Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Hawkdancer on September 04, 2018, 04:46:04 am
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About ready to put finishing touches on the hickory bow. My thought is to not sand the back as there a couple of "character" bumps and scars I'd like to keep. I do want to put a green coloring coat and some designs in black to give it hunting bow flair. I have acrylic paint, and Truoil available. Is a sealing coat necessary, or can I just have fun painting and lettering, and then seal. I plan to do the belly with a charcoal rub. i want a dull or muted finish. I do plan to put the draw #, and length and sign the belly. May not be the prettiest girl at the dance, but she's with me! :BB >:D
Hawkdancer
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Usually, when using acrylic, I would say to put in a base colour and flat it back a little then apply top coat(s). The base colour stops the wood grain showing through the finished colour and makes the top colour deeper - light colours use a white base, mid/dark tones use an orange or red base.
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Jerry, I've never worked with that combination of paint and sealer. You might want to experiment with a scrap piece first. I personally like to seal first. Then scuff with steel wool. Then paint. It helps to keep the paint from bleeding into the wood. I can get finer lines with it sealed first. I also can sometimes wipe paint off if I screw something up and don't like it. Some paints I like to put a coat of spray on sealer first coat after paint. Sometimes if you use tru oil or even a brush on product it smears your paint. Once you have it sealed you can scuff it and put tru oil over the top.
Looking forward to seeing that girl
Bjrogg
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I'd seal it first too. The moisture in the acrylic paint could raise the grain of the hickory. I use shellac but spray satin poly will too. You'll have to wait a day if you use the poly, maybe 30 minutes if you use shellac. If you put a full(not watered down) base coat you probably don't need a sealer first. Tru-Oil is compatible either way you go.
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Seal it for al lthe reasons patB said .plus if you need to make a paint correction you can repair it easier over the sealer than the bare wood.
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I do have a test strip without sealer, (no sealer on hand), but will get either shellac or satin poly to make a comparison test. Have to check for some more scrap pieces, too. Thanks for the help, any other ideas also welcome.
Hawkdancer