Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: JWMALONE on January 20, 2018, 03:25:12 pm
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Hello guys, so I'm tillering a hickory bow 71 t2t. I'm shooting for #50 @28 so here is the question. I cut some nocks in it put a string on it. The string is tight to the handle no brace, I'm talking trout line tight not banjo string tight. I pulled it to #48 @21 inches looks to be bending nice and smooth and even. How high should I brace it up at this point? I'm searching my older post I believe ive been told already but that was a different bow. My last bow was also my first explosion so I'm a lil gun shy here.
Thanks Guys, and Gals.
(http://i.imgur.com/aCO2szH.jpg) (https://imgur.com/aCO2szH)
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I think you should brace it at about 4 inches now. you will find it still pulls 48 at 21.which is probably 60+ at 28. remember never pull it past 50 lbs, and for now, just pull it to about 10 inches and take a pic for us
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Thanks Aaron.
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JW,
Make sure your limbs are bending even also...I strung one up when I first started and after stringing it look like a hockey stick...One limb was way stronger, never forgot that lesson...It caused set in one limb...Your last bow looked great and you already know this...
Don
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Ok guys, this is 20 inches. its a flat bow design 1 3/8 wide out 8 inches then tapers to .5 tips. 71 t2t outer limbs need to bend more don't they? 4 inch brace also
(http://i.imgur.com/aCO2szHl.jpg) (https://imgur.com/aCO2szH)
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John, about 6" above your hand is flat then it bends for about 6". Mark that bending 6" and don't touch it until the limb bends above and below it. The bottom limb seems to bend pretty good but is stiffer than the top.
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Thanks Pat, don't I know you from somewhere? Ive been working that bottom limb with the gizmo I knew it was still stif but I got the flat spots out. Ill work on the top now.
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JW, even if your string is loose and hangs down a few inches it will still read about the same as if it were braced. I usually brace them when they read about 50#@24". Once I get the tiller straightened out good I like to work it up to 50# on every pull. I also prefer to leave my outer 8" or so stiff.
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I think this bow is coming along just fine. I think if you follow Badger's advice it will be perfect! :)
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I look to get target weight +5# at 10" of string movement (not nock movement) at 10". That puts the potential bow at 10-15# over target weight at 26".
Looks like mid limb on needs to bend more to me.
There are buildalongs on my site.
http://traditionalarchery101.com
Jawge
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Jawge, String movement tells you exactly nothing unless you start the string from the exact same place every time. Just reading the weight where you are at is far more accurate and it doesn't even matter all that much how much slack is in your string as long as you are somewhere between 2" and 10" slack it will read very much the same at the same draw length. , Not trying to disagree with you but string movement doesn't tell anything.
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Badger,
Let me reexplain even though I go through it on my buildalongs.
So what I do is loop the string over the nocks, stretch it taught, mark it, and measure down 10 inches. String length is a little over the length of the limb.
Then I begin to get the limbs bending well and reduce the weight.
I aim for target weight + 5# at 10 inches of string movement...NOT tip movement. The tips move at best 2-3 inches in a finished bow.Then I string it. Low brace. This puts me 10-15# over target weight which is enough for me to tiller the bow. But the limbs are not too heavy to string the bow without needlessly stressing the limbs.
I've tested it. It works. I've used it since the early 90s.
"String movement tells you exactly nothing unless you start the string from the exact same place every time. (I start at the same place).Just reading the weight where you are at is far more accurate and it doesn't even matter all that much how much slack is in your string as long as you are somewhere between 2" and 10" slack it will read very much the same at the same draw length. (Yes, we are making in roads. I do measure weight as I go along. I told you this last time we discussed this. The length of the long string doesn't matter much). Not trying to disagree with you but string movement doesn't tell anything. (It tells you how well the limbs are bending and if you measure the weight at 10" it predicts the future bow weight.)"
So that's how I determine when the bow is ready for the short string.
Jawge
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Some how I understand all this. Thanks guys, feel free to continue the discussion.
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Jawge, in the first post I didn't see where you indicated the string length which would be necessary for that method.
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Badger, I don't think the string length is that crucial.
BTW this is for a 26" draw. For longer draw we could set up a proportion.
In my early days, I was breaking staves because they were too heavy to be strung so I developed this method.
I could probably do it by feel now but could not then.
Anyway it has served me well.
Jawge
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My last and first break was my last bow and it broke while stringing. it was also red oak not hickory. It was fairly heavy. This answers a lot of questions I had on how to know when to brace and why. Thanks Guys.