Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: upstatenybowyer on September 01, 2018, 06:39:08 pm
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I'm new to this style and wondering what ya'll think of the tiller. It's for a friend w/ a 30" draw, and I'm only pulling it to about 28.5. Let me know what you think and don't hold back!
Thanks :)
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I would try and get the last 1.5" from the outer half.
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Jeff , you've got more experience at this style bow than I do. I'd love to give you some great advice, but I'm afraid anything I say is just a guess. I think I'd agree with DC though. It does seem to be bending a lot out of fade, but I'm thinking that D/R should. Having said that I'm thinking the rest of the bend should probably come from outer limb. Hope that's not bad advice.
Bjrogg
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If you look at the outer half of both limbs in all the pictures they all look the same. I don't think they are bending much, if at all. I find the inner, just out of the fades, is the toughest part. Because it's already bent to start with it's hard to tell when it's right.
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You're bending hard right out of the fades. Try to get the outer part of the limbs bending more.
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You're bending hard right out of the fades. Try to get the outer part of the limbs bending more.
Mark, I'm just curious. That's what I'm seeing to. Would you take a little stress off the fades by getting a little more bend just past that area? I agree the outers should bend more to, but wondering if that's not going to cause a lot of stress in the area mentioned without feathering in that bend?
Bjrogg
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Jeff what you have build is what I would call a lever bow, concentrated bend just at a short area after the fades. You're asking a lot from this area, be careful to get no chrysals. Like the others said work to get the bend more spreaded along the limbs. That lever bows (like mollegabets too) makes only sense when the levers are light for giving the energy to the arrow. So if it was me, I would work on the sides of the levers and not on the belly!
Good luck
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What many have stated already. You need more bending in the rest of the limbs . Leave the fades alone.
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I hear you guys 100%. Luckily, this one still has plenty of weight left to work with and it is experimental, so I wont be at all devastated if it doesn't work out. I'm trying to copy Marc's bows if you haven't noticed and it's no easy task to say the least. Thanks for all the input. :)
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My thoughts are they should be tillered like a normal bows shape,save that little bit of reflex at full draw.i think when bracing it's like preloading a spring and increasing string tention and travel.in the pic you look can see a mild deflex handle and slighlty recurve tips,a little different but the same priciple .the full draw shows a full arc.in some cases I has seen some what of a angular brace and go more towards a arc at full draw.just my thoughts though.a shot from Marc also.
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Removing wood from the outer limbs will reduce the stress on the inner portion of the limb. When I floor tiller these mine I always make sure to get the outer limbs moving a little.
I agree the lever type tiller is for a different type bow. Get the reflexed part of the limb working and it will soot much better and take pressure off the inner portion.
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Makes a ton of sense Mark, thanks.
And thank you bush for those pics. I don't know why I didn't just have that pic of Marc's bow in front of me the whole time.