Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: Mesophilic on June 02, 2018, 01:50:21 pm
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How do you guys cut slots for trade points?
Tried a bandsaw, hacksaw, and coping saw. I end up wandering and the cut veers to one side or the other. I've been able to clean the slots up a bit but without assistance my points don't point straight and true, and the slot ends up too wide. I've been shimming and using epoxy for its gap filling properties and it works, but I'd rather do it right from the get go.
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I wrap tape around the shaft where I want my cut to stop. I use a hacksaw and then needle files to clean it up.
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I cut the slot with the bandsaw then flip it over and go through the same cut from the other side to even it up. Like Clint I also dress up the cut but I use sandpaper folded and refold if I need to get wider. I also like to start with a pre-tapered end. This helps me keep centered.
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PatB, do you do anything special to hold the shaft or align? A jig? When I use the bandsaw, the side facing up usually looks good and centered. Then when I flip it the other side will be way off center. If I go back through the cut I'll often end up screwing up the side that looked good to begin with.
Thanks for the tips about pre-tapering, that might help out alot.
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Clamp the arrow in a vise straight up and with a sharp triangle file start filing in a notch. You can correct if you aren't going straight across. File until you have a "V" groove about 1/8"(maybe a bit less) wide and nicely centered. Now go to the band saw. When you feed the arrow into the saw the "V" groove kind of centers everything up. Hold the arrow a bit loosely so it can rotate and find the "V" groove.
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Cheese, I do it freehand but a guide will certainly help you out. Do you have the upper blade guide close to your work. If you do you shouldn't have much side to side blade movement so you'll get a better cut.
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I'm using a modified port-a-band...guess the right tool for the job comes in to play? :o
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try a hand saw or hack saw. ;D
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I use a hacksaw blade to start it and a pocket knife to shave it wider bit by bit. Check the fit, shave some more, sip my beer, and try it again.
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Very slowly and carefully >:D
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I use a hacksaw blade to start it and a pocket knife to shave it wider bit by bit. Check the fit, shave some more, sip my beer, and try it again.
If you get up to twelve beers and it still doesn't work you are probably doing something wrong ;) ;) ;)
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Beer and sharp pointy things aren't so good a combo for me ;D
I think next batch I'll slot it before final trim length. Cut, nock, and fletch once satisfied with the point.
This ought to give me some wiggle room.
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I always drink beer slower when working on things, you're just busy. I have to keep the cans in my Shiti can cooler. ;D
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i use a metal a metal tube thats slightly bigger that my arrow shaft and cut a groove in the metal tubing thats straight and centered. i leave a 1/8th" wide bit of metal on the bottom so its not cut completely in half and i use that as a guide when cutting my slot for the trade points. just put in a vise and align it how you want it with the grain and start cutting.
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Slick solution Mafort.I like it.
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Personally dieselcheese I make all my arrows self nocks.Might be good practice when trying to cut a slot for a trade point.Cutting slots for nocks are little at a time process most times checking like said to be sure the cut is straight and centered.I use 2 hacksaw blades taped together to get close then have little hobby files to finish.I have 1 small round file that is exactly the circumference of my serving on the string.I made a short section of serving that I use to test with while making the nocks.My nocks snap on lightly to the string just as plastic ones do.They come off with the tap of my finger but hang on enough onto the string by themselves too.
Putting horn inserts 1" long opposite your nock can help preserve the integrity of your nock too.Don't think that's needed for your trade point mounting though as good wrapping below trade point will prevent splitting.
I wrap all self nocks and trade point mounts a good 1/2" to 3/4" below slot.I use diamond nylon serving put on very tight and then sized with very thin super glue.Not all that primitive or paleo but I've never had one split even after being robin hooded a couple times.
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I cut the initial slot on my bandsaw. Then I fold a piece of 100 grit sandpaper over 4 times. Start working the sandpaper down into the slot. When the sand paper works easily the slot is the right size for a trade point.
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I cut the slot with the bandsaw then flip it over and go through the same cut from the other side to even it up. Like Clint I also dress up the cut but I use sandpaper folded and refold if I need to get wider. I also like to start with a pre-tapered end. This helps me keep centered.
I do like Pat but use a guide that I made which has a stop, I use it for points or selfnocks. The guide is nothing more than a piece of wood with a slot cut into it for the bandsaw blade and a groove down the middle for the shaft to sit in and is adjustable for depth of cut
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I use a Dremel. Slicker than Pelican snot. Takes less than a minute once you get on to it.
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Here's a pic arron of a jig I made that cuts perfect slots every time.
(https://i.imgur.com/4zLe6np.jpg)
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I have a commercial product that looks much like the photo that BowEd posted called a Nifty Nocker. Has a short slot for the nock end of the arrow and a long slot for the point end. The Nifty Nocker is made out of aluminum and works very well.