areas of the limbs and leave the non-bending tips bare.
Nice bow. 8)
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Sort of looks like the Bow I just started ....modeled after the Bow on Page 66 of BB #3......Cupids Bow.........
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Right on, :o good for you Manny ;D, If we aren't trying new things we arn't learning much. You are right those Gull wing bows are tricky to tiller for sure. The mid limb is in transition to reflex and the pronounced deflex right at the fades makes any amount of bending right there look like to much. You always have to remain mindfull of the unbraced profile and just make sure everything is moving in preportion. I take pics constantly against a grid to check ballance and also use a photo program to pull an equlispe to check as well. Hope that helps. Can't wait to see how it comes out.
As far as the sinew a single layer would add some protection without adding alot of mass and from what I've seen of the gauva I dout it would even slow a fraction. Keenan
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Here is a pic,hope this helps, Keenan
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Keenan, Thanks for the picture, it explains a lot that I wasn't quite grasping in your description.
Walt Francis
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all natural Rich :) It was keeping the profile pretty good to, but I wanted to experiment with sinew,... Frank it's 64"ntn
WOW...i thought the handle was probably natural, but the whole stave!? no flipped tips?? probably had a tag on saying 'cut me, i'm a bow!'...nah..probably 'kiss me, i'm a bow!!'
not sure about the length, don't know the wood at all; a sinew backing might put extra stress on the belly as well!?
keenan, that picture is a fanfastic explanation!
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Can't wait to see that one finished.Cool. :)
Pappy
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Thanks for the picture Keenan, I'll bring it up once I'll get to tiller this baby.
Yeah it's only one layer of sinew, I wanted to experiment with it, and one layer can't be all that heavy :)