Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Mo_coon-catcher on May 24, 2018, 01:18:46 pm
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I decided to finically make a fishing bow I can use a muzzy spin cast real with. Essentially extrnding the handle so the insert will be glued into the handle not the fade. I decided to use hickory for an indestructible fishing bow as opposed to the fastest in humid, wet conditions since power isn’t really needed, but Then compensated for that by laying it out to be 70# to keep the speed up a bit Incase of some big fish.But which of these would be the best sealant for the occasional submersion into te lake or river. Beeswax, parafin wax, truoil, or a mix of these. If I use a wax it will be melted in until it won’t soak up any more. I’m leaning towards parafin with a little pine resin to toughen it up a bit, like you’d use to coat traps.
What’s your all’s opinions.
Thanks,
Kyle
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Epoxy, just like a boat.
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Parafin soaked in kerosene with bees wax makes a great sealant. The kerosene disolves the wax and carries it into the woid. Gadda be careful cause you need to heat the kerosene to melt the wax.
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Pat is right, two ton epoxy dissolved in acetone and with about 6 or 7 coats applied, let each coat cure overnight, bombproof.
Back before I got lazy I put this finish on all my arrows, I could loose one under the grass for months, find it, put new feathers on it and keep shooting. Moisture didn't get through the epoxy.
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Any normal bow finish should protect your bow well enough. Just clean it off afterwards. I've sat through some pretty heavy rain while hunting with no adverse affects to my bows. I've used Tru-Oil for years.
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The late great Dean Torges did a finish test. Parafin wax(by itself) melted in with a heat guncame in at #1. It was the best finish for keeping water from soaking in to the surface when submerged and also for keeping out ambient moisture from rehydrating already dry wood.
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I thought that I read somewhere that Dean had maybe done an about face on paraffin for some reason. Could be repeating some erroneous info though.
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I agree that a 2 part epoxy finish is probably best. I used Krystal on my other type bows and had one submerged in salt water in Alaska at least an hour (long story)with no ill effects.
But i also agree with pat b, any finish should work for normal bow fishing, especially with a rubbed on wax coating.
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epoxy and polyester resins are used to make surf, windsurf, canoes and kitesurf boards. You cant go wrong with those.
it's different if you want to stay primitive
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I have been looking into using Krystall or Tbird I have herd good things but the hunting bow Im finishing this week end, Im using tru oil and Johnson floor wax its been a great tuff finish for me for adverse conditions ! I herd the Krystal drys in minutes between coats I have another to finish I might use it !
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Thunderbird goes on all of my bows, bowfishing selfbows included. They've been soaked, even submerged on occasion. Oops.
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Pre catalyzed dull magna lac lacquer.3 or 4 thin coats from a spray gun.Mix 1 to 4 lacquer thinner to magna lac.Dries very fast/outside durability excellent.No yellowing.Scratches can be blended in easily with a little sanding.
My FG making friends here used to use T-bird and krystal and have switched to magna lac quite some time ago.
Not paleo but effective.
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Non modern finishes - equal parts pine tar, linseed oil, and real turpentine. Or beeswax and flax oil, 1:4, or 2:3, beeswax to flax oil. I use that on my spoons, food safe, and arrows. waterproof, and rubs in well. Does need to be reapplied occasionally.
Hawkdancer
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Hey Ed does that finish get thin enough to feed threw a gravity feed air brush ? And its only sold by the gallon ? What kind of $$ ? Sounds like a great finish !
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You can thin it as much as needed with lacquer thinner.The woodsmith store nearest you would have it.The dull finish is what to get.I think I remember it being $43.00/gallon.I go in halves with a friend of mine.1/2 gallon does a heck of a lot of bows and as many as I've done it's quick and easy.
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Yawn.... no pictures....
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Thanks for posting the thread Mo coon ,Ok thanks Ed I found the pre catalyzed lacquer in a rattle can to !
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Hey Pat, I hadn't heard of Dean doing an about face with paraffin. Couldn't see anything about in on the web either. Where might you have heard that?
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Back in the mid 80s, I bought some wooden snowshoes. The directions said to reapply spar urethane to them which I do. Years ago I started using the spray on my bows. It is the best I've used but still raises grain in a heavy rain. Maybe if I applied more than 3 coats it would be better.
Jawge
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I tried a tip I got off a guitar makers forum today on a bow I mixed Tru oil & denatured alcohol 50/50 and it worked great the wood really took it in deep ,after the 3 rd coat I switched to 20 % alcohol it only takes about 90 minutes to dry enough for another coat was able to get 5 coats today I'm going to try air brushing on the other bow I'm doing.
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Thanks for all the tips everyone. Isn’t sure which method I want to go with yet. I haven’t worked on the bow since I roughed it out. I brought the stave in from the humidity and have been working in some other projects, like some cattail quivers for some friends and my Grampa. Some of these ways of sealing the bows I’ll have to keep in mind for later projects.
Thanks,
Kyle