Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Sidewinder on January 03, 2019, 06:18:44 pm
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Any body use it? pros and cons.
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I use a mix of linseed oil, bee,s wax,and turpintine, boiled and cooled that makes a good water proof finish on self bows.
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Sidewinder -
Not recommended it will gum up & craves the presence of water . . . on the other hand
“Juice”
(. . . I developed “Juice” in 1969 & it hasn’t failed once . . . rain or shine . . . but not good for continuing immersion of saltwater)
- 1/4 Boiled Linseed Oil
- 1/2 Raw Tung Oil
- 1/4 GumTurpentine (NOT mineral spirits)
- 2 to 3 ounces of Bees Wax
Proportions may very according 1.) experience & 2.) use to what it is applied to . . .
regards,
Scyth
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I've experimented with making my own concoction of 'tung oil'. I mix approximately 3 parts polyurethane, 2 parts mineral spirits (or turpentine) and 1 part boiled linseed oil. Apply several light coats with a rag or foam brush. Don't use raw linseed oil, it won't completely dry.
I see Scyth posted while I was typing. I'll have to try this one.
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Thanks for the feedback guys. I've previously used Tru oil or just bear grease and I'm looking for something with a hand rubbed finish that doesn't shine too much but brings out the luster of the bow. Does your juice achieve that?
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I've been using Watco Danish Oil on several walnut and cherry projects. Takes lots of coats, like Tru-oil, but gives a beautiful lustrous finish that is not shiny.
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I used to wipe down a newly sanded bow with turpentine then hand rub in boiled linseed oil before adding Tru-Oil. But now I just go straight to Tru-Oil.
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EXTREMELY IMPORTANT FOR ANYONE OIL BASED FINISHED :
Oil based finished . . . especially rub-on . . . are auto-inflammatory when soaked in rags or paper towels or grass or bark or leaves ! ! !
In other words . . . THEY CATCH FIRE . . .
Take the rags and put them in a bucket full of water and hang them outside on string individually to dry out thoroughly.
regards,
Scyth
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I've used boiled linseed oil on yew bows to bring out a nicer, warmer, slightly antiqued color, let it dry, rub it out, then spray with Thunderbird.
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Scyth, seems like paranoid bs, but 2x in my life I've found the remenints of charred rags after a project. Spontaneous combustion.
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. . . I’ve been through three major fires all caused by oil soaked rags or paper towels . . .
1.) a yacht company building 120’-140’ motoryachts . . . 330 people put out of work . .
2.) a cabinet shop building high end reproduction . . . 90 people put out of work . .
3.) another yacht company building 65’-85’motoryachts . . . 190 people put out of work . .
This clip explain it from the homeowner perspective:
https://youtu.be/9yq6VW-c2Ts
regards,
Scyth
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Is that for all oil based finishes? I knew about boiled linseed, didnt know it was true for any of the others.
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Stuckinthemud -
. . . every one, whether in combination or alone . . . the ignition may vary but the result is still the same.
I’ll add to the list : a mixture of fiberglass resin/acetone does the same thing . . .
regards,
Scyth
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Thanks for sharing your experience Scyth. I try to be especially cautious with linseed oil. When I'm done with an oily rag it goes into an empty paint can full of water and the lid tapped back on, then set out for the trash pickup.
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If you hang them like washing clothes the heat dissipates before it builds up. If you do that it's double safe'
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Boiled linseed oil by itself isn't a good moisture barrier. Jay Massey used to use French Polish, a mixture of linseed oil and shellac which seemed to serve him well when he hunted wet Alaska but then developed Massey finish, epoxy thinned with spirits of some sort. Tru-Oil is a linseed oil product with other additives. It has worked well for me for many years on bows, arrows and gun stocks it's original intended purpose.