Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DC on October 14, 2017, 12:16:43 pm
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I'm thinking of sinewing this bow. Is there any possibility that the sinew may pull off the dips and wobbles? It's a Yew branch, 64"TTT. I'm looking for a dependable 40#@27"
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Good luck with that one
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It was a short branch so the hooks are "V" jointed on. I might(probably) reduce them. I made them big just to cover any possibility.
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As I've been learning lately, string alignment is a B sometimes.
I suppose it could pull off the dips but I'm really wondering why sinew?
It's enough I would think for that draw and weight. I'm working on my first yew now and I think I am getting a tree monkey on my back.
I have also wondered about the effectiveness of sinew going through lateral curves that radical. Not sure but I think it may diminish it's effect of stretch since it is not stretching straight, but sideways. Hope that makes sense.
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Those are all the things that are going through my mind. I'm looking for a couple of experienced guys to say, "Yeh, no problem." I'm not sure if I will sinew it. It depends on the weight once I get a little deeper into the tillering. If it looks like I can reach my goal without sinew, I'll leave it. I'm just getting temp nocks on it now.
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Would rawhide be a better option?
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I would wrap it in the dips while drying,,
bow string or somethig,,
if you have to tiller more ok,, but wrap it again,,when finished,,
if you get it shooting well,, I wouldnt go to crazy trying to make it look perfect,,
if the unbraced profile is staying and not taking set ,, just shoot it and enjoy,,
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Thanks Brad. There is no way this is ever going to look perfect, even if it was. I'm steaming it for a little string alignment so I'm going to try and take a little of the deflex out of the left limb.
OO I'm only going to back it if it's underweight. I don't have any thin rawhide and I've never used it. Rawhide only adds security, I believe, and if it breaks it breaks. The back is sound. Thanks for the suggestion though.
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i think it will make a bow, and sinew sure wouldnt hurt it,, especially a thin layer,,
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It is a waste of time sinewing that and yes you would run into problems with the sinew lifting.
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If you really think it need some kind of backing, I would put down some silk and then cover the silk with snake or fish skins. Snake would look really nice with those bends.
How much heart wood you have left on that thing?
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If you really think it need some kind of backing, I would put down some silk and then cover the silk with snake or fish skins. Snake would look really nice with those bends.
How much heart wood you have left on that thing?
It's a branch so the sapwood is only about 1/8" thick. It's mostly heartwood.
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I have sinewed some pretty snakey curves,, and it was not a waste of time,,
and I guess that would vary from bow to bow,,,
in my opinion,, on lateral curves that tend to seperate at full draw,, the sinew adds stability to them,, making the bow a bit more likey to stay a bow,,, if it was my bow,,, I would tiller to half draw,, then put the sinew on before going to full draw,, I would wrap the sinew in areas that were likely to lift,,,, then I would shoot the bow as is with no additional tillering,,,unless I re wrapped after taking off wood,,,
looking at the bow ,,, I am just spit balling that the weight may be less than you want,, and the sinew would bring that up a bit,, or you could pull it to full draw with no backing,, and if it works you are good to go,,,:)
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It's a very bendy piece of Yew that's why I am considering sinew. I've had it braced and it looked like if I was really careful I may make the weight. When I was steaming the string alignment I reflexed the left limb so that will help me as long as it doesn't pull out. I got to thinking about when I harvested it and that was in April so that's only about 7 months. It's been in the warm box for about 3 months and hasn't lost any weight for a few weeks but maybe it's still a little damp. I'll weigh it and leave it be for a while just to double check. I've got other bows to work on.
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WoW! What a stave, I'm really looking forward to see how this one turns out.
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Sure hope you can get a shooter D.C. She really has the curves
Bjrogg
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+1 with Hamish! That is a wonky, snakey,, even snarky bow :BB! Even as a wall hanger, it deserves a name - " Wonky Snark"? Hope it works for you!
Hawkdancer
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To nice a bow to mess up with sinew
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I wonder how tension would be distributed along the back with all those rollercoaster hills. Would it still be an even distribution?
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I've always kinda thought that instead of an even bending thing it would be a mix of bending and twisting. Whether that makes any difference I have no idea. Does twisted wood rebound better or worse than bent wood? The limbs measure the same length in a straight line but the limb on the right (top limb) is a full inch longer if you follow the bends.
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I wonder how tension would be distributed along the back with all those rollercoaster hills. Would it still be an even distribution?
The reflex part of the hills will be stiff, the deflex parts will be very weak in comparison. I dont know how he is going to tiller this bow. Were I to guess, id say leave the deflexed part of the hills very very thick and thin out the reflexed part. Even still, this is going to be tricky because once you get reflex thinned out to start bending, as mechanical advantage takes over when it starts to flatten out, it looses its strength and becomes a weak spot.
I am praying to the now gods to smile upon this stick and let life be breathed into it.
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yes the lateral bends add another element of stress,, I think the sinew would help that,,,especially if wrapped in the bad areas,, at the risk of repeating myself,, I had a bow with bad twist, or snakey,, at full draw one of the snakes,,, started to pull apart at the grain,, with the lateral tension,, I wrapped it,, it was ok, then the other snake started to fail as well and the tiller shifted,,
so I sinew backed the snakey area and that part stiffend up adjusting the tiller,, and I wrapped it as well , the bow is still shooting a year later,, it was never gonna make it without the wraps and sinew,,d
I am not saying this bow will come apart,,but since I am old ,, more patient and conservative than I used to be,, the little extra work to put the sinew on,, would definitely increase the odds of success,, or at least linen wrap the areas with lateral stress,,
if you do that and it holds up you might wonder,, would it have made it with out that ,, while you are shooting it,,,
in my experience,, geting the taper even on the reflex and deflex, ,is the best option, no need to over think that,, its easy to make the reflex bend too much and then you have a weak spot like sleek said,,
if you want to make it no sinew or wrap,, then think about reducing draw and target weight, ,, I try not to give advice unless I have experience with a given situation,, if I dont,,, I usaually say I am just guessing or spit balling,,,
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Thanks Brad. There is no way this is ever going to look perfect, even if it was. I'm steaming it for a little string alignment so I'm going to try and take a little of the deflex out of the left limb.
OO I'm only going to back it if it's underweight. I don't have any thin rawhide and I've never used it. Rawhide only adds security, I believe, and if it breaks it breaks. The back is sound. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Are the limbs bending yet? Make sure they don't twist as you draw, or your limb alignment and string may be off. I would rawhide it myself, only after I made sure the limbs were on. You won't need to get to fully draw to know this.
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Yes, I've pulled it a bit and corrected the alignment. It's in the warm box losing about a gram a day so I'll let it sit for a bit. When I roughed this out I had no choice but to cut it where I did as one side was clear and the other was full of knots. The grain looks good down the back but it's really hard to see. It doesn't look twisted but if it is I may get a surprise.
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put your fears aside and proceed with courgage,, (SH)