Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: backtowood B2W on October 21, 2018, 11:53:54 am
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Hi everyone!
This is my 10th bow, i roughed the green stave out and after 2 weeks i put it above the oven to dry out, maybe it wasn't dry enough when i started to tiller. i have a wood moisture device now...
As it was very short, at least for my standard, i decided to try a hollow limb design paired with a pyramid and stiff handle.
All in all a good decision i just didn't bring the inner limbs, right out of the fades, to bend. i think the HLD was bewaring it from getting chrysalis!
She took a lot of set and stringfollow and i recognised her getting weaker from shot to shot. So it wasn't used much and i decided to try out my second heat treating experiments (the first heat treatment was maple and was almost smoking...)
So i heat treated the limbs and pulled out the set. As i already recognised my not bending areas i tried to tiller it down to 35# again - by trimming the sides as i didn't want to destroy my wonderful heat treatment. Today i think this was the second big mistake i made....
So the lower limb is narrower as the upper and still not working out of the fade. I closed this chapter at 35#, as it was shooting a bit better than before.
At least, and thats why i show this bow, maybe someone gets inspired by the tips and the handle. This was my last one where i cut in an arrow shelf. IMO they look always a bit strange on a self bow so i redesigned the handle from an earlier bow (my first static.......failure), as i liked the ergonomic feel and look a lot.
Thanks for reading, and as i"am a beginner i really appreciate criticism , suggestions , ... so please feel free to reply. thank you!
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handle, 58" is not correct
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tips
Thanks for watching
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Bttw,
just impressive how you screwed that 28 draw out of thar short piece of ash.
Again admiring that fine craftsmanship - outstanding how you craft out all those little, tiny forms and shapes on your bows.
At first sight i saw a glass-bow, which couldn't be as glass is evil on this site >:D ...this handle combined with very straight and symmetrical limbs...
Nothing at all to critisize - but if the arrows group a bit low, check this http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,64406.0.html (http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,64406.0.html)
Cheers
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You certainly have a talent for carving graceful lines and shapes. That handle is beautiful. Something that may help how it shoots.. it might be me lacking a sense of scale but the tips look unnecessarily beefy to me.
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Great lookin bow.yes the tips are a bit heavy but id leave that one be and consider it done.
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simk,halfbow, thanks for the tips!
It looks not really balanced to me, but it shoots with very little handshock, and as the target weight was dismissed I won't do anymore.
Halfbow, my tips are getting slimmer ;) this ones are 3/8 wide and 6/8 thick.
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Nice work! Good looking bow.
Tattoo Dave
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Nice work! Good looking bow
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Simk gave me some yew laminates(thank you!) and shooting his Rowan yewinized Bow - I wanted to give this a try too.
I took this out of COS, and reopened this chapter.
So this is my first laminate bow (ok I did the glue up and laminates twice...) and I am quite happy with the transformation.
I didn't glu in a Perry reflex instead i bent the lams with the heat gun to reflex the tips 2". (Next time I better read first and then down to action...)
So it took 1/2" Set and lost most of the reflex, Stringfollow is another 1/2"
I also didn't draw it further than 26" any more, as I see the limbs working pretty hard. Drawweight is 40#.
I was a bit afraid to give to much bend into the fades as this seems to be the most critical part for the glue.
I maybe overshot my concerns, but it holds together very good.
I shot around 400 arrows by now and this will become my next time shooter. Its not a rocket launcher but arrows are pretty fast and fly straight.
I also like the used look from the old stain, the egg in the handle really pops out....just asking myself which was first...
As this is my first lam bow I'm hoping to see many suggestions, concerns, ....
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60" ntn
39,3#@26"
Water buffalo horn nocks
Bamboo plugs
2compepoxy
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Was curios about the drawchart, seems to be one of my better ones. Maybe I can crono her tomorrow...
10" - 10# + 4#
12 - 14 +3,5
14 - 17,5 +3,2
16 - 20,7 +3,5
18 - 24,2 +3,3
20 - 27.5 +3.3
22 - 30,8 +4,2
24 - 35 +4,3
26 - 39,3
I do this with a analog hanging scale, so it is not 100%
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The draw is smoother than I expected, but for sure you can feel the stringangle at the nocks last 2" of draw.
thanks for looking
BTW
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That is one sexy bow. Damn!
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Nice.
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Great work with the fit of those belly laminations! I know how much of a pain that can be. How does it shoot compared to before the yew?
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Nice bow sir! Thank you for taking the time to photograph and share........
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Nice work, never seen lams done that way, hopefully it will hold together lots of stress in that area.
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Great work with the fit of those belly laminations! I know how much of a pain that can be. How does it shoot compared to before the yew?
I have the draw chart before lams. Doesn't seem to be true as I cannot believe the drop in the last 2". Also the 4# in the beginning won't be correct.
The bow was shooting very poorly had 2" of stringfollow, also the tiller was horrible. Now,as I said this is my next time shooter and not going into COS again.
10" - 4# +4
12" - 8# +3
14" - 11# +4
16" - 15# +3
18" - 18# +3
20" - 21# +3
22" - 25# +4
24" - 28# +4
26" - 32# +3
28" - 35#
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Thank you, guys glad you like it!
No concerns???
Can't believe, this is my first.....don't hesitate to criticize!
Thanks
BTW
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B2W,
Wonderful wood working skills and beautiful bow...Nice bend and balance...You made an excellent comeback on that bow...
Don
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Great upgrade! Like the bend! Your patience and passion for detail once again is adorable. (-S
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Nice work sir. Very nice!
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it looks great!
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Thank you, guys glad you like it!
No concerns???
Can't believe, this is my first.....don't hesitate to criticize!
Thanks
BTW
As I stated in my previous post …… "never seen lams done that way, hopefully it will hold together lots of stress in that area "
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Nice work, never seen lams done that way, hopefully it will hold together lots of stress in that area.
Lams glued up above the fades I've seen on fg bows.
My first glue up failed exactly there. The step in the fade was just about 2 mm, also I used my not so good Epoxy( though it will do its job with a bigger surface than just tip overlay size).
My second attempt I left the yew lam the whole thickness in the fade - so the step became much bigger and the curve much lower.
The step is angled so the lam won't lift.
The lams are entering at the same growrhring so forces will work towards on the same layer.
I used the best glue this time!!!
When I glued up I pushed the lams towards the handle, so there should be wood on wood with very little glue in between.
And at last I made this glued in bamboo dowels.
I think key is to have zero movement in the glue line in the fades, as soon it starts moving there it's over and it starts to delay.
I have glued together so many things in school, job, and at home, so my experience and guts tells me this will stay together forever.
I've it won't I will update
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Thank you guys I appreciate your replies
BTW
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Some great experimenting and perseverance and skill.
That what I love to see.
Del
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Thanks Del! (Btw, in 50 years I will think different about your lately elder artwork ;D >:D)
Got some more numbers about the bow:
Mass dropped from 474g to 419g.
Made her a proper string (8 strand FF) and crono today with 10 gr per # arrow.
Got a range from 164 to 167 fps with 26" draw.
I'm not so familiar with crono results ( doing more the draw/weight chart thing), so do you think my conclusion was right; " being pretty fast, but not a speed devil" ???
Thank you for checking out for me,
Maybe you can give me a formula for valuing performance via fps.
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I believe that unless you are using a shooting machine and the chrono you won't know for sure. For me (cause I'm such a lousy archer) the machine found another 10-15(approx)fps. Poor release and not actually pulling to the DL you think you are will cause your speed to be down. The nice thing is that you can be pretty sure that you bow is actually as fast or faster than your manual test. There are a few guys that can beat a machine but not many. When I use my machine I can get maybe 10 shots that are exactly the same speed. If it does change it's by 1 fps. That gives me a lot of confidence in the accuracy.
I think 165@26" is pretty good. Another 2" of draw and you will be knocking on the "Speed Devils" door.
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Thanks DC for reply.
I did the crono at the nearby shooting range. They don't have a shooting machine.
But a buddy told me when I exactly draw the 26" and than hold for a second or so and release.
With a bad release I got 162.
For sure a shooting machine will give you a consistent result and so better comparable to other bows.
I think I remember this thumb by eye:
100+#= ok bow
100+#+10=good bow
100+#+20=very good bow
100+#+30=excellent bow
100+#+40=speed devil
Is this any good to work with?
Thanks martin
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Thanks DC for reply.
I did the crono at the nearby shooting range. They don't have a shooting machine.
But a buddy told me when I exactly draw the 26" and than hold for a second or so and release.
With a bad release I got 162.
For sure a shooting machine will give you a consistent result and so better comparable to other bows.
I think I remember this thumb by eye:
100+#= ok bow
100+#+10=good bow
100+#+20=very good bow
100+#+30=excellent bow
100+#+40=speed devil
Is this any good to work with?
Thanks martin
I might be tempted to push them up another 10. Speed devil 100+#+50 but that's all semantics.